It was back in May of last year that Hollywood star Angelina Jolie announced that she was foraying into the world of fashion design, trading in the film set for the design studio, with the launch of her eponymous brand Atelier Jolie.

Self-described as a purpose-driven, sustainable label that would use deadstock materials and tap into the skills of “refugees and other talented, under-appreciated groups, with positions of dignity based on skill,” Jolie’s creative new venture first began in June 2023 with a collaboration with Chloé’s former creative director, Gabriela Hearst, on a special capsule collection.

But beyond this collection, we were yet to see the fruits of Atelier Jolie come to life and hadn’t heard much else from the burgeoning designer. Until the 2024 Oscars. Although Jolie herself didn’t appear herself at 96th Academy Awards, her first design made its debut on the crimson carpet, worn by writer, advocate and journalist Suleika Jaouad.

Jaouad attended the Oscars with husband and musician Jon Batiste, who had been nominated in the Best Original Song category for the documentary film American Symphony, in which both Jaouad and Batiste had roles. She wore Atelier Jolie’s first gown for the ceremony. Cut from softly pleated, upcycled silk in a sage green-grey palette, the dress championed a rather simple, demure design. With a panelled bust and high waisted skirt, and matching short sleeve shawl, the result was a modestly elegant look that toed the line between traditional and contemporary. 

Its modern edge came in the form of a printed sumi-e illustration by artist Chaz Guest of an orchestra and its conductor, drawn to depict Batiste himself in honour of American Symphony, spread out across the dress’ train. “This dress was designed by the one-and-only Angelina Jolie,” Jaouad said in a red-carpet interview. “Her first time designing a dress for the red carpet, and she invited the amazing artist Chaz Guest to paint a symphony on the back of it.”

“I have such deep admiration for Suleika and the way she lives her life—how she meets difficulty with strength and grace,” Jolie told Vogue. “[She’s a] brilliant creative force who inspires everyone who knows her. I would have dressed her for anything she needed; It should never be about the dress, but how anything worn feels like an extension of the person.”

“I wanted a look inspired by Suleika’s creativity and her love,” Jolie continued. “She is a painter, and so it felt right to have her gown used as a canvas. Chaz and I have known each other for years, and I knew he would approach this with the dedication and intention needed to feel right.”

Speaking about not just the dress’ homage to Jaouad and Batiste’s work, but Atelier Jolie’s principles around sustainability and creative design, the actress-turned-designer was clearly pleased with how her first dress came together. “It was an exercise in what could be found and used, and for us to be creative. We laid out the panels and discussed where they would fall on her body. Like all projects within the atelier, the goal is to make clothing personal and to be bold and creative together.”

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