The real reason why we wear black and white to Derby Day

It’s one of the strictest rules on the spring racing calendar, but have you ever wondered why attendees must don their best duochrome outfits to Derby Day?

Every year, people eagerly stand behind the gates at Flemington Racecourse with a ticket clenched in their hands, dressed to the nines and desperately hoping they come home with a handbag full of cash (and their shoes on).

Derby Day is the perfect chance for people to put on their best clothes and a fancy hat.

Black and white is still the rules for Derby Day attendees. Picture: NewsWire / Luis Enrique Ascui

There are many theories about this elusive theme and where it could have possibly originated. Some may think the trend began with the release of My Fair Lady in 1964 when Audrey Hepburn as Eliza Doolittle wore a striking black and white gown and a wide-brimmed hat to Ascot, designed by none other than Cecil Beaton. However fun this rumour may sound, it may only be part of the story.

Flemington fashion in the ’70s was experimental and daring.

The ‘80s took things one step further.

Derby Day’s history begins across the pond more than two centuries ago; in 1787, the Earl of Derby’s horse won the race while wearing black and white colours.

In 1910, King Edward died, and in true Edwardian fashion, racegoers swapped out their best clothes for black, the colour traditionally associated with mourning.

“The women wore white flowers or pearls,” celebrity stylist Donny Galella told NewsWire.

Is this where it began, then?

While this is a nice story, it’s entirely possible our penchant for black and white dressing actually began with a humble advertisement. That’s right, an advertisement found in a 1960 copy of Australian Women’s Weekly may have truly fast-tracked our strict black and white dress code for Derby Day.

In collaboration with whiskey manufacturer James Buchanan and Co and to celebrate its Black & White whiskey, Melbourne Cup attendees were offered a chance to win a £200 wardrobe prize (the equivalent of more than $7000 today) for the person with the best outfit on the field. There was a catch, however: attendees must dress in black and white.

The trend soon became a staple for Derby Day, with punters sticking to the duochrome colour palette for decades.

Jean Shrimpton at Derby Day, 1965, wearing a highly controversial white DuPont mini dress sans stockings, gloves or a hat – the horror!

It was at Derby Day in 1965 when British model Jean Shrimpton infamously bent the rules by wearing a mini DuPont dress for Derby Day; her hem sat a shocking 13cm above her knee, and she chose to forgo her stockings, gloves and hat. It really was outrageous at the time; you could feel the “youthquake” coming from a mile away.

When asked about her scandalous dress, she told reporters she didn’t “see what was wrong with the way I looked”.

“I feel Melbourne isn’t ready for me yet,” she added. “It seems years behind London.” Perhaps she was right.

The races have always been a time to experiment with style.

Fast forward nearly six decades later, and while Derby Day may be the strictest of all dress codes, it’s far from the only event during the spring racing carnival with a theme.

Next up is the Melbourne Cup, which is all about bright colours and patterns. Then it’s Oaks Day, also known as Ladies’ Day, where attendees are encouraged to wear “all things feminine”, such as flowers, pastels and frills. The final day of the week, Stakes Day, is far more relaxed, and while some rules are in place, it’s nothing compared with the kick-off event of the season.

The Melbourne Cup, the race that stops a nation (at least in Victoria), is one of the most fashionable of the year. This is where Fashions on the Field comes into play.

First established in 1960, Fashions on the Field rewarded the best-dressed punter with a prize and they at least won something for the day. As such, racegoers began wearing their most fabulous outfits – the bolder, the better.

The rules have since relaxed for the Melbourne Cup, allowing attendees to experiment a bit more. Picture: NewsWire / Luis Enrique Ascui

”Between black and white for Derby (Day), the Melbourne Cup is the opposite,” Mr Galella laughed.

This means wearing “bright, vibrant colours” to celebrate spring and taking a step out of your comfort zone with your outfit.

Fashion trends may have changed over the decades, but the love of bright colours and patterns has stayed persistent.

While there is no strict theme enforced at the event, there are still a boatload of rules that many guests famously ignored. For starters, up until last year, attendees were not allowed to wear cut-outs or show their midriffs, nor were they allowed to wear denim, shorts or torn clothing.

But in the ‘00s, many celebrities did their best to tear up the rule book. In Bec Hewitt’s case, it was a pair of white knee-length shorts and a black and white top, complete with black cups and a cut-out at the sternum, that had people talking for decades.

Many of these rules have since relaxed, allowing racegoers to now wear cut-outs and expose their midriffs – even men can wear shorts, as long as they’re formal and accompanied by a suit jacket and tie.

As far as Derby Day is concerned, though, it doesn’t seem the rules are going anywhere. In fact, we’d say they remain printed clearly in black and white.

Originally published as The real reason why we wear black and white to Derby Day