NGV reveals Coco Chanel fashion exhibition for summer blockbuster

Never-before-seen outfits by legendary fashion designer Coco Chanel are set to dazzle at this blockbuster exhibition.

Melbourne is set for a stylish summer with an exhibition showcasing iconic fashion designer Coco Chanel at NGV International in December.

Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto will open with star-studded black-tie event the NGV Gala on December 4.

The exhibition will feature more than 100 garments tracing Chanel’s career, alongside displays of her perfume, jewellery and accessory designs.

“It’s a retrospective of Gabrielle Chanel, who is considered one of the most influential designers of all time,” Miren Arzalluz, director of renowned Paris fashion museum Palais Galliera and the exhibition’s curator, said.

“It’s really important to understand why she was important, and why her style is still relevant today.”

The exhibition will also feature never-before-seen outfits — a red silk velvet cape and white lace evening dress, from 1924 and 1933, respectively — gifted by Melbourne philanthropist Krystyna Campbell-Pretty.

This 1933 evening dress is among two rare outfits gifted by Melbourne philanthropist Krystyna Campbell-Pretty. Picture: Narelle Wilson, NGV

The Chanel evening cape was designed in the 1920s. Picture: Narelle Wilson, NGV

“They are extraordinary pieces,” Ms Arzalluz said.

“We were very happy to know an art collector in Melbourne had this amazing rare cape. These are very rare pieces that are hard to find. We were so proud it was the NGV that acquired this amazing and rare piece for the exhibition.”

Other highlights will include Chanel’s trailblazing use of black in fashion design, wool jersey and tailored tweed suits, and dazzling beaded garments.

A 1925 Chanel silk and lace dress. Picture: Julien T. Hamon

A Chanel suit from 1966. Picture: Narelle Wilson, NGV

Her signature “little black dress,” a timeless classic designed in 1926, will also be given a deserved spotlight.

“She was not the only one to do the little black dress, but it became so identified with her style,” Ms Arzalluz said.

“She interpreted it in the most radical, simple way when it comes to the straightness of the silhouette, and the absence of any adornment.”

Chanel’s controversial side, including claims she was a Nazi spy, will not be aired at the exhibition.

“We have avoided, in a very intentional way, her autobiography because we think everybody knows her life,” Ms Arzalluz said.

“She’s a woman who provokes different reactions, and surely a lot of fascination around her life and her personality.

Fashion designer Coco Chanel wearing one of her early jersey outfits.

“There are over 100 biographies that have been published about Chanel, so we thought the public knows her life. We decided to concentrate on her career on the objects she designed.

“The heart of the exhibition, really, is understanding the work of Chanel.”

Gabrielle Chanel, popularly known as Coco, died in 1971. She was 87.

NGV director Tony Ellwood said: ‘There is no bigger name in 20th century fashion design than Gabrielle Chanel. Her originality, timelessness and elegance forged a radically modern vision of fashion and a singular style.”

Victorian Creative Industries Minister Danny Pearson added: “Melburnians love their fashion so it is fitting that Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto makes its first international debut right here in Melbourne after its premiere in Paris.”