Sydney Eat Street: Explore new dining precinct at Tramsheds
It took more than 60 years but the old Rozelle Tram Depot, which once housed 200 carriages, has been given a new life — this time as a vibrant dining precinct featuring unique eateries from some of Sydney’s noted restaurateurs.
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BODEGA 1904
Even though Ivan Sanchez Arrieta, head chef at Bodega 1904, had worked in kitchens in his native Columbia before moving to Sydney, he admits that he never really felt an affinity for food.
That all changed with one dinner at award-winning restaurant, Bodega, the former Surry Hills institution, where his culinary epiphany came to him in the form of flavours.
“I never knew that food could taste so good. So many different flavours,” says Arrieta, the excitement of that moment still fresh in his mind.
It would take three years, but he finally made his way back to the Latin American-inspired tapas restaurant — a forerunner of Sydney’s burgeoning love affair with share-plate meals — only this time, it was in the kitchen.
He’s since grown with the business, crediting owners Elvis Abrahanowicz and Ben Milgate not just for his culinary skills but also, the passion they exhibit with their cooking.
For Arrieta, flavour remains foremost, only now it’s no longer elusive.
“I love to eat,” he declares.
“A good chef should love to eat. It’s the best way to learn.”
And there’s no better to expand your gourmet teachings than with a selection of South American and Spanish-influenced tapas dishes such as roasted bullhorn peppers, spiced and crispy calamari, chorizo made with pork from LP’s Quality Meats in Chippendale, and one of Arrieta’s (understandable) favourites, the octopus and pork terrine.
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The menus — tapas, dinner, and weekend brunch — are not only seasonal and locally sourced, but also market-fresh in that whatever is available at the weekly onsite Growers Market (or in the Growers Produce Boxes available online) is what will be on the menu.
This set-up suits Arrieta perfectly in that it allows for constant creativity both from him and his team.
No matter what concoction comes from the kitchen, you can bet that the bar has you covered with a variety of cocktails, beers and a range of wines that span the globe.
And should you have taken a liking to the tipple you had with lunch or dinner, they also have an impressive wine shop that sells all the wines on their menu as well as a nice selection of other local, international and organic wines.
Once you experience the flavours at Bodega, there’s no telling where life will take you.
— Shop 15, 1 Dalgal Way, Forest Lodge; bodega1904.com
BUTCHER AND THE FARMER
It’s a true labour of love for farm-to-table focused restaurant Butcher and the Farmer and the menu is devised to encourage diners to share in nature’s bounty, be that from the land, sea or vines.
Heading to your table, it becomes apparent as you pass the onsite butchery and crates of fresh produce that they intend for this message to remain front and centre.
Start off with an order of fish tacos. There are three generously-sized flathead fillets, pickled red cabbage, burnt corn and jalapeño mayo, so while it’s made to share, it can also be a meal on its own.
Same goes for the Butcher’s Burger, 260g of Angus beef, double American cheese, pickles and oak lettuce.
These dishes, “paint a beautiful picture of the diversity of the menu. Each dish is intended to be wholesome, more-ish, and layered with flavours,” says Sean Hall, head of culinary for Seagrass Boutique Hospitality Group and Butcher and the Farmer, adding that by incorporating global tastes into the recipes, “it gives us the opportunity to play with flavours and have some fun”.
Of course, some craft beer and local wines go a long way in helping make the meal all that much merrier.
— Shop 7, 1 Dalgal Way, Forest Lodge; butcherandthefarmer.com/au/
OSAKA TRADING
There is a clue in the name of this bright contemporary restaurant: Osaka. Not only is it one of Japan’s largest cities, but it’s also known as “The Nation’s Kitchen”, a nickname that was bestowed upon it centuries ago as its location served as a central point for shipping goods, including rice throughout the country.
Today though, Osaka, Japan is synonymous with food and the abundance of eateries crowding the alleyways and side streets.
Fortunately for Sydneysiders, that vibrant atmosphere and delectable dishes have arrived at Tramsheds thanks to the crew behind Surry Hills’ small yakitori and cocktail bar, Tokyo Bird.
“Osaka Trading is a modern-Japanese eatery and bar, serving up ramen, donburi rice bowls and shared eats,” says co-owner Tina Wing Kee.
For those keen on the social side of the food scene, definitely opt for an array of Izakaya-style shared eats such as market-fresh sashimi, signature karaage chicken and soft-shell crab baos, then raise an icy cold Asahi beer or yuzu cocktail and toast to good times.
— Shop 18, Tramsheds, 1 Dalgal Way, Forest Lodge; osakatrading.com.au
FLOUR EGGS WATER
It’s the trinity of the culinary world: flour, eggs and water. These three simple ingredients, when in the right hands, can become not just the epicentre of a meal but also that of an entire cuisine.
For Italy, that is pasta and at Flour Eggs Water, the sister restaurant to Darlinghurst’s Italian institution, A Tavola, they’ve perfected the art of fresh hand-made pasta, the perfect foundation for their beautiful sauces such as the pappardelle with lamb, white wine, tomato or ink linguine, mussels, cherry tomato, bottarga, each made with locally sourced ingredients.
Have a seat and watch the masters at work then pick up a pack to use for dinner.
For those, that fancy an Italian feast but just can’t commit to a calendar, try the A Tavola at Home option with nearly ready-to-eat hearty meals such as lasagnes and meatballs along with pantry staples, soups, salads, tiramisu, tap wine, and of course, dry pasta.
Place your order by noon and pick it up the next day. Buon appetito!
— Shop 16, 1 Dalgal Way, Forest Lodge; floureggswater.com.au
GARÇON
Say bonjour to your new favourite Java joint with a fancy for fine wine. This coffee-centric cafe and wine bar cast aside any semblance of French formality, swapping it for a sense of joie de vivre.
“Customer service is at the core (of Garçon). It’s about getting back to traditional good service”, says Garcon’s Paul Sadana, noting however that in this case, tradition is more in line with the optimism and joy of France’s late 19th century Belle Epoque era when service was enhanced with an element of theatre.
“The crepe station is theatre cooking at its best. As the batter is poured onto the hotplates, dramatic steam arises, and our experienced crepe makers work their magic putting delicious savoury and sweet commendations together,” he says.
One example is the banana pecan sweet crepe with Fresh banana, candied pecan pieces and salted caramel sauce or the Fresh banana, candied pecan pieces and salted caramel sauce.
Garçon is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner but you’re equally welcome to linger over a cuppa, cocktail or wine. And new to the venue is their Whitley Neil Gin bar, just in time for a refreshing G&T in the summer sun.
— Tenancy 4, 1 Dalgal Way, Forest Lodge; garcon.com.au
ROLL’D
Everyone has a soft spot for home-cooking but for Bao Hoang, owner and founder of Roll’d, his mum’s is so good that he felt the need to share it with other Sydneysiders.
“I wanted fresh Vietnamese to become the go-to option. I wanted to share my family traditions and shape the way Australian’s interacted with Vietnamese cuisine and culture,” Hoang says.
“As a family we always enjoyed mum’s catering at all our (and many others actually) events, as well as the random lunches and dinners we’d pick up or get delivered during the week.
“When we’d be too lazy to cook, we’d jokingly (but not) say, ‘let’s see what’s on the Mama Hoang menu tonight’.”
This got him thinking that if people wanted something quick such as the ubiquitous sushi rolls, then why not offer them healthy Vietnamese rice paper rolls.
From there Roll’d moved on to include Pho (noodle soups), Banh mi (pork rolls) and more.
“Each of our dishes are inspired by family recipes, from my mum (Mama Hoang) as we want to invite our customers to share in an experience, our culture and traditions. There’s a seat for everyone at our table,” he says.
— Shop 17, 1 Dalgal Way, Forest Lodge; rolld.com.au
GELATO MESSINA
They could have stuck to the typical gelato shop formula: cup, cones and the requisite flavour selection, but there is nothing typical about Gelato Messina.
Sure they have the fan favourites, in fact 35 of their 40 flavours fall into that category, and they’re each made with milk from their dairy, chocolate from their own chocolate making machine, and hazelnuts from their own farm.
Essentially, everything in the shop has been made by them, including the totally funky and fun gelato cakes.
The only elements that have their origin outside of the Roseberry headquarters are those that are part of their ever-changing and OTT collaborations — be it in conjunction with movie promotions, beauty product launches, or local artisanal producers such as Archie Rose Distillery and Pepe Saya Butter.
Wherever there is inspiration to be had, the creative team at Messina is sure to find it and with a visit to their “tram-inspired” fit-out you’re the one that reaps the rewards.
— Shop 3, 1 Dalgal Way, Forest Lodge; gelatomessina.com
REDLINE KITCHEN & TAPHOUSE
It’s a no-waste ethos that drives the offerings at this inner west working brewery which is led by the former team of 3 Weeds Rozelle.
It’s no surprise that craft beers are the beverage of choice with 10 on tap, six of them being their own creation, two of which are brewed on site.
Rather than punt the spent grains chef Leigh McDivitt re-uses them in such menu items as the dry-aged pork sausage roll, one of the scrumptious bi-products of the whole suckling pig he roasts on Friday nights.
It’s a full-on pork fest from there as he prepares it in a variety of different ways, including porchetta, roasted legs, racks and more. So besides having to choose a beer, now you work through the menu as well.
— Shop 8A, 1 Dalgal Way, Forest Lodge; redlinebrewingco.com.au
SAFAR BY BEKYA MIDDLE EASTERN
Sharing is caring and at Safar by BEKYA, they’ve prepared the perfect setting to bring family and friends together for bonding time over delicious Egyptian-influenced Middle Eastern food.
The standout of this cuisine is the marinated grilled meats though the koshari, long considered the country’s national dish, is a must try.
Made with rice, lentils and pasta it’s a reflection of the Italian, Indian and Middle Eastern influences on the Egyptian culture in general.
— Shop 6, 1 Dalgal Way, Forest Lodge; safarmiddleeastern.com.au
BELLES HOT CHICKEN
Rich and sticky barbecue sauces may be finger-licking good, but to Belles Hot Chicken co-owner Morgan McGlone, he take his on the dry side anytime.
Not the chicken itself though, as that is first covered in batter then dropped in one of five bowls filled with dry spices of varying heats.
A bucket of wings is the go, but no meal is complete without a side of mac-n-cheese.
— Shop 19, 1 Dalgal Way, Forest Lodge; belleshotchicken.com
Originally published as Sydney Eat Street: Explore new dining precinct at Tramsheds
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