48 hours in northern Tasmania: The ultimate itinerary
Move over Hobart, some of Tasmania's best experiences are found in the north, from meeting growers and makers to nature at its finest.
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Tasmania’s incredible food industry has had many travellers, Australian and otherwise, chin-wagging for years but you don’t have to head to Hobart’s finest restaurants or the fishing villages of the east coast to indulge in its top-notch produce.
In the north, where the wild landscape is as alluring as the locals are gracious, you’ll find some of the best farms in Tasmania. This is where you come to bookend an adventure with the finest pastries, preserves, and pizzas in the state.
DAY ONE: Morning
Arrive in Tasmania on an early-morning flight so you can enjoy breakfast at one of Launceston’s cool cafés. At Bread + Butter, you’ll be dining with a steady stream of locals grabbing coffee and sourdough. The house-made crumpets with Vegemite are a winner, along with the buttery pastries and traditional European gingerbread. You can also pick up a fine selection of edible goods, including caffe latte spread.
Hit Tasmania’s Tasting Trail, a road-trip route started by some of the region’s biggest growers and producers to encourage travellers to detour off the highways. There are currently 42 agribusinesses on the trail, and the first stop is Hazelbrae Hazelnuts in Hagley.
An affable couple, owners Christie McLeod and Mick Delphin pour their soul into their 5000-tree orchard, and you can opt for a self-guided tour of the property or spend $10 for a pick-your-own hazelnut experience during April school holidays. If you’re travelling with kids, leave time for the giant timber hazelnuts and John Deer tractor lookalike in the playground, made from recycled materials.
Lunchtime
One of the prettiest lunch spots in Tassie’s north has to be Meander Valley Vineyard outside Deloraine. Dine among vibrant billy buttons on a warm day, or pull up a chair inside the new cellar door dining room. Lunch consists of wood-fired pizzas in a large variety of flavours. My picks of toppings are blue cheese with red wine-poached pears and prosciutto; and the pretty pink ginseng, which gives you a zing with every bite. Two hectares grow pinot gris, chardonnay, pinot noir and baco noir (a French-American hybrid) grapes.
Afternoon
Moments down the road is The Truffle Farm, founded by Australia’s truffle pioneers, the Terry family. Shrouded by towering trees, the tasting shed gives tiny cabin vibes. Inside you can try honey, mustard, olive oil and ice-cream infused with truffle. This is where you’ll likely meet second-generation truffle farmer Anna Terry, who started giving impromptu tours of her parents’ property when she was 13. More than a decade later, she still gives tours with her truffle-sniffing dogs, and you can join one during the 10-month harvest of the summer and winter truffles (December-September). You can watch the dogs in training during the off-season.
Early evening
Check in to Discovery Parks Cradle Mountain on a reserve within five minutes’ drive of Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park. You’ll want to stay in one of the new high-end mountain cabins that are among the most sophisticated accommodation you’ll find in an Australian campground. This is resort living in a holiday park setting, and upon entering your cabin you can expect to discover a collection of Tasmanian cheese, sparkling wine and fine chocolates. Factor in downtime so you can chill on the king bed, lounge or veranda with forest views, a glass of bubbles in hand. If you’re there when the weather dips, switch on the gas fireplace and heated flooring.
After a big travel day, you’ll want to make the most of your cabin, so instead of going out for dinner, grab Tasmanian-grown and made produce from Discovery Parks’ reception-store. It’s well-stocked with Ashgrove cheese and milk, deli meats, fresh fruit and veg, sausages and steaks, and a great selection of non-alcoholic and alcoholic drinks, such as Willie Smith’s apple cider and McHenry Brewery ales.
If you feel like cooking a meal but don’t want to mess up your cabin kitchenette, the park has impressive camp kitchens, with conventional ovens and pizza ovens, fireplaces, and picnic tables.
DAY TWO: Morning
A visit to Cradle Mountain doesn’t have to involve hiking the famous 80km Overland Track (you’ll need five to six days for that). Instead, rise early to trek Dove Lake Circuit, which will take two to three hours. The route is a mix of gravel and timber paths that weave past Tasmanian waratahs, ancient billy pines, and deciduous fagus trees close to the water’s edge. The walk is easy to do on your own and you can stop as often as you like for the views.
Then make the most of your time at Cradle Mountain by exploring another national park trail. There are plenty to choose from and one of the prettiest is the Waterfalls Walk to Pencil Pine Falls, with its narrow boardwalk over a mossy forest floor. It takes about 30 minutes and leads you to two waterfalls.
Afternoon
After all that hiking, you’ll want to refuel on some of the hearty pub grub at Tavern Bar & Bistro at Cradle Mountain Lodge. It’s a popular place to enjoy a schnitzel, burger, ribs or pizza. Afterwards, play a game of pool, or relax by the fireplace.
Before returning to Discovery Parks, stop by Cradle Mountain Shop where you will find edible Tassie-made souvenirs such as chocolate-coated honeycomb, lavender shortbread, relishes, jams and honey, and liqueurs with unique flavours such as rocky road. There is also a beautiful selection of homewares, jewellery and art, many with wombat, Tassie devil and possum motifs.
Evening
After soaking in the deep bath in your Discovery Parks cabin, dress up for a meal at the region’s fine-dining Hellyers Restaurant. Located at Cradle Mountain Wilderness Village and boasting spectacular views of the landscape and mountain, Hellyers is warm and inviting, with a lounge and fireplace adjacent to the main dining room. The à la carte menu is sophisticated and belly warming, with lamb shank, rib-eye and roasted cauliflower making lovely accompaniments to the crisp evening air outside.
The writer was a guest of Discovery Parks and Tourism Tasmania.
How to fly to northern Tasmania
Jetstar flies direct to Launceston from Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne. Launceston Airport is a 15-minute drive from downtown, and there are several hire car companies available.
Where to stay
Discovery Parks Cradle Mountain is perfectly positioned close to Cradle Mountain Visitor Centre, where you park your car and catch a shuttle into the national park for $15 a person. Accommodation, includes new high-end mountain cabins with raked ceilings, heated flooring and gas fireplaces.
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Originally published as 48 hours in northern Tasmania: The ultimate itinerary