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Cafe culture softening the edges of Melbourne’s ‘wild west’

LIKE it or love it the Footscray of old, as diverse as it was, is melting into an even tastier mix as the younger set moves in.

Bronte Gale enjoys a quality coffee at Rudimentary, which has developed a loyal customer base after two years in Footscray. Picture: David Crosling
Bronte Gale enjoys a quality coffee at Rudimentary, which has developed a loyal customer base after two years in Footscray. Picture: David Crosling

TIMES are a changing in the suburb known for battlers, banh mi and the Bulldogs.

Footscray’s reputation has evolved from the “wild west” to a multicultural hub with restaurants, bars and trendy cafes.

The area’s rapid transformation has been hailed as a positive for residents and shop owners but recent attacks against new businesses show some aren’t happy with the change.

HAVE YOUR SAY ON THE CHANGING FACE OF FOOTSCRAY BELOW

Over Christmas and New Year at least three businesses were attacked by vandals.

Popular burger bar 8bit in Droop St had windows smashed twice in one week and had graffiti with “f--- off hipster scum” scrawled on the door.

RELATED: COMMUNITY OUTRAGED AT ‘HIPSTER SCUM’ ATTACKS ON FOOTSCRAY BUSINESSES

Rapid gentrification and change over in an area could be a “double-edged sword” for residents according to a property expert.

University of Melbourne’s expert Dr Andy Krause said while areas could be revitalised by new people moving in and a drop in crime rates, existing residents could struggle to adjust to the changes in their community.

“That’s the tricky thing, it can benefit the locals but also may not,” he said.

Despite this property prices are booming and more businesses are keen to open their doors in the revitalised area.

RELATED: FOOTSCRAY SUBURB PROFILE

The owner of Bar Josephine, opening soon in Barkly St, wasn’t deterred by the attacks on nearby businesses.

Aaron Donato said he lived locally and was drawn to Footscray because of it’s character.

Jackson Maddocks with customers at Rudimentary. Picture: David Crosling
Jackson Maddocks with customers at Rudimentary. Picture: David Crosling
Aaron Donato at Bar Josephine, opening soon. Picture: David Crosling
Aaron Donato at Bar Josephine, opening soon. Picture: David Crosling

“This area has been criminally untapped for years and it’s such an interesting area with a great mix of people and character,” he said.

The former bar manager said he saw the potential to open the area’s first craft beer bar and said he had been met with open arms from nearby shops and other bars.

There would always be some people who resisted change or felt the need to vandalise, he said.

“We’re not trying to push anyone out, (but) if a business isn’t sustainable or it’s customer base is no longer there then it’s not going to survive,” he said.

Several store fronts have been boarded up on the bustling strip including the highly regarded Lidia’s Wigs which closed in December after 30 years.

The long term shop will not be vacant for long however with a new lease and an application for a bar being put forward.

Business owner and the president of the Footscray Asian Business Association Wing La said changes to the area were a positive.

“Change is inevitable ... the reality is if people want to stay the businesses will adapt and it is just the minority who won’t,” Mr La said.

He said Footscray was “unique” and had a lot to offer shoppers with a mix of culture and shopping that appealed to all budgets.

Back Alley Sally's in Yewers St is another hidden gem in Footscray. Picture: Nicole Cleary
Back Alley Sally's in Yewers St is another hidden gem in Footscray. Picture: Nicole Cleary
Up in Smoke’s burgers are adding to the culinary mix in Footscray. Picture- Nicole Cleary
Up in Smoke’s burgers are adding to the culinary mix in Footscray. Picture- Nicole Cleary

Cafe owner Desmond Huynh opened the hugely successful Rudimentary on Leeds St in March 2015.

“I always wanted to do something here and the people and the reaction has always been very positive,” Mr Huynh said.

He said he had planned to open in the area because of family ties with the location and because it was “diverse and interesting”.

He agreed change in a suburb so close to the city was “bound to happen” but said Footscray’s “spirit and culture” would protect it from possible neutralising effects of gentrification.

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Original URL: https://www.heraldsun.com.au/leader/north-west/cafe-culture-softening-the-edges-of-melbournes-wild-west/news-story/2e0722b522d70b9dbf3f7121d342b6ce