Gold Coast Travel: Hip, hip Hong Kong

NO stranger to Hong Kong, join our writer as he discovers how much a part of the city he once called home has changed for the better and much, much hipper!

Sheung Wan, Hong Kong.

THERE are parts of Hong Kong that I wouldn’t have bothered roaming around in past years, let alone staying in.

But a recent return visit changed my mind, because this amazing place keeps pressing the refresh button, finding new areas to explore, neglected precincts to cover, new experiences to enjoy … the result of the same driving forces and entrepreneurial people that keep Asia’s World City alive and prospering through the highs and lows of economic and political life.

In Dried Seafood Alley.

There’s an area close to Central (Hong Kong Island) that we used to drive through without really noticing, on our way home to the residential ‘burb of Pokfulam.

It’s only in the past couple of years that Sheung Wan has hoisted its tourism flag, a precinct that says “Hey stop, I’m worth a look. I’m the real Hong Kong”.

So we did, not only stop but stay a few days. And it was an eye opener.

Dai Pai Dong Street.

Sheung Wan’s streetscape is a higgledy-piggledy hotchpotch of lanes, alleys and stairways designed to test the knees and thighs.

The architecture is a beguiling mix of extremes … from old shopfront houses and terraces to modern high-rise offices and apartments.

Thankfully much of the character of the area has been preserved, and community activity at the historic Man Mo Temple and other places still draws crowds.

Chau Siu barbecue pork.

But it’s the new rather than the old that’s transformed Sheung Wan into a vibrant hipster hangout popular not only with expats and the younger local crowd, but increasingly tourists like us looking for something different away from the usual shopping-dominated haunts and the business hotels populated by suits.

To get a true taste of the district we embark on a different walk with a small group led by Lilian of Foodie Tours.

We’ve been warned that as the tour starts at 2pm we should avoid the lunch hour rush and arrive with an empty stomach. We are glad we did.

A craft beer bar in Sheung Wan.

We walk around the narrow streets, up and down steps of “Ladder Street” and others, linger a while for Lilian’s informative commentary, and partake of a movable feast of Cantonese delights.

These range from special wonton noodles to roast meats such as barbecue pork, preserved fruits, pure cane juice, herbal teas and the best dim sum you’ll ever have.

Street art in Sheung Wan.

We learn that the day of the dai pai dong (street food market) is nearly over, as licenses are not being renewed, much to the chagrin of residents.

However, on the positive side, the entire precinct is alive with the buzz of new ventures including quirky bars, Western-style bistros, cafes and “fusion” places where the culinary world meets in a plethora of tastes, smells and sounds. Even in a week, you wouldn’t be able to cram in everything that Sheung Wan has to offer.

Foodie tour guide Lilian.

There’s another important facet to the area that should be mentioned. This is the advent of a new flock of interesting small hotels ranging from affordable boutique style to suites and apartments.

A living room of the One96 Hotel.

The One96 Hotel with its hi-tech appointments, clean modern interiors and ideal location was perfect for singles and couples, with just one room on every floor like our own private apartment.

Mrs Pound Bar and Restaurant.

And behold, there’s a mini kitchen with full size fridge, microwave, coffee machine and even a washer/dryer, while the 1st floor lounge has breakfast plus free snacks all day.

We counted more than a dozen new hotels of this type, including sister hotels such as Jervois, Putman and 99 Bonham which also cater to family travel.

On the street in Sheung Wan.

These accommodation options are fun, a bit quirky, modern and most of all affordable in a city where hotel prices can be a killer.

Best of all, you can make believe you’re really “hip” with the in-crowd for a few days in an area you won’t forget.

discoverhongkong.com

hongkongfoodietours.com

nationalhotels.com.hk

On the street in Sheung Wan.

Fly direct from the Gold Coast to Hong Kong with Hong Kong Airlines.

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FOR Gold Coasters there’s now a direct air link to Hong Kong from Coolangatta, avoiding that trip to Brisbane. Hong Kong Airlines takes you there and back (a short stop in Cairns on the way north) with full service including meals, drinks and baggage, and their reasonably priced Business Class has up-to-date flat beds for the return overnight flight. They also have connections onwards from Hong Kong to 28 cities in Asia and soon, direct flights to Vancouver, Canada.

hongkongairlines.com

On board a Hong Kong Airlines flight.