The Collective pulls off impressive food feat in Palm Beach

AS one of the most ambitious dining developments of the year – one venue, two levels, five kitchens and myriad menus – The Collective could have gone two ways.

Nikki McLennan with a plate of cereal prawns at Umami at the Collective in Palm Beach. Photo: Regi Varghese

AS one of the most ambitious dining developments of the year – one venue, two levels, five kitchens and myriad menus – The Collective could have gone two ways.

Either the owners of the Palm Beach pioneer had bitten off more than they could chew or they were about to pull off a truly impressive food feat.

With lines out the door since their Boxing Day opening, it’s safe to say they’ve accomplished the latter.

While the novelty and holiday hordes may wear off, this is unlikely to be a flash-in-the-pan fascination.

My first visit impressed me on multiple levels.

The theatre from the individual kitchens captures the concept’s food-market roots, with live acts and planned

pop-ups adding to the buzz of a full house.

Chilling out at The Collective. Photo: Regi Varghese

Surveying the action from our rooftop perch, we’re also spoiled with a hinterland sunset and cheeky ocean view.

Diners are handed a single food menu that covers all of the restaurants and are free to order from any or every one of them, along with an equally exciting wine, spirits and cocktail list.

The sheer choice is overwhelming, so if you’re prone to order paralysis, make sure you narrow down the options online first.

A few of the dishes were sold out – not bad in the scheme of 150-odd offerings, but I won’t pretend I’m not devastated that the bao were among them.

With five independently operating kitchens, co-ordinating the delivery of dishes is no mean feat, but even this impatient diner couldn’t fault the rapid flow of food, or the energy and enthusiasm of the wait staff.

There is a $3 fee per diner if you choose to avail yourself of full table service – it’s a tiny blip on a very reasonable bill and includes still or sparkling water.

For the modest market pricing I was expecting cardboard boxes and plastic cutlery, but they deliver restaurant-quality plating.

Here are some highlights from each of the operators:

THE KITCHEN

Falafel served at The Kitchen. Photo: Regi Varghese

A produce-driven menu highlights the melting pot of influence that we know as modern Australian. Think just-shucked oysters topped with champagne pearls (from $10 for three), lemon myrtle crumbed calamari ($14) and six-hour pork belly with apple-cider jus on an Asian slaw ($32). Hawaiian tuna poke is shaping up to be 2017’s answer to acai and The Collective spells out why. Use the garlic en croute to scoop up a satisfying portion of diced, sashimi-grade tuna swirled with a lively mix of shallots, soy, sesame and avocado ($16) – it’s a simple, fresh, addictive take on a hyped health fad and one of the tastiest I’ve tried on the Coast. The falafel balls may have benefited from a tad more seasoning, but the lashings of earthy beetroot and traditional hummus are just what the accompanying triangles of toasted pita ordered ($10). There are two strong candidates for dessert: a zingy deconstructed cheesecake with candied lemon and lemon curd ($12) and silky, rich Nutella pannacotta with oodles of syrupy blueberries and fresh strawberries ($12).

CALAVERA

Start with chorizo balls ($10) – lip-tingling spice in a cheesy, crisp-shelled package. Tacos ($7 each) are hot property – fortunately the kitchen can pump out eight of these babies in a minute. The soft flour tortillas are sold as single serves, so it’s easier to work your way through options of grilled portobello mushrooms, tequila prawns, dry roasted beef, and agave and chipotle glazed pork shoulder. It’s the crisp contrast of beer-battered snapper, slaw and pickles that steals the show.

UMAMI

Delicious hiramasa kingfish at Umami.

What’s a girl to do when she can’t scoff hoisin duck bao ($6)? Stuff a crisp lettuce cup with a cocktail of slow-cooked prawns and peanuts – the san choy bao ($14) is a pretty good consolation prize. Umami’s menu is loaded with flavour-packed street-food favourites: Singapore chilli crab ($24), crispy kung pao chicken ($28), wok-fried XO beef ($22) and tofu red curry ($26).

THE ITALIAN JOB

“Your night is about to get even better,” our waiter declares as he deposits the Al Tartufo ($21) in the centre of our table. The legend that was Bread & Butter Kirra lives on, with the same team making wood-fired wishes come true. The web of melted mozzarella is about the same width as the crisp wafer of a base – a foolproof plan for the perfect pizza. Add aromatic truffle oil and a salty snap of prosciutto and the Al Tartufo lives up to the hype. Specialty Italian dishes are also available, alongside carefully curated cheese and cured meat platters for group grazing.

LUCKIES DINER

The chicken deluxe burger at Luckies Diner.

They’re singing the same all-American anthem as Mermaid’s Easy Street Diner, right down to the signature red baskets. Think classic burgers ($12), pork belly nuggets ($9) and salty, saucy fries drowning in melting cheese, maple pork and crispy bacon ($14). The light batter on the chicken wings (from $9) is a southern-fried surprise.

SPECIALTY FOOD

Forget hunting for those depressingly sparse symbols - vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free diners aren’t an afterthought at The Collective, with each of the kitchens contributing to separate, sizeable menus. It’s a breakthrough for those with dietary dictates, but I’ll take any excuse to feast on tequila-splashed ocean trout ceviche ($14) or burgers in a bowl. Kids are covered too, with many of the popular dishes available in pint-sized portions.

THE COLLECTIVE: 1128 Gold Coast Highway, Palm Beach

Book it: thecollectivepalmbeach.com.au