Chantay Logan reviews The North Room

CUTTING through the culinary clutter, this new Gold Coast restaurant is a sophisticated small-scale offering from two of the Coast’s top talents.

Lamb dish at The North Room, a new restaurant at Mermaid Beach. Picture: Glenn Hampson

I WON’T pretend I haven’t enjoyed the Coast’s burger boom, but I was pretty darn ready for a restaurant like The North Room to open.

Cutting through the culinary clutter, it’s a sophisticated small-scale offering from two of the Coast’s top talents, Tim and Shannon Stewart.

The North Room, a new restaurant at Mermaid Beach. Owner Shannon Stewart with husband and executive chef Tim Stewart. Picture Glenn Hampson

While they’ve made their mark on some of the Coast’s pre-eminent restaurants (chef Tim is ex-Honeyeater and Seaduction and Shannon ruled the Videre roost), this one is personal.

They’re treating just 28 diners at a time to fine food and polished service in a smart-casual setting.

The beachside restaurant opened just last week and I visited on night two.

Any worry of teething problems evaporates when I’m greeted by Shannon — I can think of restaurants that have been open a decade and never managed to run quite this smoothly.

Espresso Martini at The North Room, a new restaurant at Mermaid Beach. Picture Glenn Hampson

With its refined styling, the white and indigo space erases every trace of former tenant Casa Italia.

The detail is exquisite, from marble bar to copper bucket of blooms, from sleek black cutlery to touchable velvet banquette.

With the sliding glass door closed, any noise from the highway is instantly drowned out by the happy hum of conversation.

First order of business is the accessibly priced wine list. Wrapped in buttery leather, it encourages exploration with an overwhelming majority of boutique-y options by the glass or half-glass.

The flexible share-plate menu is also about gently expanding culinary horizons. While the seasonally-led selection is a showcase for Tim’s skill, there’s nothing to alienate diners among the familiar flavours.

Chicken wings at The North Room, a new restaurant at Mermaid Beach. Picture Glenn Hampson

Around five of the smartly presented plates should do the trick when shared between two diners, or let the chef choose for you for $59 per person.

A smoky flavour and lots of crunchy texture from a tangle of sprouts, seeds and grains add another dimension to deboned chicken wings ($18), while wafers of artichoke skin and roasted chicken cream will make you see squid in a fresh light ($18).

Ridiculously tender beef short rib is the uncontested hero of another dish, but burnt onion, maple jam and cured yolk make it something special ($26).

The fish of the day — bar cod from down the road at Evans Head — is delicately treated with cultured buttermilk and bronze fennel ($26).

A relatively humble cheese course ($11) takes me to my happy place. Subtly sweet and perfectly toasty brioche sandwiches melted comte gruyere and a layer of apple sauce, with a handful of salty crisps on the side. Crusts cut off, of course.

I’ll be back to try dessert.

The North Room is one class act.

The husband and wife duo. Picture Glenn Hampson

The North Room

Shop 1/2527 Gold Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach

Open: Wednesday and Thursday 4pm — late, Friday and Saturday noon — late, Sunday 11am — 4pm

Book it: 0468 311 003