Sydney’s eastern suburbs best established and up-and-coming chefs
Pigs ears, camel and green ants are among the eyebrow-raising ingredients used by some of the best established and up-and-coming chefs of Sydney’s eastern suburbs. Find out what makes them so successful.
Wentworth Courier
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They’ve watered tastebuds in restaurants around the world, but some of the top chefs of Sydney’s eastern suburbs say they can’t beat their mum’s homemade spaghetti.
Others are newer to the dining game, impressively self-trained and have already mastered the use of controversial ingredients like pigs ears, camel and green ants.
What they all share is the title of head chef at some of the most popular restaurants of Sydney’s glitzy eastern suburbs.
Here, they reveal their secrets to success, the challenges of their jobs and their signature dishes. They’ve proved a chef never sleeps, but who said they never spill?
Raphael Szurek – Head chef at Black Bottle, Darlinghurst (Mediterranean)
Where were you born, where did you grow up and how did you know you wanted to become a chef? I was born in Paris and grew up in a “foodie family”. My mum and dad are amazing home cooks and my grandfather was a butcher! From going to the market every Wednesday with my mum to watching my dad cook to sitting in the kitchen to do my homework, I have always surrounded myself with food.
How long have you been cooking professionally for? I started at 17 years old, so 20 years.
Where have you worked? I have worked in Paris, China, Hong Kong, Korea, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, India and Australia. Each local cuisine experience, trip and meeting with other chefs has made me grow into the chef I am today. I have been very fortunate to have travelled.
How would you define your style? I like to focus on the product by sourcing amazing quality ingredients and let them speak for themselves. It is all about the honesty and simplicity in the plate but also the authentic taste of the food.
What is your signature dish? At Black Bottle, our customers come back for our kingfish crudo and our Fremantle octopus — two dishes that I love and that have been following me around. The first one combines hiramasa kingfish, avocado and Yarra Valley Salmon Roe and is all about freshness. The second highlights the amazing octopus sourced from Western Australia — braised then charred, melting in the mouth and full of flavours!
What’s a menu item or ingredient you love that’s perhaps a little controversial? I love chocolate! Recently we did a full menu with it, even all the savory dishes. It is such a complex, beautiful and versatile ingredient.
What makes you stand out as a chef? More than cooking, I love to teach and train younger chefs to become the best version of themselves. Our job is all about sharing knowledge and letting people grow. It brings me great joy and satisfaction to see some of the people that have worked under me be successful. I love to create and know you are always as good as the last meal you have served, so it is all about continuously questioning yourself to be better.
What are the best and hardest parts about your job? The best part is when customers tell us they have enjoyed their meal. We do this job to make people happy. There isn’t really a hard part! When you love what you do, it is always fun.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be? Playing in an underground jazz club.When I was a teenager I played a lot of music, especially jazz and bass. I have always loved playing and I wish we had a piano in Black Bottle – maybe one day!
What’s your favourite home cooked meal? A home cooked plate of spaghetti bolognaise with a lot of cheese! Even after 20 years of cooking, I come close but not as good as my mum’s.
Marco Chiarazzo — Head chef at Maccheroni, Woollahra (Italian)
How long have you been cooking professionally for? 20 years.
Where have you worked? Naples, Ibiza, London, Canberra, Sydney.
How would you describe your style? Contemporary Italian.
What is your signature dish? Scialatielli Potato & Cozze.
What’s a menu item or ingredient you love that’s perhaps a little controversial? Pistachio and olsson salt in seafood dishes.
What makes you stand out as a chef? My capacity to bring a team together to create better food.
What are the best and hardest parts about your job? The creativity (best) and the muscle pain as you get older (worst)
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be? A carpenter.
What’s your favourite home cooked meal? Pasta al Pomodoro.
David Spanner — Head chef at The Botanica Vaucluse (Modern Australian)
Where were you born, where did you grow up and how did you know you wanted to become a chef? I was born in Zimbabwe and moved to Australia when I was three years old. My start in the kitchen was the classic story of loving to cook, but also seemed to be a great opportunity to travel as it’s a job you can do anywhere in the world. At the time I was really into surfing and the hours meant I could surf in between split shifts!
How long have you been cooking professionally for? 34 years
Where have you worked? Paris, Barcelona, San Francisco, London, Edinburgh, Manchester, Melbourne, Adelaide and Sydney.
How would you define your style? Being classically trained in my younger years in five-star hotels really was the foundation of my cooking career. From there, moving around the world and learning different techniques and styles has lead me to much more of an eclectic style of cooking.
What is your signature dish? On our current menu at The Botanica, my signature would have to be the Japanese Karokke, a Japanese croquette with vegetables, edamame and haloumi, rolled in panko crumbs and fried. It was actually working for a Tasmanian owner in Manchester, UK, that the recipe came about. We wanted to bring the Asian influence that Australia is so familiar with to England. I love that an Asian dish created in the UK is now being enjoyed on my home soil.
What’s a menu item or ingredient you love that’s perhaps a little controversial? Fois gras. Offal, pigs ears, Edinburgh. Camel.
What makes you stand out as a chef? The knowledge and experience gained from the variety of countries I’ve worked in.
What are the best and hardest parts about your job? Best is that in essence you are your own boss. You create menus from scratch with whatever inspires you. I love that freedom. Worst has to be sacrificing the weekends and missing out on events with friends and family.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be? Journalist. Or any job where I could travel.
What’s your favourite home cooked meal? Anything that someone else cooks for me!
Agus Andrean — Head chef at The Boatshed, La Perouse (Seafood)
Where were you born, where did you grow up and how did you know you wanted to become a chef? I was born in North Sumatra, Medan, Indonesia. Growing up, I always watched my parents cook, and knew I had an interest from a young age. I would ask many questions and always offer to help them. When it was time to pick a career, it was a no-brainer to me what I wanted to do.
How long have you been cooking professionally for? Five years.
Where have you worked? I started my career at The Sydney Fish Market Cafe and have made my way to becoming the head chef of The Boatshed La Perouse.
How would you define your style? I’d say modern with an Asian twist. Since coming to Australia, I’ve always loved bringing the Asian fusion to my meals.
What is your signature dish? Seafood is where my passion lies. I’d consider all my dishes to be equal in quality, so I wouldn’t say I have a particular signature dish. However, if you see me making seafood, you know it will be next level.
What’s a menu item or ingredient you love that’s perhaps a little controversial? Not necessarily anything. All my dishes are used with ingredients and spices that have an Asian twist to them, however, I wouldn’t say they’re controversial.
What makes you stand out as a chef? I’m extremely passionate. I put my whole heart into every dish I make, no matter who it’s for. I take my role very seriously and if the quality of food is not up to my standard, I will refuse to serve it. My food is everything to me.
What are the best and hardest parts about your job? The hardest part about being a chef is the lack of time I get for myself. It’s an extremely demanding job, however it’s incredibly rewarding, which takes me to the best parts of this job. I love watching my customers enjoy my food. Feedback is everything to me, and to know I have made an incredible meal for someone gives me a feeling like no other.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be? I would have loved to pursue my career as a football player. Since I was six years old I was playing in Indonesia and growing up I knew if I was given the chance, I would make it far. But my parents didn’t see football as a career, so I had to let it go.
What’s your favourite home cooked meal? Hong Kong style steamed fish. It’s my absolute favourite to make!
Ken Pongsakorn — Head chef at Soi 25 Restaurant and Bar, Darlinghurst (Fusion)
Where were you born, where did you grow up and how did you know you wanted to become a chef? I was born in Nan Province Thailand. I wanted to become a chef by reading cooking recipes passed down from generations and watching my mum cook as a child.
How long have you been cooking professionally for? 16 years
Where have you worked? Long Chim (previous employment). Soi 25 Restaurant (current).
How would you define your style? Using Authentic Thai cuisine and transforming it into audacious fusion food with ambitious techniques while respecting the authenticity of Thai Cuisine.
What is your signature dish? Seared Hokkaido Scallops with watermelon & chilli lime sauce
What’s a menu item or ingredient you love that’s perhaps a little controversial? Dried curry paste and strong aromatic herbs from Thailand.
What makes you stand out as a chef? I cook with passion and heart. The secret to my cooking techniques are preparation. I believe preparation is what makes a memorable taste experience.
What are the best and hardest parts about your job? The best part of being a chef is witnessing the customer enjoy my food with family and friends and the smiles on their faces. The hardest part is finding people who understand and have the similar cooking passion for Thai Cuisine. Thai food is simple yet complicated to master. One small mistake can ruin the whole dish. I am extremely meticulous with cooking.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be? This is a hard one. Maybe I’d be a stay-at-home dad, look after my daughter and cook for the family.
What’s your favourite home cooked meal? Thai BBQ Beef Salad (extra spicy)
Lisa Nicholson — Head chef at Bon Vin, Darlinghurst (French)
How did you know you wanted to become a chef? Watching my grandmother cook French food.
How long have you been cooking professionally for? It feels like 100 years! Around 35 years.
Where have you worked? Level 41 (3 hat at the time), Regent Hotel, Renaissance, Hilton, London, Canada, Japan, James Beard Foundation
How would you define your style? Modern or Contemporary
What is your signature dish? Hands down Duck confit ravioli with truffle beurre fondue
What’s a menu item or ingredient you love that’s perhaps a little controversial? Fat, fat and fat. I use all the meat fat and drippings from stocks and cooking meats. I use a lot of the beef, lamb and duck fat actually in sauces, not just in cooking. I never throw out any animal fat. And of course, butter. I try to avoid vegetable oils.
What makes you stand out as a chef? Our hidden location underground serves against us (we have no street presence) but also works for us. Its everyone’s hidden secret and of course the sauces make it all happen.
What is the hardest part about your job? 18-hour days and getting staff at the moment.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be? A sommelier
What’s your favourite home cooked meal? My grandmother’s chicken pot-au-feu.
Insup Kim — Head chef at Jung Sung Contemporary Korean, Chippendale
Where were you born, where did you grow up and how did you know you wanted to become a chef? I was born in Seoul, Korea. I enjoyed cooking for my friends and family when I was in elementary school and I decided to go culinary school.
How long have you been cooking professionally for? I started cooking in a Korean restaurant in New Jersey in 2007 and my fine dining experience started in 2008 in New York.
Where have you worked? I have worked at Del posto (2 Michelin star), A voce (1 Michelin star), The Plaza Food hall Plaza hotel in New York. Also, Altitude restaurant in Shangri-La Hotel Sydney, and more than six years as Sous chef and Chef de Cuisine.
How would you define your style? Contemporary Korean, which is based on French and modern cuisine techniques. It combines traditional Korean cooking methodology and fermentation with Modern Australian flavours and seasonal native ingredients
What is your signature dish? Moreton bay bug two ways, one is poached in brown butter and second is soy marinated Bibimbab
What’s a menu item or ingredient you love that’s perhaps a little controversial? Fresh seasonal ingredients such as ramp and white asparagus in spring, mushrooms and artichoke in autumn, truffle and fig in winter, and seasonal seafood and meats.
What makes you stand out as a chef? I love being and working in a kitchen and restaurant. Also, I’m addicted to that feeling of satisfaction after extremely busy service.
What are the best and hardest parts about your job? The best part is that I do what I love and want to do as a job. Not many people can say that! The hardest thing is always working under pressure in a busy environment with a knife and fire.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be? I’ve never thought about that. Maybe a police officer.
What’s your favourite home cooked meal? Barbecuing fresh meats and vegetables.
Sam Overton — Chef-owner at Bootleg Italian, Paddington
Where were you born, where did you grow up and how did you know you wanted to become a chef? I was born in Portsmouth in the UK. I grew up in a few places, including London, Wales and Chichester. I moved to Australia 18 years ago. I’ve always loved cooking, like passionately loved it, especially working with flavour and textures. I loved it so much I never actually wanted to do it as a job. I was scared that I would end up hating cooking if I had to do it and it wasn’t for love.
How long have you been cooking professionally for? Asfar back as I can remember. First jobs were in bakeries and kitchens. But as the chef for my one business, about three or four years.
How would you define your style? All my venues are plant-based. I’m proving to the world that vegan food isn’t s**t. I take traditionally non-vegan food and make it vegan. I have to get the colours, texture and flavour right! It’s a huge challenge but I love it. Having obsessive compulsive disorder and attention-deficit/hyperactivity disorder is a blessing and a curse!
What is your signature dish? I’d say the truffle arancini and the vodka rigatoni at Bootleg.
What’s a menu item or ingredient you love that’s perhaps a little controversial? I’d say miso and Vegemite. I use these two ingredients to add umami flavours to dishes. Also, the meat and cheese replacements on my menu.
What makes you stand out as a chef? The fact I’m not a trained chef and break all the rules. I go about it my own way with no limitations as I literally make it all up. Also, the fact I make seriously legit traditional Italian food that’s all vegan.
What are the best and hardest parts about your job? Again, making everything vegan. The salami at Bootleg took me eight months to get right. Also, you seriously wouldn’t know the ricotta’s vegan. My food has to look, taste and feel right. I can’t just open a tub and use something, I have to make everything from scratch.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be? Well before being a chef I was a successful hairdresser and was flown all over the world to present and educate and for photo shoots and shows.
What’s your favourite home cooked meal? I do around 100 hours a week at Bootleg so am not home that often. But I’d say the tacos I make, or actually my housemate Felix’s couscous salad. It’s incredible how he does it!
Lucinda Khan — Head chef at Merisse, Potts Point (French)
Where were you born, where did you grow up and how did you know you wanted to become a chef? I was born in Sydney Australia and have grown up here my whole life. My love for cooking started at a young age being in the kitchen with my parents. I used to stand and watch what they were creating together and when I was old enough I started to try out dishes on my own. My father is a renowned chef (Opel Khan) and he taught me the fundamentals of cooking.
How long have you been cooking professionally for? Five years.
Where have you worked? Four venues in Sydney: Palace Hotel, Pizza Boccone, Acqua E Farina, Metisse
How would you define your style? Innovative, technical and elegant.
What is your signature dish? The Mosaique. Three types of fish, bound together by a secret ingredient. Everyone always asks me for the recipe but it is something I will never share.
What‘s a menu item or ingredient you love that’s perhaps a little controversial? Menu item: Texture of tomato. A dish that looks like a fluffy marshmallow that tastes like a tomato. There are five elements to the dish and we use the whole product. It is a 100 per cent sustainable dish as we use every single element of the tomato. Tomato marshmallow, tomato sorbet, tomato crumble and tomato chip.
What makes you stand out as a chef? I am a young, ambitious chef. I challenge people’s perceptions of what fine dining is and what it takes to be a chef. I also am a 22 year old female head chef in a very male dominated industry.
What are the best and hardest parts about your job? The hours. Working as a chef is challenging, especially trying to balance a personal and professional life. I love what I do, so it does not feel like work, however the long hours start to take a toll on your body from a young age.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be? An Artist. I am very creative, and I create many dishes based off art. I love the synergy between creating a piece of art and creating a memorable dish that others can enjoy.
What’s your favourite home cooked meal? I love to make a traditional Bangladeshi curry, this is my comfort food. I love to cook comfort food that my parents made me when I was growing up.
Emile Avramides — Chef-owner at Clove Lane Randwick (Modern Australian)
Where were you born, where did you grow up and how did you know you wanted to become a chef?
Born in Sydney, moved to Melbourne as an eight-year-old. I always enjoyed cooking from a young age, but I started working front of house while at uni, and was helping out the kitchen one day and loved it. Started my apprenticeship and never looked back.
How long have you been cooking professionally for? 18 years
Where have you worked? Fishers in the city, Edinburgh, The Albion, London, Gordon Ramsays Maze, London & Melbourne, The Point Albert Park, Melbourne, Cutler & Co, Melbourne and I’m currently at Clove Lane, Sydney.
How would you define your style? Produce-driven.
What is your signature dish? Honey and cumin glazed BBQ spatchcock with sweet corn puree, charred corn.
What’s a menu item or ingredient you love to use that’s perhaps a little controversial? I used to use foie gras all the time, but not anymore.
What makes you stand out as a chef? I’m passionate about the industry and I love the energy of service. Also, I worked front of house so I have an understanding of what the floor staff endure.
What are the best and hardest parts about your job? The best is meeting lots of people from around the world, and being an integral part of someone’s special occasion. The hardest part is time management and still being involved in family events and celebrations when being busiest at work on the weekends.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be? Drummer in a rock band.
What’s your favourite home cooked meal? Mum’s Lasagne.
Marcello Arru — Head chef at The Apollo, Potts Point (Greek)
Where were you born, where did you grow up and how did you know you wanted to become a chef? I grew up in Sardinia, Italy. Cooking has always been an important part of my life. Every weekend, more than 40 members of my extended family and friends would get together and everyone participated. We would cook lamb, suckling pig and seafood over the charcoal grill, and my mother and grandmother would hand-make bread and pasta. I learned from my family and always knew that I wanted to be a chef.
How long have you been cooking professionally for? I studied hospitality and graduated when I was 18. From there, I moved to the UK to start my career and spent 18 months working in a French restaurant (Quaglinos) before moving to the French Caribbean. After two years working in a fine-dining Italian restaurant there, I decided to move to Australia 11 years ago. I worked in many different restaurants in Sydney before taking on a Sous Chef role at The Apollo, where I have now been head chef for the past year.
How would you define your style? Simple and classic. I like to accentuate the main ingredients of a dish and not overcomplicate. By combining my passion for cooking over charcoal with new techniques, such as sous vide, I am able to emphasise quality ingredients. It’s simple and tasty!
What is your signature dish? The Apollo is known for its saganaki, but my favourite dish is charcoal chicken with eggplant. We cook most of our proteins this way, and alongside reminding me of my upbringing, it adds extra depth to each dish.
What is a menu item or ingredient that you love that’s perhaps a little controversial? I actually eat very healthily. In my family, everything was handmade – I didn’t even try McDonald’s until I was 18! However, when I’m cooking a lentil soup or minestrone, I like to start off with a couple of teaspoons of soy sauce because it’s less salty and adds umami.
What makes you stand out as a chef? Having grown up in a family where everything was made from scratch, even our daily bread, I carry this knowledge with me. We used to butcher the animals we ate as well as make our own olive oil, cheese and wine. In each kitchen I work in, as much as I possibly can, I keep these traditions alive and share my knowledge of the craft – both professionally with other chefs, and as dishes for people to enjoy in a restaurant setting.
What are the best and hardest parts about your job? I have enjoyed cooking since I was a kid, so the best part of my job is being able to do this everyday. Working in a kitchen, you get the opportunity to travel and meet new people from different countries and backgrounds who are willing to learn. Every day we try new things, and experience both failure and success. I’m surrounded by people with great stories who live life fully.
The hardest part of my job is working long hours. The lifestyle isn’t the conventional ‘norm’ so sometimes I miss out on being with my friends and family.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be? I grew up on a small island and the ocean has always been an important part of my life. I love water, and I love to surf, so perhaps a fisherman (if not a professional surfer).
What’s your favourite home cooked meal? I love a simple pizza with eggplant and Italian sausage. Or a simple margherita. I could eat it everyday for a month straight – it’s always good.
Alex Prichard — Head chef at Icebergs Dining Room & Bar Bondi (Italian)
How did you know you wanted to become a chef? I was born in Kurrajong, in the Blue Mountains, NSW. I knew I wanted to become a chef around the age of 14 when I did work experience in some fantastic venues around Kurrajong.
How long have you been cooking professionally for? Around 12 years
Where have you worked? Hugos Group under Massimo Mele, Momofuku under Ben Greeno and Clayton Wells, Ananas under Paul Mcgrath and Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, The Dolphin Hotel, Bondi Beach Public Bar, Belongil Beach Italian Food (all under Maurice Terzini)
How would you define your style? Food that tells a story of a time and place, be that the past or present. Time and place for me is critical in all food and how we select our produce. For instance, if I’m cooking by the water, in autumn in Bondi, I want food that you should feel good about eating by the ocean and food that comes from close to where we are.
What is your signature dish? I don’t know if I have a single signature dish. If I had to say one thing I could do forever and never grow tired of it, it would be crudo. You can spend your whole life preparing and dressing raw fish and every day it will change, you will learn something new and it will challenge you.
What’s a menu item or ingredient you love that’s perhaps a little controversial? Green ants probably. They are delicious little pops of citrus, kind of like finger lime. We use them on crudo, on the top of a vacherin which is a dessert of meringue, citrus and cream.
What makes you stand out as a chef? I think a genuine curiosity with everything to do with food, from the way it’s grown, to how it’s handled, to how we prepare it in the restaurant, then finally how it is served and eaten. There isn’t a single part of a food journey I don’t want to know or think about how it can be made better.
What are the best and hardest parts about your job? The best part is seeing enjoyment from guests and the team when they try something new or exciting or something that makes them really enjoy the moment. One of the hardest parts is having people understand the importance of every single detail and teaching people that no one ever really learns straight away. It’s the kind of thing that a chef who has worked with me for a while will come back and say to me after they have left and seen different things. They will say: “I get it now: everything is everything”.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be? Probably a horticulturist or a farmer of some kind. I like working with my hands and then seeing how every detail along the way effects the end product. It keeps you learning and intrigued.
What’s your favourite home cooked meal? My wife Angie has recently gone down a southern US adventure in food. She makes an incredible jambalaya, which I absolutely love. She also does a mean gumbo. Stay tuned for the crawfish boil.
Mark Williamson— Head chef at Bistro Moncur, Woollahra (French)
How did you know you wanted to become a chef? I was born and grew up in Christchurch New Zealand. I wanted to be a chef from a very young age as it was profession that started to gain a lot more attention when I was leaving school. Chefs like Gordon Ramsay were beginning to make a name for themselves.
How long have you been cooking professionally for? I have now been cooking for 21 years professionally.
Where have you worked? After gaining my qualifications I left New Zealand having work in JDV, I left to travel and landed in in the UK where I spent three years working at various venues. In 2006 I moved to Australia, working at The Tilbury Hotel before moving to Applejack Hospitality. In May of 2016 I started at Bistro Moncur and took over as head chef in September 2016.
How would you define your style? Classical French Bistro
What is your signature dish? My chefs would probably say something involving seafood and pork.
What’s a menu item or ingredient you love that’s perhaps a little controversial? Tripe always gets a funny look from people.
What makes you stand out as a chef? Precise measurements. Always use the metric system! Also, insisting on using the best and freshest ingredients.
What is the best part about your job? It is dynamic, exciting and comes with challenge after challenge. When we pull together as a team, it is very fulfilling.
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