New look and partnership for acclaimed Balaclava restaurant Tulum
You won’t find kebabs and dips on the menu of this new-look restaurant in Balaclava. Its take on Ottoman cuisine includes almond soup and tahini ice cream — and it has some famous tongues wagging.
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You won’t find kebabs or dips at this Turkish restaurant.
Instead, diners at Tulum can taste one of Turkey’s seven regions via a degustation or mix and match their own mezze.
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Tulum owner and head chef Coskun Uysal opened the Balaclava venue about three years ago and recently joined forces with Kemal Barut from Lezzet in neighbouring Elwood.
The partnership includes Tulum, Lezzet and Phat Pizza and Burger Bar and the pair also have a Turkish wine business under their ATA Group umbrella.
In addition to tweaking his business arrangements Uysal has also overhauled the Tulum menu and almost doubled the number of seats at the Carlisle St restaurant from 35 to 52 inside and another 25 on the footpath.
Uysal said the menu was now more accessible with customers not tied to a series of set dishes with a more flexible selection designed to share also on offer.
Diners can choose from an enticing range of dishes such as a lamb and rice stuffed apple with smoked labne and cumin tomato sauce or Turkish Wedding Barley with milk poached corn.
Desserts are aptly listed as Turkish delights and include a mastic and milk mousse with rhubarb and rosewater jam, rhubarb granita and Turkish waffle.
Architecture and interior design firm Troupe Studio has also refreshed the dining space to reflect a modern Turkish bazaar.
“When I opened two years ago everything was white and clean, like the aesthetic of so many Melbourne eateries at that time,” Uysal said.
“We’ve evolved since then; now we really know who and what Tulum is.
“We want a space that reflects our identity: warm, cosy and welcoming. We want (diners) to feel relaxed, and just be appreciative of the food.”
Mr Barut said the changes reflected Melbourne’s evolving food scene.
“It is moving from something quite prestigious and sometimes stiff, to being a bit more relaxed — without losing any of its excitement,” he said.
“We want a space that feels welcoming for diners, and as they sit down to relax, and the food comes out paired with exceptional service, it’s a nice surprise,” said Barut.
Uysal said the kitchen had also been upgraded with new equipment that allow the team to create freshly ground rubs and tahinis from nuts and grains.
The changes have been applauded by both neighbourhood customers and big name foodies.
Nigella Lawson, who visited Tulum earlier this year said it “made my heart sing”.
“This is elegant food, to be sure, but with real heart and soul,” she said.
The celebrity chef posted a photo of Uysal’s cold almond soup with dill, smoked almonds, pickled grapes and kohlrabi.
She also talked about tahini ice cream with caramel and eggplant mousse and a “dreamy grilled strawberry and sumac sorbet with cinnamon ice cream and crispy barley”.
Tulum is at 217 Carlisle St, Balaclava.
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