Backpacker shortage changes Hunter Valley wine harvest

Hunter Valley wineries have had mixed fortunes over the past few seasons and continuing Covid dramas mean old school harvesting will be scaled back again — but there’s still hope for a big year.

Audrey Wilkinson head winemaker Zamthe Hatcher

Hunter Valley wineries are gearing for their busiest time of the year.

Audrey Wilkinson head winemaker Zamthe Hatcher is in her element. It’s getting close to showtime where she calls the shots on what grapes to harvest first and how and when it’s done.

“There’s a bit of pressure because of the weather mainly,” Hatcher said. “My plans always change throughout the picking period. It’s more about when to hand pick or when to bring machinery in to do the job.”

Hand-picking is most vigneron’s preferred option as you can find quality over quantity. Audrey Wilkinson uses a fifty-fifty mix when it comes to harvest.

A lack of backpackers in Australia due to Covid-19 has meant the old-fashioned way of doing things will be scaled back in many vineyards.

Audrey Wilkinson head winemaker Zamthe Hatcher. Picture: Supplied

“Our contractor believes we have enough but we are always looking for more. If you’re going to be anywhere to pick grapes you may as well be at this place. The scenery and outlook are stunning. It’s a good place to come to work.”

President of the Hunter Valley Wine and Tourism Association Stu Horden agrees the short-fall of labour could be an issue.

“Most producers are reliant on contractors for both handpicking or machine harvesting, some of the smaller guys don’t have the capacity to run a crew or own their own equipment,” Horden said.

“It is a problem this year but it’s something we’ll get through. Early varieties like Chardonnays will come off the vines late this week- early next and then Semillon and Verdelho off by the end of January. Reds won’t be touched until early February.”

Most wineries in the Pokolbin area have battled through the Covid pandemic but in many cases, support payments have given some the opportunity to upskill employees.

“Brokenwood Wines have a cellar door worker who was re-deployed to pruning and tying down vines, while I heard that another employee enrolled in a wine-makers course. It was the perfect time for some to re-set,” Horden said.

Hunter vineyards have had vastly mixed season over the past few years.

Covid aside, the Hunter vineyards have had a few up and down years in the past as bushfire smoke and drought made 2020 a right-off, while good lead-in rain saw 2021 produce a pleasing final product for most.

This year it’s anyone’s guess.

Christina Tulloch, CEO of Tulloch Wines, says the weather has played a significant part in their decision-making.

“We had a few hiccups with late frosts and hail around Christmas and that is reflecting in tonnage in some vineyards,” she said.

“It’s a matter of seeing how the weather turns out. There’s predicted rain. We were going to start this week but we’ll now put it off until next Monday. We only need a few warm days and it’ll be ok.”