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Sydney craft beer: Inner West breweries some of Australia’s best

Sydney’s Inner West has become Australia’s craft-beer capital as it pours an estimated $45 million a year into the local economy.

The concentration of 10 independent microbreweries, from Camperdown to Marrickville, has been popular with locals since most opened in the past five years.

But, according to new research by the Inner West Brewery Association, it’s also become a major tourism drawcard, attracting nearly 30,000 visitors last year, and employs more than 220 people (most of whom are locals).

“There is an independence movement now with the craft brewing industry — and we’re definitely at the forefront of it,” the association’s president, Peter Philip, said.

Peter Philip, founder of Wayward Brewery in Camperdown, is calling for more locals to support the “independent movement” of breweries across Sydney. Pictures: Jennifer Soo
Peter Philip, founder of Wayward Brewery in Camperdown, is calling for more locals to support the “independent movement” of breweries across Sydney. Pictures: Jennifer Soo

“We’re worth at least $45 million, through what we deliver in jobs and tourism-related benefits, to the local economy. It’s a great achievement given what we’re up against from the big boys.”

The two ‘big boys’ — Carlton and United Breweries and Lion — are both in foreign hands, sparking a “buy local” push by the independent­ Sydney breweries.

The Belgian-owned CUB — which sells mainstream beers VB, Carlton Draught, Crown Lager and Pure Blonde — has been sold to Asahi Group Holdings for $16 billion, with the sale to be finalised by the first quarter of 2020.

It will mean Japanese drinks giants will soon own both of Australia’s major brewers after Kirin purchased Lion — which makes XXXX, James Boag’s and Tooheys — in 2009.

Mr Philip said local brewers were “incredibly frustrated” by the tax avoidance of the foreign-owned big breweries.

Great mates: Andrew Fineran, co-owner of Batch, Liam Pereira, barman at Batch, Peter Philip (Wayward) Mike Clarke (Sauce) at Batch Brewery in Marrickville.
Great mates: Andrew Fineran, co-owner of Batch, Liam Pereira, barman at Batch, Peter Philip (Wayward) Mike Clarke (Sauce) at Batch Brewery in Marrickville.

“CUB paid no corporate tax in 2015/16, despite making a profit of $2.1 billion,” the Wayward Brewery founder said.

“This is why we encourage people to buy local independent beer. It will cost a bit more, but it will support local businesses.”

In terms of production cost comparisons, he gave a telling insight.

“For one of those big breweries to brew a million litres of beer year, it takes them — their whole production divided by the number of staff they have — half a person. This compares to 20 staff for us,” Mr Philip said.

“So, our staff cost is 40 times more than that of the big brewers.”

Some of the beers on tap at Wayward Brewing Co in Camperdown.
Some of the beers on tap at Wayward Brewing Co in Camperdown.
The tap beers at Sauce Brewing Co in Marrickville.
The tap beers at Sauce Brewing Co in Marrickville.

The revelations come as Australia’s corporate craft beer market — driven by the big breweries — declined by 2 per cent last year, while sales of indie beer grew by 28 per cent.

“This is great news for the independents,” Mr Philip, who opened Wayward Brewery four years ago, said.

“And we now have a certified independent beer symbol.

“So we hope people won’t buy beer that doesn’t have this label, because they want to support local businesses.

“The call to action we want is for people to walk into their local pub and say ‘I want a local, independent beer’. And if they don’t have one, to ask: ‘Why aren’t you supporting your local community?’”

The ‘independent certified’ beer trademark.
The ‘independent certified’ beer trademark.

The Inner West now has one of the highest number of breweries per capita in the world. But they are not at each other’s throats.

“We don’t see ourselves as competitors. We’re all mates, we drink together and help each other where we can,” Mr Philip said.

“This is how our association started two years.

“Nobody gets into this business to make a lot of money. But it’s a passion for all of us — and that comes through in our beers.”

WAYWARD BREWING CO

Wayward is a quintessential Inner West brewery as it embraces the big local dog-loving community and appealing, easy-drinking brews.

Leading the way: Peter Philip is pouring his heart and hard-earned into boosting the Inner West’s craft beer scene.
Leading the way: Peter Philip is pouring his heart and hard-earned into boosting the Inner West’s craft beer scene.

It’s not as well known as Newtown’s Young Henrys. But, as the Camperdown brewery — which includes a “chilled-out”, 120-seat tap room — prepares to celebrate its fourth birthday, founder Peter Philip has plenty to be proud about.

There are 24 taps in the brewery, with beers that are “creative but not crazy”.

Wayward Brewery

The Raspberry Berliner Weisse coverts both men and women in “three sips”, Mr Philip — who came to Sydney from Canada in 1997 — assures me.

And, as it turns out, he’s right. It is bursting with raspberry flavours and balanced by zippy tartness and a crisp, dry finish.

Wayward’s latest release, “Balthazar” (named after a pet rabbit who would come into the tap room), is another winner. It’s a stout aged in a Jack Daniels bourbon barrel for six months.

The new stout named after a rabbit.
The new stout named after a rabbit.
One of the pet-friendly messages in Wayward.
One of the pet-friendly messages in Wayward.

Mr Philip’s brewery — which employs 20 staff — hasn’t quite cracked the magic million litres of production a year yet, but he’s edging closer.

“We’re building ourselves up quite nicely,” the 50-something former software worker said. “Making beer is a great passion for me. And our best days are yet to come.”

Wayward’s top picks: Everydale Aussie Pale Ale, Red IPA, Pilsner, Raspberry Berliner Weisse, India Pale Ale

Location: 1 Gehrig Lane, Camperdown

More info: waywardbrewing.com.au

SAUCE BREWING CO

The Bubble & Squeak put Sauce on the brewing map — but there’s a newcomer which is proving popular.

Sauce founder Mike Clarke with Peter Philip at his Marrickville brewery.
Sauce founder Mike Clarke with Peter Philip at his Marrickville brewery.

The Lemon, Lime & Bitterness is just as tasty as the non-alcoholic version, and with the dryness of a brut IPA as a base, it hits the spot.

Owner Mike Clarke launched Sauce — which has 15 staff — two years ago after a 20-year career in IT and the telco industry.

Sauce Brewery

“I’m certainly not the first person to go from one needy profession to another. But I’ve had a passion for brewing for a long time,” Mr Clarke said.

“The tap room here, with 12 beers and a core range of six, is good for people to come in and try the sort of beers they can’t get anywhere else. It’s always busy on the weekend, where we have a big outdoor seating area.”

He said he was focused on growing the wholesale side of the business.

“We’ve got national distribution now — and we’re continuing to push to get into as many Bottle-os as possible,” he said.

“We’re also looking at opening some more venues outside NSW. These will have more of a food focus with a small brewery in there as well.”

He talked up the “great mateship” between the local brewers.

“For the independents, we work collaboratively; it’s very much an ‘us against them’ (the big brewers) approach,” Mr Clarke said.

Mates: Mike Clarke with Andrew Fineran, co-owner of Batch, Liam Pereira, barman at Batch and Pete Philip at Batch Brewery in Marrickville.
Mates: Mike Clarke with Andrew Fineran, co-owner of Batch, Liam Pereira, barman at Batch and Pete Philip at Batch Brewery in Marrickville.

“Some people ask whether it’s hard having all the competition so close. But it’s quite the opposite. People come to the area to do the (8.5km) beer trail — and we all benefit.

“We ultimately want people to drink better beer — and there’s plenty of that in the Inner West.”

Sauce’s top picks: Bubble & Squeak (New England IPA overloaded with late hops, delivering a tropical delight to the senses); Hop Sauce (a Pale Ale, lovely golden colour, citrusy with hints of tropical and stone fruits); and Lemon, Lime & Bitterness Units (it has the dryness of a brut IPA as a base, loaded up with lemon and lime juice, and finished off with Aussie-made aromatic bitters containing Tasmanian pepperberries, lemon myrtle and Galaxy hops.)

Location: 1a Mitchell St, Marrickville

More info: sauce.beer

BATCH BREWING COMPANY

Americans Andrew Fineran and Chris Sidwa met on the lacrosse fields in Sydney.

After two years of planning, they opened Batch Brewing Co in December 2013 at Petersham.

Last month, they extended their flourishing operation, which employs 25 staff, to a second location in Marrickville.

Andrew Fineran at the new Batch microbrewery in Marrickville.
Andrew Fineran at the new Batch microbrewery in Marrickville.

“We’ve worked on this second brewery project for over a year to keep testing beer so we can keep giving consumers the best possible beer,” Mr Fineran, who previously worked for a big brewery, said.

Batch Brewing Co

“We’ve been doing a new beer every 10 days for the past five years. And this new brewery will allow us to bring back some old favourites.”

He said he and his business partner’s focus was “creating a great beer culture”, instead of “taking on the big boys”.

“But if that means we eat into the big boys’ overall market share, then so be it,” he said.

Asked where he sees the business in 5-10 years’ time, he said: “This will depend on market conditions, but we’ll probably have to grow a bit bigger and put a nano-brewery in another city, or even rural areas.”

What’s on tap at Batch?

American Wheat, East Coast Pale Ale, Elsie the Milk Stout — Nitrogenated stout with lactose, Helles House Lager, Juicy as Phuck — Phresh IPA, Juicy As Phuck V2.0, Mosiac Amber Ale, Sky Rockets in Flight — Nitro Red Ale Collab brew with The Union, Small Batch American Pale Ale, Tango Pacific Pale Ale

Locations: 44 Sydenham Rd, Marrickville; 292 Stanmore Rd, Petersham

More info: batchbrewingco.com.au

THE OTHERS

YOUNG HENRYS

It’s the Inner West’s most widely known brewery, making beer, cider and gin.

The dog-friendly brewery’s walls double as gallery space to local artists, while musicians, artists and chefs often collaborate on its brews.

Location: 76 Wilford St, Newtown

More info: younghenrys.com

Popular: Young Henrys.
Popular: Young Henrys.

THE GRIFTER

Open since 2012, its impressive tap list includes Crocodile tears (Double IPA), Cosmos (oatmeal IPA), Sunny Girl (Orange Saison) and a range of pilsners.

Location: 1/391-397 Enmore Rd, Marrickville

More info: thegrifter.com.au

WILLIE THE BOATMAN

Pat McInerney and Nick Newey are the brains behind this brewery in an old paint factory. It has top-quality pale ales.

Location: 202/75 Mary St, St Peters

More info: willietheboatman.com

Willie the Boatman owner Pat McInerney.
Willie the Boatman owner Pat McInerney.

WILDFLOWER

Opened in 2017, this award-winning brewery focuses on fermenting its beers with a diverse culture of brewers yeast, wild yeasts and bacteria.

Location: 11-13 Brompton Street, Marrickville

More info: wildflowerbeer.com

MALT SHOVEL

This brewery creates a range of James Squire craft beer and cider.

Location: 99 Pyrmont bridge Rd, Camperdown

More info: maltshovel.com.au

STAVES

Its German Pilsner Lager is a Sydney Royal Silver Medal winner.

Location: 4-8 Grose St, Glebe

More info: stavesbrewery.com

AKASHA

Great range of craft beers, from big Triple IPAs to silky-smooth American stouts and top-notch pale ales.

Location: 10-12 Spencer St, Five Dock

More info: akashabrewing.com.au

Oktoberwest Festival

The Inner West Brewery Association’s official festival, Oktoberwest 2019 will take place at The Factory Theatre in Marrickville from noon on Saturday, October 12.

Oktoberwest will feature brews from Young Henrys, Willie the Boatman, Wayward Brewing Company, The Grifter Brewing Company, Batch Brewing Company, Sauce Brewing Co, Philter Brewing, Malt Shovel Brewery and Stockade Brew Co.

Tickets cost $45.

More info: oktoberwest.com.au/

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Original URL: https://www.goldcoastbulletin.com.au/sydney-craft-beer-inner-west-breweries-some-of-australias-best/news-story/cd962c337bf1de6a3d4693edbd823614