Taste review: Hideaway Kitchen & Bar, Broadbeach

BRACE all of your senses for an appetising Asian adventure under the umbrellas at Broadbeach.

Hideaway Kitchen + Bar’s Scott Imlach. Photos: Jerad Williams

FORGET what the name implies — there’s no chance of overlooking new Broadbeach eatery Hideaway.

Experienced operators Scott Imlach (Bine Bar & Dining, Barchino and Nobbys Arc), Jon Hizola and Toby Young have taken an underused space on the Gold Coast Highway and crammed every centimetre of it with loud, look-at-me colour.

Fare at Hideaway Kitchen + Bar.

Diners can kick up their heels on the bar swing, gather in a gallery of graffiti art, or cuddle up to a heat lamp under a rainbow “roof” of umbrellas and string lights.

There’s a strong element of novelty to the food, but it’s underpinned by some serious culinary credentials.

Co-owner Jon is head chef and, with his interest in the intersection of cuisine and culture, he’s ideal for the job.

With his multicultural kitchen brigade capturing the diversity of Asian street food, the sheer scope of the menu demands multiple visits.

Fare at Hideaway Kitchen + Bar.

Start in the raw bar with Jon’s signature, citrus-tinged yellowtail sashimi with zingy finger lime, chilli and a subtle hit of herbs ($20).

Choosing from the small plates is a tall order: chilli chicken wings with gochujang and sesame seeds ($14), locally made tofu in a spicy dashi broth ($12), Cantonese-inspired crunchy rolls jammed with Moreton Bay bugs ($16) and duck breast pancakes with slivers of crunchy cucumber and addictive Canton sauce ($21) all vie for attention.

Panko-battered prawns ($15) are served on sugarcane skewers, which diners can nibble for a sweet finish after they’ve devoured the prawns in a lettuce cup.

Inside Hideaway Kitchen + Bar.

Keep your tastebuds on their toes with soft-shelled crab salad ($21) splicing juicy wedges of watermelon with the crisply fried morsels.

Bring your entourage to do the larger plates justice — each one is designed to be shared by up to four people. Highlights include a meltingly tender beef cheek rendang in coconut cream ($26), steamed fish in soy with ginger and shallots ($40), duck red curry with lychee and chilli ($28) and a 500g chargrilled rib on the bone ($48). The popular vote wins when it comes to the range of rice and noodles — pad Thai ($17) is at its vibrant, texture-rich best here and I’m glad our waitress talked me into it.

Fare at Hideaway Kitchen + Bar.

I took the cliched route for dessert too, but it turned out the cinnamon-dusted doughnuts ($12) were hiding a rich, warm, caramel secret of dulche de leche, smartly set off by black sesame ice cream.

The tapioca pudding ($12), with its refreshing ribbon of coconut yoghurt sorbet, is a more original option.

Hideaway’s liquid assets are ample, with Stone & Wood and Balter XPA among the local brews on tap, alongside sake, cider, bottled Asian beers and inventive cocktails.

I booked via the eatery’s website and it couldn’t have been simpler, but get in early to avoid disappointment.

This is Asian street food designed to appeal to the masses and that’s exactly what it’s attracting.

Inside Hideaway Kitchen + Bar.

HIDEAWAY KITCHEN & BAR

2657 Gold Coast Highway, Broadbeach

Book it: 5679 0369

Open: Dinner Wednesday to Sunday

Inside Hideaway Kitchen + Bar.