Restaurant review: Rick Shores, Burleigh

A NEW tenant for the Coast’s most high-profile restaurant site was a long time coming — but is Rick Shores worth the wait?

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IT’S A balmy Burleigh evening. The sand is still sizzling, but the breeze straight off the ocean is almost as refreshing as taking a dip.

Sipping a lemon-tinged martini, I’m watching the waves while the setting sun paints the sky pastel.

It’s one of those moments you congratulate yourself for having the very good taste to live on the Gold Coast.

The most sought-after slice of the Burleigh beachfront is officially back in business for diners.

While new-kid-on-the-block Rick Shores isn’t what I was expecting, I was pleasantly surprised by the fitout.

A delicious dish at Rick Shores.

The restaurant’s split levels flow towards the tide, from open kitchen and bar to a dining area with simple dark timber tables, bentwood chairs and caged tealight candles.

They’ve resisted the temptation to sardine in the seats, with plenty of breathing room to support the minimalistic aesthetic of palms and polished concrete.

There are no tables for two; couples are seated next to each other at a long bench in the centre of the restaurant, the bonus being no squabbles over who gets to face the ocean.

While groups of eight or more are asked to dine banquet style, we explore the menu free-range.

A large portion of the bar snacks (which are sold in single portions and double as starters) are unavailable due to delivery issues, including the cuttlefish popcorn ($9), betel leaf with fried tofu ($4.50) or soft-shelled crab ($5), and barbecue roasted duck baos ($5).

A dish at Rick Shores.

That said, I was very impressed with the food I did try — it’s inventive enough to intrigue real foodies, without sacrificing the essence of modern Asian cuisine.

From the bar snacks, I recommend the fried bug layered with hot ’n’ sour slaw on a soft white roll ($9), while the star of the salads is a balanced, zingy combination of poached prawn, fried pork, pineapple, sesame oil, rice paddy herb and peanuts ($21).

It may be among the mildest on the menu, but the building heat of a yellow curry ($34) sneaks up on me. It doesn’t mask the beautifully complex flavours of king prawn, turmeric, coconut and Kaffir lime leaf — it’s just enough fire to brand you with the memory.

If you do go for something bolder, there’s vanilla and miso soft serve with salted caramel popcorn ($9) to soothe the senses.

A delicious dish at Rick Shores.

My dessert was simply stunning — a sophisticated melding of sweet and salty in chargrilled mango, condensed milk caramel and sticky rice ice cream ($14).

I’ve taken points off what would otherwise have been a solid service score to reflect the reservations process.

We first tried our luck at Rick Shores by turning up as soon as the doors opened for dinner on a Sunday — the information online said they only accepted reservations for six or more people (since updated to “Bookings available before 6.30pm”).

We waited in line, watching as other duos who’d mysteriously managed to book a table, were shown to their seats, before being told they were full for the night.

I’m not opposed to walk-in policies if they are managed well — this is not … and it’s not even really their policy. Or maybe it is. Confused? I was.

There was no offer to take my number and call when a seat became available. Could I call to check when they might be able to accommodate me? No, there’s no phone.

So I just have to drive all the way here, put my plans on hold, and hope for the best?

Despite the online advice to the contrary, I’m told, completely unapologetically, I should have made a reservation by emailing.

Can you book me in now for Tuesday night then? No, you’ll have to email.

Since email is apparently assumed to be universally convenient, I agreed to play the game a little longer and emailed while I was standing out the front.

I eventually received confirmation with the following clause: “To get this show on the road, we ask for you to arrive 15 minutes prior to your booking in order to ensure your table. Due to the style and nature of Rick Shores, we do have to let you know that our tables are reserved for two hours only, but we advise you to enjoy kick-ins seated at our gorgeous bar.”

When we obediently arrived at 5.15pm they were still setting up the restaurant. We waited at the bar until we could be seated at 5.32pm.

Perhaps they just wanted to see how high we’d jump for the privilege of a table.

Fortunately, the service was efficient enough that we made it through three courses without being booted to the bar.

I’ve had readers contact me with similar complaints.

This isn’t New York. It’s not even Sydney … and we don’t want to be.

While the tourists are on tap in summer, most Gold Coast eateries live or die by their local support.

And, with this attitude, Rick Shores risks its business walking across the road, or to the many other worthy restaurants where it’s genuinely valued.

RICK SHORES

43 Goodwin Terrace, Burleigh Heads

Book: [e-mail]

Open: Tuesday to Sunday for lunch from noon and dinner from 5.30pm