Catch of the day at Kisume in Flinders Lane

KISUME is a Japanese restaurant that’s unmistakably Melbourne but with added New York sass. It’s three levels of Flinders Lane restaurant into which restaurateur Chris Lucas has distilled decades of experience.

The kingfish caterpillar roll.

NOT everyone is going to like Kisume, restaurateur Chris Lucas’ latest offering.

There will be those taken aback by the defiantly – even wilfully – provocative art adorning the walls, those outraged at a $55 glass of wine and many who will suffer, perhaps terminally, from bill shock.

But I do. A lot. Kisume is a Japanese restaurant that’s unmistakably Melbourne but with added New York sass. It’s three levels of Flinders Lane restaurant into which Lucas has artfully distilled decades of experience, and shows that while he’s been busy redefining what casual dining means in our city with Chin Chin, Hawker Hall, et al, these past years, he’s kept an eye on the long game of reclaiming the pointy end of the market, too.

While set up as a multifunction polis – part chablis bar, sushi counter, restaurant, private dining and 12-seat, $175-a-head omakase – Kisume is a more intimate, cohesive and antipodean offering than that might suggest.

CHEF’S GUIDE TO RICHMOND

The ground floor – rather than the bustling basement with open hot kitchen – is the pick of the bunch, where blood-red tiled walls bookend a space in which the quietly serene sushi counter provides the spotlit action. Comfortable booths for two sit opposite, and a wealth of clever design features keeps the noise from overwhelming.

Arresting pops of colour are provided by a series of photographs by Melbourne-born artist Polly Borland, providing both visual pleasure and parlour game for the observant (guess who?).

Lucas has gone on a global hiring spree to man his ship: local Shaun Presland (ex-Sake) is joined by South Korean sushi master KS Moon, with Jonathan Ross (Eleven Madison Park) joining Philip Rich on drinks duty.

The daily date-stamped menu has a roll call of local fish – from Corner Inlet flathead to new season Bluefin from Port Lincoln – that’s transformed into an array of rolls, sushi and sashimi.

A feature box of tuna ($29.50) provides an easy overview of knife and rice skills – the elegant simplicity of a draped finger of tuna over vinegared rice bolstered by a nicely spicy mix on a cucumber round and chopped toro on black-sesame-flecked rice and exceptional sashimi.

Art on a plate; the hazlenut dacquoise.

While there’s no denying the sublime pleasure of the palest of pink piece of o-toro sushi– that most prized piece of tuna belly – or the creamy brininess of sea urchin wrapped in seaweed, these mouthfuls at $16.50 and $12.50 respectively will start sending your bill north quickly. It makes the 12-piece omakase (chef’s selection) served at the counter a good option at $88 a head, while the generous, dramatically presented deluxe box, filled with more than 40 pieces covering off all the hits, makes real sense for two at $135.

BENNY’S BURGERS OPENS IN RICHMOND

Line-caught red snapper is more ceviche than advertised sashimi, swimming as it does in a bright passionfruit dressing. The acidic sweetness of the fruit comes partnered with a dancing aji amarillo heat, both of which don’t overpower the excellent fish ($23.50), while lightly torched kingfish giving it a subtle smokiness is countered by the bracing pop of acid from finger lime in six pieces of rice “caterpillar” roll ($17.50).

An equally extensive menu is offered from the hot kitchen downstairs and includes the city’s best kakiage. The mixed bits of tempura – whiting, zucchini, corn, mushroom and more – come as a leaning tower of wispily battered, perfectly cooked crunch. Flavoured salts – bottarga, strawberry gum – and bonito miso add layered seasoning with class ($23.50).

And while it took a long time to make it to our table, the grade 9 David Blackmore wagyu was the best piece of beef I’ve eaten in memory. The hallmark melting creaminess of the meat is augmented by a dusting of fresh horseradish, fresh local wasabi and – interestingly – a few pearls of salmon roe atop. It’s stunning ($66).

DOCKLANDS’ WOODSHED IS REBORN

Desserts, too, are excellent. The hazelnut dacquoise is a plum-sized orb that hides chocolate mousse filled with a Frangelico cream ($18.50), while pineapple in many guises – pannacotta, sorbet, torched and dehydrated fruit – is equally pretty and perfectly refreshing ($17.50)

Service is well drilled with admirable menu knowledge, and the wines on offer, covetable.

There’s no greater example of 103 quarters of economic growth than the Winewall upstairs – a glorious collection of chablis, riesling and pinot that comes at a price – though for mere mortals the wine on a tap – a Henty riesling, a Mornington pinot – are perfectly lovely.

My only gripe, for this is no cheap outing, is the flimsy paper napkins.

(I know, I bore myself, too, but the standard you walk past is the standard you accept.)

Clever, innovative, thoughtful and fun — plus you can book! — Kisume is another win for Melbourne’s Mister Midas.

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The ground floor dining room at Kisume. Picture: ANDREW TAUBER

Kisume

175 Flinders Lane, Melbourne

Ph: 9671 4444

kisume.com.au

Open: daily from noon

Go to dish: wagyu

Rating: 15.5/20