Gold Coast Taste: Double Barrel Kitchen, Mermaid Waters

THIS new cafe at Mermaid Waters demonstrates the power of service with a genuine smile.

Double Barrel’s Brekkie Bao: steamed soft Chinese bao bun, thick-cut free-range bacon, quail egg and relish. Photo: David Clark

LET’S get the bad news out of the way first: The tabletop-sized chicken parmis you last year voted as the Best on the Gold Coast are no more.

While Aniketos Greek Restaurant has sadly closed its doors, here’s the great news: you’re going to love the cafe that’s moved in.

Double Barrel’s Jess Winters. Photo: David Clark

The new Double Barrel Kitchen is the creation of locals Jess Winters and partner Peter Tutton and it delivered some of the warmest, most switched-on cafe service I’ve enjoyed in a long-time.

Jess was involved in the fitout of standout Coast eateries Etsu and Mamasan and her experience shows.

While the carpark outlook is more convenient than it is scenic, Double Barrel is beautiful on the inside, with recycled timber and greenery creating an urban oasis.

Double Barrel at the Waterways Shopping Centre, Mermaid Waters. Photo: David Clark

It’s a comfortable setting to enjoy a hot brew from Yatala’s Supreme Roasters, or explore the flexible, mid-priced all-day breakfast and lunch menus.

It’s classic cafe fodder at heart, but with a sophisticated spin and smart plating.

Double Barrel’s Gumbo Cob: southern style creole broth of vegetables, chicken, rice and spices served steaming inside a cob loaf. Photo: David Clark

Inside Double Barrel.

Granola gets a sexy makeover, anchored by a “floating” vanilla pannacotta drizzled with wild honey and organic yoghurt and topped with seasonal fruit ($15.50).

The of-the-moment bao is taken into breakfast territory, with three soft, steamed Chinese buns to showcase the small but perfectly formed layers of thick-cut free-range bacon, quail eggs and relish ($14).

From the lunch menu — which they obligingly allow us to order from, even though we’re an hour early — try the gumbo cob ($15.50).

It’s basically the southern staple in prettier packaging; a wintry broth of vegetables, chicken, rice and spices served steaming inside a crusty cob loaf.

Inside Double Barrel. Photo: David Clark

Beef, mushroom and ale hot pot ($16) is another slow-cooked season essential.

For dessert, check out the treat cabinet next to the counter for a mix of naughty and nice, including oversized muffins, dense brownies, raw slices and individual cheesecakes.

While I’d be back for the food and coffee, it’s the nothing’s-too-much-trouble attitude that makes me envy anyone who gets to call this their “local”.

The eatery is already licensed, offering beer and wine, but dinner is a case of watch-this-space as the team find their feet.

It’s a promising start.

Double Barrel’s Jess Winters. Photo: David Clark

DOUBLE BARREL KITCHEN

Waterways Village Shopping Centre, Shop 4/64 Karbunya Street, Mermaid Waters

Book it: 5526 0774

Open: Daily from 6am — 3.30pm