Sydney Eat Street: New eateries finally open for business after lockdown
As Sydney’s dining scene eases out of isolation, an extra round of applause goes to those new eateries that were hit with the lockdown just as they were welcoming their first customers and despite it all, pushed through to the other side.
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LITTLE LIVI
From little things, big things grow, and it is the determination of the family that owns and operates this cafe in Ultimo that has ensured it will not only survive but thrive post-COVID-19.
Little Livi opened just before the pandemic, but Olivia Sawaya, one of seven in the family business, says: “We had a family meeting to discuss how we would survive the lockdown measures. We stayed open to support the local community. We changed our business model to a takeaway and a mini-grocery store.”
That included selling dry goods, pasta sauces and their house-blend coffee. As relative newcomers to the neighbourhood, it was a brave choice as the majority of their customers were office workers and university students. Still, family is at the heart of this venture.
Dropping that childhood nickname is practically a rite of passage into adulthood, but no matter the age, a family never forgets that affectionate moniker. Little Livi, is Gabriel’s (the patriarch of the Sawaya clan) second daughter Olivia’s nickname. Family is also the inspiration for the menu.
“(It’s) food we’d want to eat when all of us go out together,” says Gabriel and this sun-drenched cafe with whitewashed walls, open kitchen and a shiny new coffee machine operated by an equally bright barista, it’s a place you’d want to visit as well.
Olivia notes that they are relieved “as office workers are returning, which brings back regular customers” seeing as Little Livi and the whole family are in it for the long haul.
“We used our personal savings to keep the business afloat in such a hard and struggling economic time,” Olivia says.
“We did this to service the local community during this difficult time, and to demonstrate our long-term commitment, loyalty and love to all our customers.”
Breakfast is served all day from 7am and, of course, includes cafe staples.
“The Little Livi big breakfast is based on seasonal Australian ingredients,” she says.
“We have decided to use Australian products as much as possible to support our local farmers and local jobs.”
In the past few months, they have also added gourmet burgers, housemade soups and more sandwiches to the menu.
However, notes Olivia, “our Little Livi coffee has always been our number-one seller” and considering it’s always served with a smile and some pretty clever latte art, that title looks set to stand.
— 63 Mountain St, Ultimo; littlelivi.com.au
HO JIAK TOWN HALL
They say good things come in threes and for Junda Khoon, head chef and co-owner of Ho Jiak’s trio of popular Malaysian eateries, their plan to survive the COVID-19 shutdown was as smart as a three-piece suit: “Cheap $10 ‘survival’ takeaways (such as Nasi Goreng, and Nasi Lamak chicken curry) to help others who’d lost their jobs, frozen family meals (such as beef Rendang for four), to help those stuck working from home yet still having to home school their kids and prepare meals, and microwave packs to help those without families but had to work.”
As part of the service, he adds: “We launched our own delivery platform and along with those three steps that allowed us to generate sales and cash flow so we could to continue to pay our rent and retain staff.”
And now that the lockdown is starting to ease, Junda says “we’re in a good spot”.
Ho Jiak Town Hall launched just before the lockdown.
“I knew a lockdown was coming, but I just didn’t expect it to be so quick,” Junda admits.
“That gave me one week to secure financing for our war chest to go to war with this pandemic. When we soft-launched the numbers of viruses were increasing and, in that week, I knew a lockdown was coming; I just didn’t know it was going to be in a few days’ time.”
As there had already been a four-month delay, he opted to go ahead with the soft-launch which “was all a part of us getting our name out there saying we are open”.
Days later, the lockdown went into effect, and once it hit, there was an instant 90 per cent drop in turnover overnight.
“That’s when we started working hard – hard on takeaways, frozen vacuum packs, microwave meals etc,” he says.
Now that things are slowly getting back to normal, Ho Jiak restaurants have returned to their full menus and phased out the Ho Jiak at Home offerings.
Junda and the team decided to do thus, mainly to “encourage more people to come out and dine in restaurants, not just ours but others who desperately need patrons as well”.
All the more reason to Town Hall and try those dishes, including the Malaysian chilli crab, wagyu skewers and Kam Heon prawns that had taunted you for the past few months.
— 125 York St, Sydney; hojiak.com.au
JIMMY’S FALAFEL
Simon Zalloua’s mother Saide is the not-so-secret to the success at Jimmy’s Falafel. The whole concept evolved after a moment of serendipity when Simon, now the head chef at Jimmy’s Falafel was brought into The Collaroy’s kitchen to cook for Justin Hemmes, Merivale Group’s CEO.
Simon was permitted one other person beside him, so he brought his mum, Saide which turned out to be one of his best decisions.
“I thought she’d just come along as a kitchen-hand, do the dishes. Things like that,” says Simon.
And the inkling of an idea for a falafel-based restaurant was born.
The latest of Merivale’s ventures, Jimmy’s Falafel has been three years in the making. Part of the planning included a culinary research trip to Beirut for Simon, where he learned of the humble falafel’s regional nuances including subtle differences in seasoning and or the use of entirely different beans type of bean (broad bean or chickpea).
However, after opening in March, which fortunately skirted the chaos of the George St light-rail construction COVID-19 threw up an entirely new set of obstacles, which gave Sydneysiders had a mere three days to sample the menu before lockdown.
As restrictions are eased phase by phase, the venue has followed suit, first with patrons popping in for a falafel fix from the takeaway counter, then as the number of patrons was bumped up to 10, diners were able to head further back, past walls of 70s travel posters to the varnished gold tables, brick orange booths and a brass bar.
Now, so close to fully opening, you can almost taste the apricot and anise cocktail. At the moment you can indulge in plates of his fusion falafels, meze plates and more Middle Eastern fare, including his mother’s more-ish Green Goddess Tahini and the completely decadent baklava ice-cream sandwich.
Once night-time service is fully-up and running, Simon will heat up the charcoal grill and crank up the music. Where the evening takes you from there is your call.
— 312 George St, Sydney; merivale.com.au
KHOI’S VIETNAMESE CUISINE
For weeks, co-owner Kelly Nguyen and her team were trying to choose between keeping their restaurant open and closing during the COVID-19 pandemic.
“We decided to close … it was one of the most difficult decisions in our career,” says Kelly.
“But the safety of our staff and customers took precedence.”
The choice was even harder as “Khoi’s was formed from the passion and enthusiasm of wanting to spread Vietnamese cuisine to the locals in Surry Hills in particular and Sydney in general,” she reveals, but it also gave them more time to play with the menu.
Still, having barely a chance to become established, that didn’t stop them from doing what they could to help their struggling neighbours.
As dry goods became scarce and prices escalated, Khoi’s imported two tonnes of rice. They sold it at cost to the large community of international students, the majority of which had been made redundant from their part-time jobs.
Additionally, they began offering discounts for takeaway and free delivery, both to help those struggling and retain staff.
This was a win for all involved: for Kelly, she sees Khoi’s becoming more engaged in community activities, and for the restaurant, the takeaway and delivery offerings gave people a taste of Khoi’s authentic Vietnamese fare including the grilled marinated pork, Vietnamese crispy pancake with tiger prawns; crispy skin Bannockburn chicken cooked in Khoi’s master stock; and the flavourful, 100 per cent Vegetarian noodle soup.
— 583 Crown St, Surry Hills
THE BUND
Close enough to the city to be convenient yet just off the main roads, the Walsh Bay wharf precinct is an ideal place for premium residences, boutique hotels and an arts presence.
But, underneath it all is a local community that relies on the local IGA for groceries, gathers at the cafes for coffee and frequent the eateries for dinner and takeaway.
So when The Bund, opened at the start of the year, locals were keen to try this modern Chinese restaurant named after the renowned waterfront promenade in Shanghai.
Not long after they opened and just as people were starting to get a taste for their classic Beijing Peking duck, Shandong Five-spices roast chicken and Xiao Long Bao (Shanghai soup dumplings), they were forced to close because of the pandemic.
But for The Bund’s co-owner, Lillian Lam, who along with her husband are the original owners of the Shangri-la restaurant, IGA and Walsh Bay Wine Cellar, they took a reflective approach to the situation.
“Although it’s been tough, we’ve really had a chance to dial down and get to know our local and frequent customers,” says Lillian.
“This has been a great opportunity to meet them and understand what parts of our service they love so much, and we thank them for their support.”
— 16A Hickson Rd, Walsh Bay; thebundyblossom.com
THE BEACH PROJECT
Looking out over the sands the water this beachside cafe bar and restaurant was supposed to be a great place to ride out the summer with good food, craft beer and clever cocktails, but a mere three days after owner/manager Salma a halt to those plans.
“The first two weeks our heads were spinning,” says Salma, but in that time, they changed their business model to takeaway service, and were able to retain most of their staff.
“We even turned our front windows into a bottle shop display.
“With the support of our sensational team, supplier partners and indeed our fabulous local customers, things got on track very quickly.”
That may, of course, have had something to do with their market-fresh beer-battered fish and chips, international-themed toasties and sensational coffee.
Now that the lockdown is close to complete, Salma says that The Beach Project is ready “to give what we always wanted to for the Northern Beaches – a place that the locals need and deserve that offers high-quality food, drink, music and most importantly to us, service”.
To see what it’s all about, stop by for their Burger n’ Beer Thursdays where $20 gets you a tinnie, a delicious Angus with Cheese, Southern Fried Chicken, Crumbed Fish or a TBP Vegan Whopper and a side of chips.
— 1 Narrabeen Park Pde, North Narrabeen; facebook.com/thebeachproject2101/
WALSH BAY CRABHOUSE
It’s near impossible to crack into chilli crab without a shriek or a smile, as there aren’t many places where everyone can agree that the food is so delicious that a drip here or there can be forgiven.
That is just one of the reasons that diners have flocked to the award-winning Harry’s Singapore Chilli Crab restaurant since Harry Lau first opened it nearly 40 years ago.
It’s had a few different locations since then, but the daily shipments direct from the Queensland Mangroves have been a constant which made it particularly difficult for both the restaurant and their suppliers during the COVID-19 lockdown.
“The recent months have been the toughest time that we have ever been in the restaurant business but we also feel supported especially from the local residents and regular customers who came back the minute restrictions were removed,” Elaine Lau, who owns the restaurant with her husband Andy, says.
If ever you needed an excuse to indulge in Chilli Crab, Pepper and Salt calamari, abalone, lobster and all the other bounty of the sea, just head down to Barangaroo and say you’re helping out an old friend.
— 1 Towns Place, Millers Point; walshbaycrabhouse.com.au
SMALL’S DELI
The author of 22 cookbooks and America’s first foodie, James Beard once noted “too few people understand a really good sandwich” but fortunately for Sydneysiders, Ben Shemesh and Emily van Loon have opened Small’s Deli, a petite shop that celebrates the fine-art of made-to-order sandwiches.
The inspiration for the endeavour came after a summer in Bologna, Italy, where they made time to “enjoy the theatre of meats and cheeses being cut before your eyes then straight on your sandwich”.
Alas, two weeks after opening, the COVID-10 lockdown restrictions were put in place, and they had to close the doors before really getting started.
“We had to think of something semi-different right away,” Emily says.
“We hung our menu on our door and operated as takeaway only with the door semi-open … We were totally set up for takeaway anyway, so we didn’t have to change much in the way of food offerings and how it came.”
Additionally, the shelves had just been stocked with housemade preserves, jams and pasta sauces along with artisanal smallgoods. Now that restrictions have eased take a stroll along Potts Point’s leafy streets, stop in, step up to the counter to make your selection and then walk out with what James Beard would consider being a “really good sandwich”.
— 166 Victoria St, Potts Point
SERGEANT LOK
History abounds in The Rocks and Sergeant Lok’s brief launch at the start of the year adds one more story to the books.
Located at The Old Police Station, this modern Asian restaurant brought new life to the heritage-listed building, turning each of the many different rooms into separate dining and lounge sections.
Although Sergeant Lok was closed throughout the COVID-19 lockdown, upon reopening, not only have customers been keen to once again enjoy such dishes as the Australian blue mussels with Thai basil XO sauce or the slow-cooked Shaoxing glazed beef rib with smoked jalapeño garlic relish, when they arrive, there are inevitably lighthearted comments about the practicality of separate dining rooms for social distancing — all of which is best discussed over a drink from their impressive wine and clever cocktail lists.
— 127 George St, The Rocks; sergeantlok.com.au
WHAT’S FRESH
AZZURRO 753
Pinsa Romana is a type of Roman pizza that’s crisp on the outside and fluffy in the middle.
It’s a featured menu item that Azzurro 753, the latest addition to the Walsh Bay wharf precinct, was quick to offer the nearby residents shortly after COVID-19 lockdown restrictions came into effect.
Slowly, Azzurro began to include more to their takeaway menu, particularly the comforting and familiar pasta sauces and handmade pasta for home-cooking. Like many Italian expats, they took heed of the experiences their families were having in Italy.
“Being Italian and knowing what our country, our families, our loved ones have been experiencing in the last few months, we understand that the lockdown was beyond necessary, it was a fundamental measure to be taken,” says Sara Caltavituro, Azzurro’s co-owner.
This Italian eatery and retail hybrid may have had a tough start to 2020, and yet she says, “we are fully committed to survive this new and unexpected challenge, rising again stronger than before”.
“Our staff members and local customers have been amazing during the whole journey, and we want to thank them personally for their amazing job and great support,” Sara says.
“Now, let’s be greater together and look forward to something more amazing in the future to come.”
— 7/16 Hickson Rd, Walsh Bay; azzurro753.com
When lockdown began, some food businesses closed shop. But others changed course and developed initiatives that proved lucrative enough to become permanent fixtures going forward. Here are just a few of them around Sydney.
SUGAR POP BAKERY
You still have loads of work to do but the kids are done with their schoolwork, exhausted Netflix’s family channel, and if they take on any more projects, they’ll be glued to the table.
What is a WFH parent to do? Were this the usual school holiday period, you could have taken them to see Nicole Pal at Sugar Pop Bakery for an afternoon session spent adorning cupcakes and cake pops but during lockdown that wasn’t an option.
“One of my customers just asked me if we were doing cake pop kits as she was running out of DIY kits to try,” Nicol says.
Nicole had given the idea some thought but knew that making the actual petite ball-shaped pieces of cake on a stick could get quite technical so she opted to skip that step and go straight to the fun part.
“Cake pops are hard to make so I didn’t want something that requires a lot of baking skills,” she says.
“Since we’ve taught kids’ classes before, we already knew what sort of things kids love and can do on their own.”
From there, she set about creating three different kits that would suit boys and girls of all ages.
Each kit includes four cake pops, three piping bags filled with coloured chocolate, and an array of extra bits.
“The Princess Kit is great for practising piping skills as it has the largest surface area for kids to work with,” Nicole says, while the Monster and Unicorn ones can be a bit trickier with thin lines.
One of the best parts is that since it’s made with chocolate, it can be saved and reheated for another day of decorating.
It does come with an instruction booklet but hop on Facebook and check out the video tutorial her twin daughters Jeslyn and Janesa have put together. Seems creativity runs in the family.
MR NILAND AT HOME FROM FISH BUTCHERY
Necessity is the mother of invention, and for husband and wife duo Josh and Julie Niland, their imperative before shuttering their multi-award-winning restaurant, Saint Peter and Fish Butchery to comply with lockdown restrictions was the wellbeing of their staff.
“Mr Niland at Home was a model that Julie and I were quick to think of a week before closing Saint Peter,” Josh says.
“It was an absolute necessity for us to implement this business to retain part of our team during lockdown.”
True to the outstanding food and sustainable practices that are at the forefront of the Niland’s ethos, Josh and his team developed what he describes as “nutritional fish-focused meals that need a further 10 to 15 per cent of cooking at home”.
The featured meals such as pink ling, green peppercorn and BBQ leek pie or Mooloolaba tuna lasagne change daily and include basic instructions.
“It is a fantastic opportunity for our customers to get to work with great produce and (preparation) cared for by our very talented chefs,” he says.
“It has been surprisingly a really enjoyable business to run as it has challenged us creatively and also logistically,” adding that he’s not limiting it to lockdown.
“Mr Niland at Home will be a business that we will continue to operate even after Saint Peter reopens,” Josh says.
“It was incredible to see the support not only from our regular customers but from the dining public across Sydney.”
— Pick-up at Fish Butchery, 388 Oxford St, Paddington; fishbutchery.com.au
THE GROUNDS OF ALEXANDRIA
While the chaos of the current climate may be enough to drive you down the rabbit hole, with any luck, you just might stumble upon an outlandish tea party. Until then, you can host your own soiree with The Grounds’ High Tea Package complete with eight different sweet and savoury bites for each person and which can be tailored to two, four or six people.
Prior to COVID-restrictions, the city venue’s High Tea sittings offered a similar selection served beautifully on tiered cake stands and delicate plates was only available at their city venue’s High Tea sittings, but when Mother’s Day rolled around, customers began asking about gift options, The Grounds introduced the pack as a limited-edition offering.
It proved so popular that they added the High Tea option to their menu along with the takeaway meals they had begun to deliver.
For the whole formal affair, you can also add on the requisite freshly-baked scones, cream and jam (12 for $32), 100g loose leaf tea ($16), fine-bone china teacup and saucer ($22 per setting) and, as a special offer, a free bottle of Grounds Dee Vine Estate Brut/Sparkling wine.
You’ll need to pre-order for Friday, Saturday or Sunday pick-up or delivery to select Sydney suburbs.
— 2 Huntley St, Alexandria; thegrounds.com.au
MATT MORAN’S VIRTUAL COOKING CLASSES
A true champion of the ‘paddock to plate’ ethos, celebrity chef and restaurateur Matt Moran has long been recognised as an advocate for Aussie farmers, but since the pandemic lockdown he has become a true champion of the Australian dining scene.
Matt says: “I knew it was going to be devastating for everyone … from the customer to the restaurant to the landlord to the farmer to all our other markets that feed off us – delivery drivers, laundry, cleaners, there has been a knock-on effect for so many industries.”
His angst was shared by the whole industry, but after a breather, he and several fellow chefs including Neil Perry and Luke Mangan did an about-face and focused on what they do best: cook.
More specifically, they joined forces with Help Out Hospo, a donation-based initiative with online courses related to cooking, cocktail making, outdoor grilling and more.
Not only can you purchase one out of general interest, but stood-down hospitality workers can also use them as a means to upskill.
During this time, many people have either found or rediscovered a love of cooking, so Matt has embraced that enthusiasm.
“I was spending more time at home in my kitchen with my family made me want to share that joy with others around Australia,” Matt says.
“I started online cooking classes and doing Zoom for corporates which is something that will continue doing because I really enjoy it.”
The virtual classes are held Fridays at 6pm during which Matt will cook one of his favourite recipes. Each class is $20, and you can get a list of ingredients to purchase so that you can cook along during session. And because it’s done in real-time, you can also ask questions or solicit advice.
“We aren’t out of the woods yet,” Matt says.
“Takeaway food has gotten a lot better because all of us are doing it ….it was good to see people pivoting really quickly and trying new different and different things.”
— mattmoran.com.au/cooking-at-home-with-matt-moran/
CAVALLINO
As images of closed signs slowly fade in the rear-view mirror, you’ll want to race out to Terrey Hills for an evening of authentic Italian food and wines.
At Cavallino, the word translates to “little horse” and is a nod to another notable Italian export, Ferrari, you’ll be greeted as if you were their very first customer, which is far from the truth as no sooner than they opened shop back in March, COVID-19 restrictions were put in place.
“Of all the times to take over a restaurant in Sydney, we did so the day before complete lockdown. So now we’re rejoicing that we can open properly again and welcome people back with our trademark Italian hospitality, a revamped Italian menu, and the first Nardini grappa bar in Australia,” Cavallino’s general manager and creative director Robert Dessanti says.
And to do it in grand style, they’ll also be hosting ‘Discover Italy Through Wine’ dinners.
“People can book a table of 10 for a food and wine masterclass which will feature a different region each week,” he says.
The first dinner will focus on Piemonte, the northwest region of Italy at the foot of the Alps.
Take a seat near the fireplace for an evening of big Italian reds from the Barbera grape variety and true winter warmers including a rabbit ragu, sliced veal with tuna sauce and petite fondue pot filled with a hot garlic dipping sauce. That should keep you going till next week.
— Corner McCarrs Creek Rd & Yulong Ave, Terrey Hills; cavallino.com.au
THE COX BOX
You probably learned a lot about your family in the past couple months, hopefully, that included the bond that’s made sitting at the kitchen table and chatting over dinner.
Now that house guests are no longer off-limits, why not get reacquainted with friends and neighbours over a Sunday roast, specifically one put together by the husband and wife team, Karima and Daniel Cox.
Coming to Sydney from London, Karima explains: “Missing our friends and family back in the UK, a roast dinner was one home comfort that made us feel closer to them. When we started cooking for friends here, they were all quick to tell us that it’s very hard to find roasts like it anywhere in Sydney.”
That planted a seed for their business idea of delivering boxes packed with everything you’d need to make the perfect roast – be it, chicken, beef, pork or lamb.
“We found suppliers who deliver straight from the farms,” she says.
“We can get produce within 24 hours of it being picked.”
Each box comes with all of the ingredients you’ll need from the organic meat to the fresh herbs and spices.
They’ll also let you in on the family recipe which will take you step by step, through the whole process. There are little hints, tips and photos along the way to ensure you’re kept on track.
They have more meals and sides in the works and can comfortably accommodate any dietary requirement.
From there, you just need to remember to pick-up wine. Boxes for two people range from $45 to $49.
Order by 4pm Thursday for weekend delivery. See website for delivery areas and fees.
THE DOLPHIN – FOOD & WINE STORE
There were a few tears when The Dolphin closed its doors to comply with the lockdown restrictions but it was just enough time to finally bring their often discussed wine and food store to fruition.
So, now, not only can you take away several dishes from the restaurant menu, but you can also pick up produce, food products and wine, Monday to Sunday from 12pm to 10pm.
A huge proponent of natural wines, award-winning Sommelier, James Hird has made sure there’s plenty of options to be had.
— 412 Crown St, Surry Hills; dolphinhotel.com.au
CYREN
Now that we’re able to get out and about and Sydney’s famous spots are still relatively quiet, it’s a great time to rediscover your city.
Odds are you may not even be aware of huge changes that have taken place since you last visited, quite possibly, years ago, and a good place to start is Darling Harbour.
If you’ve never indulged in one of those towers of seafood or a platter with lobster, treat yourself to a uniquely Sydney feast at Cyren. In addition to its expansive modern Australian menu, they’ll also be offering some dishes such as the grilled prawns, from their sister-venue, Nick’s Seafood.
— Harbourside Shopping Centre, Level 1, 2-10 Darling Dr, Darling Harbour; nicksgroup.com.au
NOLA SMOKEHOUSE & BAR
After weeks indoors, long summer days feel like a distant memory, and with that, sadly is awareness of the devastating bushfires.
While NOLA Smokehouse and Bar, like most hospitality businesses still reeling from lockdown, they also recognise the double-punch that has affected many of their suppliers so the kitchen team has created a new a la carte and set menu ($85pp) offering, to help support producers in drought and fire affected areas via a trip to New Orleans.
For the set menu, you can start with the likes of Southern Cornbread, jalapeño and cheddar andouille sausage corn dog, followed by Cajun pork shoulder, Black Onyx brisket and mac-n-cheese. Or go a la carte with the Pit-Master’s Pick ($55pp), 50g of four different BBQ meats plus sauces.
You can also pop in for Whiskey Wednesday, and if you’re ready to venture out (or just want to avoid the cold) NOLA still does home delivery Thursday through Saturday.
— Level 1, Tower 1, 100 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo; nolasydney.com
ALIBI BAR & KITCHEN
Sydney-siders have made it clear; Quarantine or not, there will always be a demand for quality plant-based food and Alibi Bar & Kitchen heeded that call.
Their initial abbreviated menu dubbed Ctrl Alt Eat by Alibi (a pseudo “fast food” menu with the likes of Alt Meat Co’s cheeseburger) and more traditional plant-based menu with the Restaurant in Room option proved so popular that it’ll continue to be offered along with their renowned a la carte menu and eight-course tasting menu.
— Ovolo Hotel Woolloomooloo, 6 Cowper Wharf Rd, Woolloomooloo; alibibar.com.au
Originally published as Sydney Eat Street: New eateries finally open for business after lockdown
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