Brae

Dan Hunter’s little farmhouse in Birregurra might increasingly cater to gastro-tourists from near and far but this is no po-faced, pinky-up affair

Iced oyster. Picture: Colin Page

4285 Cape Otway Rd, Birregurra

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braerestaurant.com

Eating with your fingers is a primal pleasure at the best of times, but there’s something perfectly perverse about doing so at one of the best restaurants in Australia.

Dan Hunter’s little farmhouse in Birregurra might increasingly cater to gastro-tourists from near and far but this is no po-faced, pinky-up affair: with music as carefully curated as the art on the walls, it’s the perfect synergy of city cool and country charm.

The connection to the almost ten hectares of Otways hinterland only grows stronger – organic wheat for the famous sourdough is now grown on site – while a spirit of innovation and adventure informs the experience such that no two meals are ever the same.

The connection to the land at Brae is ever-stronger. Picture Colin Page

The many-course menu delivers the expected signatures – the apple and parsnip dessert, the truly sublime iced oyster – but it continually explores new territory, making a return visit as exciting a prospect as that of the first-timer.

Memorable moments abound, whether a crisp Jerusalem artichoke shell filled with Southern rock lobster, sublime abalone with pork jowl skewered over coals, or the simple pleasure of a patch of garden herbs and flowers dressed with sharp Shaw River pecorino.

A knockout beetroot tartare topped with mirin-soaked brook trout roe is a one-bite burst of wonder, while an ice-cream Anzac biscuit to end is a very adult memory of childhood.

It’s exact, artful cooking that’s as much a pleasure to eat as it is to drink in.

Wessex saddleback pork with soured onions. Picture: Colin Page

The wine list is a terrific celebration of Victoria that, while keeping cellar space for old masters, has considered every budget such that there’s excellent drinking for all.

The playful non-booze pairing is equally thoughtful.

The service, while forever perfectly poised and precise, has a new-found freedom to veer off script, making the whole experience a singular joy.

So pick up that glossy, smoky Barongarook pork rib and gnaw it dry, all the while revelling in the fact that not only is Brae one of Australia’s very best, it’s also a lot of fun.

Must-eat: Barongarook pork

Cuisine: Contemporary

Chef: Dan Hunter

Price: $$$$$

Bookings: Yes

Open: Dinner Thurs and Sat; lunch Fri-Mon

BYO: No

Instagram: @braerestaurant