Welcome to the vibrant heart of the Cook Islands.
Muri Lagoon, on the eastern side of the island, is straight out of a travel brochure: aquamarine water, blinding white sand and palm trees. Grab snorkelling gear, a kayak or a stand-up paddle board from your hotel and set out on your own, or tag along with Koka Lagoon Cruises for ukulele singalongs, coconut-husking and all-round good times.
It doesn’t take long to get to know Rarotonga’s main road – a 32km loop. For a different perspective, head out with Storytellers Eco Cycle Tours. Cruising slowly down the island’s quieter byways with a local guide, you’ll get to taste fresh tropical fruits, feed baby goats, learn about local history and life in the Cook Islands today. Tours are $75, take three hours and include lunch.
Christian missionaries reached the Cook Islands two centuries ago and changed the culture forever. Cook Islanders take their religion seriously, so there’s no better way to meet people in the local community than heading to one of Rarotonga’s many churches on a Sunday. You’ll hear beautiful hymns, see great outfits and probably be invited for morning tea with the gang afterwards.
For the most part, you don’t visit the Pacific Islands for the food. The Muri Night Markets, which run from 5pm every Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday, are one of the exceptions to the rules. Dozens of local stalls offer everything from fresh fruit smoothies to heaving plates of barbecue meats. Make sure to try the Seafood Man’s salt and pepper squid, and get there early to avoid the queues.
When you get sick of perfect beaches and the clearest water you’ve ever seen, head into the interior to experience a very different landscape. The most popular hike is the Cross Island Track, a 7.6km slog which takes you up to the spectacular rock formation known as The Needle. Bring proper shoes, let someone know you’re going and don’t hike in the wet. Make sure to have a dip under the waterfall at the end.
The Punanga Nui Market in Avarua, Rarotonga’s “CBD”, sets up every Saturday morning. For such small island, there’s a surprising number of stalls selling everything from fresh food and produce to jewellery, coffee, artisanal beauty products, souvenirs and vintage clothing. It’s a bustling scene and a great place for brunch before activities. Most vendors are cash-only, so bring some NZD.
Eat a three-course dinner, with one course each at three different local houses on the truly unique Progressive Dinner organised by Cook Island tours. Chat with your hosts and gorge on tropical fruit, fresh seafood and more taro than you’ve ever seen in your life. The experience runs at least twice a week and costs $100 per adult. Do not eat lunch beforehand.
The story of how Polynesian voyagers settled Pacific Islands separated by thousands of kilometres of ocean is fascinating and awe inspiring. Find out how they did it and learn about pre-colonial Polynesian culture at the Cook Islands National Museum in Avarua (open weekdays). Then pop across the road to the Beachcomber building for contemporary artworks and a great smoked marlin bagel at the café.
Would it be a beachside holiday without a massage? There’s no shortage of places to bliss out on Rarotonga, and many hotels are fully equipped with spa facilities. For our money, the Essential Spa at Ocean Escape Resort just north of Muri Lagoon is hard to go past. Choose from a selection of aromatherapy oils and relax in the capable hands of the Balinese-trained therapists.
If you think the water in Muri Lagoon is dreamy, wait till you get to Aitutaki, the country’s second biggest island. The waters of this semi-atoll are pure turquoise and it’s quite doable as a day trip, with Aitutaki Day Tours taking care of the 40-minute flight in a small plane, a boat cruise and lunch for $550. Pack your swimmers, obviously.
This writer was a guest of Jetstar and Cook Islands Tourism.
See also:
Inside the Cook Islands’ first art hotel
Cook Islands: World’s most romantic (and affordable) destination
Rarotonga’s untouristed interior reveals a paradise that is lost on most travellers.
Model River Blake flew to meet a man she had been chatting to online for three years, only to be left stranded at the airport.