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Camberwell cafe Hibiki a masterclass in jazzed-up Japanese-style brunch and lunch

Is it possible to push the envelope yet play it safe? This Camberwell cafe manages both, with a menu fusing Japanese cuisine with Melbourne’s breakfast and lunch faves.

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Hibiki, Camberwell Kinoko Collection (mushroom dish) Picture: Reiji Honour
Hibiki, Camberwell Kinoko Collection (mushroom dish) Picture: Reiji Honour

Is it possible to push the envelope yet play it safe? Camberwell cafe Hibiki manages both feats with a menu fusing Japanese cuisine to Melbourne’s breakfast and lunch faves.

Dishes are interestingly named, creatively constructed and have a multitude of ingredients that are plated with flair.

Owner Reiji Honour co-owned Burwood cafe Dosage and Box Hill’s Second Wife before opening Hibiki last year on a section of Toorak Rd he says was hungry for dining options.

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Dishes are inspired by his Japanese heritage, such as the fluffy, big-in-Japan milk bread that’s cut as thick as a brick and the okonomiyaki pancakes made to his mum’s recipe.

Honour will soon open the venue on Friday and Saturday nights under the Hibiki Kuro banner, with an izakaya-style set-up serving share plates and Japanese whisky to sate ’til late.

A feast of mushrooms awaits in Hibiki’s Kinoko Collection dish. Picture: Hibiki
A feast of mushrooms awaits in Hibiki’s Kinoko Collection dish. Picture: Hibiki

FOOD

Weaving soft strips of cabbage and spring onion through its batter, the tanned okonomiyaki ($22) provides a delicious pontoon for a poached egg and your choice of salmon
or bacon. Even more layers of umami come via Bulldog (barbecue) sauce, kewpie mayo, freeze-dried seaweed and bonito flakes.

Kinoko Collection ($18, pictured) is a riot of textures using different types of mushroom. Enoki is given the tempura treatment to create a crunchy fan-like garnish, while oysters and shiitakes are sliced and sauteed in a warming soy butter before landing with a poached egg and crisped kale and saltbush leaves on toast.

Dried cranberries bring a sweet chew, while a fermented mushroom mousse can be used as a funky spread. This is a funghi-lover’s dream.

Lunch highlights include a burger ($20) of panko prawns, dill tartare and cabbage, and organic soba noodles ($16) with vegies and chilli.

Popcorn karaage chicken ($11), tempura broccoli with curried mayo ($10) and lotus root chips ($8) give good snacks, while a cool kids’ menu includes melted cheese ($6) and pizza toast ($9) on that doorstopper milk toast from Brioche by Phillip.

Hibiki’s ononomiyaki pancakes with bacon, made to the owner’s mother’s recipe. Picture: Hibiki
Hibiki’s ononomiyaki pancakes with bacon, made to the owner’s mother’s recipe. Picture: Hibiki


DRINK

Hibiki is devoted to coffee. Milk-based drops are from Industry Beans, while filter blends are imported from a specialist roaster in Japan. Hot drinks are served in covetable ceramic cups but cold drinks land with reusable metal straws.

VICE

The young wait staff are friendly, on the ball and able to answer any menu queries.

X FACTOR

This 70-seater’s simple and fresh interior features timber, polished concrete and a small greenhouse of ivy, with an umbrella-shaded, dog-friendly back courtyard.

Most of the art on the walls is for sale, and in keeping with the Hibiki name, which means sound or echo in Japanese, the venue rocks its own Spotify playlists of funk, house and disco tunes.

Beats and eats await at Hibiki in Camberwell, which will soon be open on Friday and Saturday nights. Picture: Hibiki
Beats and eats await at Hibiki in Camberwell, which will soon be open on Friday and Saturday nights. Picture: Hibiki

BANG FOR YOUR BUCK

Fine value, given the number of ingredients in each dish and their careful crafting.

VERDICT

Make tracks to Hibiki for cool beats and cheffy eats that venture beyond the cafe standard.

HIBIKI

1161 Toorak Rd, Camberwell

9995 3815

hibikimelbourne.com

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Original URL: https://www.heraldsun.com.au/lifestyle/delicious-100/camberwell-cafe-hibiki-a-masterclass-in-jazzedup-japanesestyle-brunch-and-lunch/news-story/e17e8f9f6284756413a8c5ae640ba84e