Anchovy

If the pre-meal snacks – peanuts loaded with crispy bits of chilli, kaffir lime and galangal – at Anchovy don’t have you at hello, the rest of Thi Le’s menu soon will.

Durian and white chocolate parfait dessert, lemon sorbet, freeze-dried raspberry and longan.

338 Bridge Rd, Richmond

[phone]

anchovy.net.au

If the pre-meal snacks – peanuts loaded with crispy bits of chilli, kaffir lime and galangal – don’t have you at hello, the rest of Thi Le’s menu soon will.

A thoroughly modern Melbourne mix of Asian cuisines, dishes here are bang-the-table good.

Take the row of squeaky-fresh raw scallops and tangy persimmon slices anointed with caviar pops and garlic hits, or the wagyu carpaccio, slices so meltingly tender concealing a leek and beansprout salad. Every flavour works.

Three rivers lamb neck with milk buns and daikon. Picture Rebecca Michael.

Mains? Choose your protein.

Perhaps the grilled Millbrook free-range pork in a lemongrass-heady turmeric oil the colour of sunshine.

Then order the “herb garden” of leaves, pickles and condiments, and abandon cutlery to roll DIY wraps.

Seal the deal with the house-made roti, oiled and beautifully blistered.

Even the famously stinky fruit, durian, has been tamed in a parfait with white chocolate to give a funky finishing note to a standout dessert.

With an astute knowledge of dishes, ingredients, origins and technique, service shows a front of house highly attuned with the kitchen, just as the worldly wine list compliments the Asian-leaning fare.

The pared-back dining room lets the food and service shine, and the fact that it’s so fabulously priced is a bonus. You’ll be back for more once this Anchovy hooks you.

Chef: Thi Le

Price: $$

Open: Lunch Thu-Sat 12-2.30; Dinner Wed-Thu 5.30-9.30pm, Fri-Sat 5.30-10pm

Go-to dish: Durian & white chocolate parfait

Instagram: @anchovy338