I’m no skier but I go weak at the knees over snowdrifts observed from a cosy corner of a Japanese café. I long for the flame-coloured leaves of autumn and misty mountain mornings, but am not averse to summer’s rooftop beer gardens and spectacular parade of night-time festivals. I also prefer the languid theatre of late-spring flowers over an explosive burst of cherry blossom. But that’s just me.

Japan is truly a year-round destination and deciding when and where to go can be as fraught as a child selecting a single sweet from a weighty bag of mixed favourites. A phenomenal range of experiences awaits across the country’s 47 prefectures, so whether planning your first or umpteenth trip, confusion is inevitable. No Japan adventure is ever long enough, but this taste of the different seasons’ offerings is a path to discovering an ideal time and place for you.

WINTER

Crossing from one year’s end into the start of the new, winter is a peaceful time of reflection and gentle celebration. Chilly blue-sky days, perfect for long strolls with atmospheric breaks in bookstores or crafting workshops, give way to colder nights when dining on winter seafoods is a highlight. Alpine areas offer a swag of snow sports alongside restorative onsen, new-season’s sake and fragrant, budding plum blossoms.

December: Skiing in Gujo, Gifu Prefecture

A cycle of popularity and promotion feeds overcrowded ski areas such as Hokkaido and Nagano, and the many Aussie accents you hear can make it feel like you never left home. Charming Gujo is a refreshing alternative, its 10 family-friendly resorts equipped with slopes for beginners to advanced from December to March. Dynaland, the largest with 18 runs, offers a family snow play area and indoor playground. Gujo Hachiman’s handsome townscape and hands-on cultural activities have long appealed to locals who’ve successfully managed to retain the secret... so far.

TIP: Stay at Fairfield by Marriott, linked to a modern michi-no-eki (road station) featuring local delicacies to eat in or enjoy in your room.

January: First cherry blossoms, Okinawa

Most of the country enjoys peak sakura in late March and early April but southern Okinawa welcomes Japan’s first cherry blossoms in mid-January, when the north is still under snow. The island’s revelry is utterly laid-back compared with the cherry crush of other regions and it’s a solution for those who can’t decide between ski and island holidays. Après-ski never looked so good.

TIP: With 20,000 cherry trees, hanami (flower viewing) at Nago City’s blossom festival is a must. Views from Nago Castle’s ruins stretch to the shoreline.

February: Ice carving, Asahikawa, Hokkaido

Running alongside Sapporo’s famous snow festival in early February each year is regional Asahikawa city’s intimate alternative. A temporary landscape of 50 enormous ice sculptures, snow slides and entertainments line the main street of Heiwa Dori, 90 minutes north of Sapporo by train. Warm up in the evenings with izakaya-hopping, a popular local pastime, in the inviting laneways of Furarito and Paris Gai. 

TIP: Groovy Omo7 Asahikawa Hotel, one block away from the action, employs fun-seeking “Omo Rangers” for guided access to true local joints.

SPRING

Crisp, early-spring days mark the beginning of renewed life, and excitement over outdoor activities increases. Buds, edible and ornamental, fuel conversation, inspiring culinary and scenic endeavours. Temperatures and landscapes are ripe for hiking, yet evenings are still cool enough to rug up. Late-spring greenery prepares shade for summer and blossoms fill parks and gardens with colour and admirers.

March: Tosa no Okyaku (Sake Party), Kochi, Shikoku

This friendly city in eastern Shikoku doesn’t take itself too seriously, except when it comes to social gatherings. Surrounded by 18 top-shelf sake breweries, drinking and accompanying food is a hot agenda topic leading up to March’s Tosa no Okyaku festival. Effusive Kochi-ites burst into song and dance during the week-long picnic-takeover of the town – sawachi (share plates brimming with regional dishes), free-flowing sake and humorous entertainment at its core. Everyone’s invited to party. 

TIP: If you miss this event, head to hawker-style Hiromi Market to eat, drink and be merry seven days a week. 

April: Sanno Matsuri (Spring Festival), Takayama

Fine-weathered April draws huge crowds, so why not get amongst it at a joyful spring festival (matsuri) in the postcard-perfect alpine village of Takayama, 3.5 hours from Kyoto by train? This matsuri is ranked as one of the country’s most beautiful, honouring 12th-century Hie Shrine’s dedication to family safety, with 12 intricately handcrafted floats and marionettes paraded through the old town each evening. The dreamy procession also showcases traditional costume and ancient court music. 

TIP: Book an old-style ryokan (inn) for truly authentic hospitality, delicious cuisine, onsen and the chance to roam freely when the throng subsides.

May: Gardens, Kyoto

After early May’s frenetic Golden Week holiday, crowded Kyoto experiences a short reprieve. At this time it’s possible to meander the fascinating city’s many idyllic gardens in peace, as it should be. There’s no better way to soak up Kyoto’s warm, sublimely long, late spring days than to experience the tag-team flowering of elegant irises and hydrangeas, and even water lilies as May slides into summer.

TIP: Book a guided exploration of Kyoto’s best gardens with Kyoto Garden Experience. 

SUMMER

Rain announces the start of summer in June, the perfect month for making the most of Japan’s abundance of brilliant (and air-conditioned) indoor arts and cultural facilities. By July, cities are hot and sticky, with humidity peaking in August, prompting a shift towards beaches, lakes and forest-deep rivers to cool off. Others choose to camp or hike in more temperate northern and alpine zones. Socialising ramps up the evenings, aided by the seasonal influx of concerts, festivals, fireworks and beer garden pop-ups.

June: Kabuki Theatre, Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto

The rainy season won’t bother outdoorsy types, but for others it’s an excuse to indulge in the arts. Kabuki, a 400-year-old dramatic form of storytelling through traditional dance and music is still reasonably unknown outside Japan. Translating as “strong dance and skill”, kabuki is performed by an all-male troupe wearing elaborate costumes and makeup. The season kicks off in June with month-long programs at Japan’s three eminent kabuki theatres: Tokyo’s Kabukiza, Osaka’s Shochikuza and Kyoto’s Minamiza.

TIP: Try before you buy by streaming Kabuki on Demand. 

July: Beaches, Izu Peninsula

Two hours by train from Tokyo, the rugged paradise of Izu Peninsula is a convenient escape from the heat. Dotted along 50km of spade-shaped coastline, pristine white-sand beaches serve a mix of calm, clear snorkelling waters and surf waves. Sand-skiing and caving will suit adventurers, while palm-shaded food stalls cater to the drop-and-flop set. It’s also a popular onsen destination in summer for its natural hot springs, but you’ll need to book well ahead. 

TIP: Book a luxurious villa at Izu-Abba Resort and hire a car for accessing remote beaches and scenic lookouts (Mount Fuji, ahoy!).

August: Nebuta Matsuri Festival, Aomori

Highlights of peak heat’s surge in evening festivals include the majestic and colourful handcrafted paper nebuta, giant illuminated floats depicting gods and mythical creatures which take to the streets of Aomori nightly from August 2-7. Folk music and chanting sets the rhythm for a buoyant dance procession which anyone can join (if you hire the costume). Infectious and magnificent.

TIP: Nebuta and their construction can be seen year-round at the interactive Nebuta Museum Wa-Rasse.

AUTUMN

Humidity starts to wane, but the heat lingers into October, with occasional typhoons pointing towards a few indoor days. By early November, a notable chill signals the turning of the leaves, which remain persistent into December, forming a divine patchwork of colour revered countrywide. Crisp, sunny autumn is wonderful for wandering, absorbing the energy of change before winter arrives.

September: Grand Sumo Tournament, Tokyo

Of Japan’s six 15-day sumo tournaments each year, three take place in Tokyo, the last of which, the Honbasho or Grand Tournament, determines rankings for November’s grand finale in Fukuoka. Tokyo’s National Sumo Arena and stables are in historic Ryogoku, a quaint precinct to wander in with the chance to bump into wrestlers during time-outs. At Tokyo’s Asakusa Sumo Club, you can watch retired sumo demonstrate the sport while you dine. 

TIP: Be prepared to jump on sumo tickets a month or even two before the event. 

October: Cycling Shimanami Kaido, Setouchi

October is considered the most beautiful time to cycle the spectacular Shimanami Kaido expressway route which traverses the Seto Inland Sea via a chain of bridges and tiny picturesque islands. Running between Hiroshima’s Onomichi and Ehime’s Imabari cities, late October’s Cycling Shimanami event is not a race but a “meet” of cycling enthusiasts; you pedal at your own pace, choosing from eight courses, and can stop and stay along the way. 

TIP: Take a six-day guided cycling tour, including more of blissful Shikoku, with Hidden Japan Travel. 

November: Autumn leaves, Fukuoka

Sophisticated Fukuoka is a compact seaside city resting against a backdrop of densely forested mountains. During mid- to late November’s peak koyo (autumn colours) there’s leaf peeping aplenty minus the crowds of larger cities, making it a more relaxing proposition. Wander through the golden glow of Keyaki-dori’s Zelkova tree tunnel, explore sprawling Ohori Park, or seek out the sculptured gardens of Yusen-tei. Better yet, celebrate the divine maple at Kamado Shrine’s Momiji (maple) festival and market, sampling seasonal sweets. 

TIP: Have lunch on board the Rail Kitchen Chikugo to view Fukuoka’s autumnal landscape from the comfort of your table.

See also: 

11 epic adventures you can only have in Japan

I've been to 50 countries, nothing prepared me for Japan

8 sides of Japan most people never see