‘Pain and heartbreak’: Designer opens up about controversial Melbourne Fashion Festival ‘Allah’ garments

Designer Samantha Saint James’ label has set the record straight about its controversial ‘Allah’ garments which enraged fashion lovers earlier this month.

An Australian label who came under fire for showcasing two garments featuring religious text on a Melbourne catwalk has come forward to defend its designs, saying they were supposed to represent “strong warriors”.

Not A Man’s Dream was forced to apologise earlier this month after the brand received backlash for displaying the Arabic text for “Allah” on two of its garments on the Melbourne Fashion Festival (MFF) runway.

MFF also said it was sorry after it received criticism for allowing the designer to feature the garments, which were made out of sheer material and included a headpiece that was likened to a hijab.

“We understand certain pieces shown as part of (Saturday) night’s Closing Runway have caused offence to some members of our community,” the festival stated in its apology.

“The Festival did not intend to disrespect anyone and we apologise for any offence caused.”

Viewers of the outfits slammed its designer, including model Mona Khalifa. Picture: Instagram @nawalsari / TikTok @monakhalifaxo_

The statement, which was posted to the festival’s Instagram account that weekend, further stated it had been in contact with the brand’s designer Samantha Saint James who agreed to remove the content featuring the designs from their channels.

Saint James added: “I apologise for any offence or disrespect caused by certain pieces I showed in Saturday evening’s MFF runway.

“I’ve come to understand how some garments have caused offence. It was the opposite of my intention and for that, I’m truly sorry.”

Following the ordeal, the designer and her label’s Instagram accounts were deactivated as enraged viewers took to social media to vent their frustrations about the garments.

Model Mona Khalifa took to TikTok to explain why the designs were insulting, while Melbourne film director Kauthar Abdulalim said the incident served as a reminder as to why more “culturally competent voices” are needed in the creative industry.

“Look how she’s dressed, she’s literally naked and it’s got the word ‘Allah’ all over the body,” Ms Khalifa said. “There is no reason for anyone to put the word ‘Allah’ or anything Islamic on something like this.”

A garment from label Not a Man's Dream featuring the Arabic text of ‘Allah’. Picture: Lucas Dawson Photography

Designer Samantha Saint James was inspired by pictures of soldiers. Picture: Instagram/@sindonews

Now, two weeks on from the ordeal, Not a Man’s Dream said it’s had time to reflect and consider “everything that transpired after the event” and has come forward to set the record straight.

“I am writing to address the community following the immense criticism that eventuated in relation to my work following the MMF event,” the label said on behalf of Saint James in a statement.

The label outlined it had no intentions of “provoking, disrespecting or deliberately offending the Muslim community” through Saint James’ designs and once again apologised for any offence or hurt she may have caused.

“The motivation and context behind the work was to represent strong warriors,” it said.

“(While) researching various historical examples of soldiers going to war, I came across imagery that caught my heart and eye, in particular, the writings these warriors and soldiers had inscribed on their helmets.”

The statement explained these soldiers believed in the affirmation “God Walks With Me”, which Saint James felt was a testament to the courage it takes to face adversity.

“As a Lebanese Arabic woman, I felt translating this statement into the Arabic language with the warrior icon was an expression of the strength and the challenges I have personally faced.

“It is very unfortunate that this sentiment has been misunderstood and taken out of the context to produce a false narrative about my intent.”

Not a Man's Dream has reactivated its Instagram to showcase its latest designs. Picture: Instagram/@notamansdream

A number of photos were posted on Friday for the first time since February 11. Picture: Instagram/@notamansdream

The label expressed there was only one way to translate such a phrase into Arabic and that it didn’t mean for the design to cause any harm or disrespect towards religious groups.

It also added that while the designer believes everyone is entitled to have an opinion, some comments have led to hate speech, harassment, bullying and threats leading to “pain and heartbreak for many”.

“Bullying and harassing, threatening people, or encouraging others in the community to behave in such a way, should never be the solution to one‘s feelings,” it said.

Upon reflection, Not a Man’s Dream has decided to rework the phrase on the garments and hopes it and others will be forgiven for the misunderstanding that took place.

“I hope this sheds some light on everything that has occurred, and I hope that we as a community can move forward with understanding and forgiveness,” the statement said.

Both the designer’s and label’s Instagram accounts have been reinstated, with Not a Man’s Dream uploading a bout of new posts on Friday morning to showcase Saint James’ latest pieces of work.

Saint James founded the “androgynous women-led brand” label last year, which she said is driven by the motto “walk to the beat of your own drum”.

“Our mission is to empower people and create a sense of freedom through the marriage of art, fashion, and voice,” the label’s mission statement reads.

It also promotes sustainable and ethical practices through its designs which incorporate “craftsmanship, individuality and handmade aesthetic”.

Originally published as ‘Pain and heartbreak’: Designer opens up about controversial Melbourne Fashion Festival ‘Allah’ garments