Surfer Dean Morrison still recovering from 10m free fall wipe-out
Local surfer Dean Morrison has been nominated for an award following his horrific 10m free fall at the Hawaiian wave also known as Pe ahi last week.
Surfing
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DEAN Morrison is still recovering from an epic battle with Jaws.
The Cooly Kid has been nominated for the 2016 World Surfing League TAG Heuer Wipe-out award following his horrific 10m free fall at the Hawaiian wave also known as Pe ahi last week.
“To be honest, I just blacked out because I was so frightened,” the 35-year-old told the Gold Coast Bulletin from Maui.
“It’s definitely the heaviest hold-down I have experienced — I can’t think of ever being in a worse situation in my life.
“I didn’t have much time to think or even panic.”
The former world tour surfer turned big-wave charger said he was still recovering from the wipe-out — and the four waves that followed.
“My head was really fuzzy after and I still feel physically drained,” he said.
“The power of those waves is hard to explain — it’s just violence.
“I’m lucky I was wearing a (self-inflating) life vest — at least if you black out you’ll float to the surface and the skis will get you.”
The wipe-out happened on his first wave of the session.
“I don’t like waiting around and I just remember seeing the swells coming and thinking, ‘Oh, (expletive) and spinning my board around, putting my head down and paddling as hard as possible.
“I thought I could have made it, the wind was really strong but I think I just had to do a few more strokes,” he said.
“The wave just kept growing underneath me and I detached from the face and it was all over.”
Morrison is one of a handful of people who paddle into waves that about 15 years ago were thought unrideable without the aid of a jetski. “I want to push the boundaries,” he said.
Understandably Morrison plans to get some rest before the next big swell hits Hawaii.
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