Cafe review: The Wooden Whisk, St Leonards
The Wooden Whisk in St Leonards is a popular haunt for locals weekends.
THE Wooden Whisk dress code slips seamlessly from weekday office worker to more casual weekend attire.
Although Saturday morning brunch still throws up a couple of distinct styles at this Albany St cafe.
One look is locals dressed in brightly-coloured active wear; the other is tulle and spangles favoured by preschool princesses. Even the cafe staff sport neat, dark aprons tied over gingham shirts. But if you’re not channelling check, Lycra or sequins, it doesn’t matter.
The Wooden Whisk is one of those city crowd-pleasers that caters for all tastes with its cafe favourites and chosen local suppliers.
Surry Hills roaster Single O provides the coffee. The house special blend of beans comes from Santa Ana, El Salvador, Sumatra and India. There are also single origins with tasting notes pinned to the front counter. Current roasts for espresso drinkers come from Rwanda, Kenya and Ethiopia. Non coffee-drinkers have a selection of Chamellia Organic teas, frappes, and smoothies, or freshly squeezed vegetable and fruit juices.
For something different, hot chocolate and fragrant Earl Grey tea from the drinks specials may sound like strange bedfellows, but are surprisingly compatible for an afternoon pick-me-up.
Chalkboard specials feature winter comfort food like oatmeal with poached rhubarb and pear. The main breakfast menu has staples like Bircher muesli or lighter eats such as the lean green bowl filled with avocado, kale, broccoli and asparagus. Avo on toast is a no-brainer, but bland — even when it’s jazzed up with pea puree, mint, feta and toasted almonds on rye.
Two hearty dishes push breakfast boundaries beyond brunch. Crispy chickpeas and chilli kale with roast pumpkin, sunflower seeds, golden hummus, quinoa and soya toast nails the trend for plant-based eating. It’s got plenty of flavour, bags of colour and a blip of heat. Two protein options — poached egg or grilled salmon — take it away from being vegan. Eggs Benedict takes on a naughtier twist thanks to the addition of pulled pork, apple cider hollandaise, potato hash and pickled red cabbage to cut through the richness. This dish ticks that special occasion, weekends-only box.
The lunch menu trumpets a variety of salads, bowls and burgers, as well as seven gourmet sandwiches. Choices include Italian veal and pork meatballs, provolone and rocket, Asian pulled pork with cabbage and mint slaw and a New York-style Reuben.
The Wooden Whisk changed hands earlier in the year. Co-owner Wilson Sun doesn’t plan to give the menu a shake up as things are ticking along nicely.
“Good coffee, good food and service make a good cafe,” he said. “If you have those, customers will come back.”
Accordingly, The Wooden Whisk is now open on Sundays for the weekend crowd to return with or without Princess Elsa in tow.
The Verdict: ****
The Price: $$$
The Wooden Whisk
Shop 7-8/38-46 Albany St, St Leonards.
Phone: 8065 0758.
Open: Daily. Weekdays, from 6am-4pm; Sat, 6.30am-3.30pm; Sun, 7.30am-3pm.
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