Review: Zeus Greek Street opens 10th restaurant in Balgowlah

Since Zeus Greek Street opened in Balgowlah, there’s no need to head over the bridge for Greek food.

A taste of the Aegean, Zeus Greek Street has opened in Balgowlah.

• Top tipples for Christmas lunch
• Review: burger time in Dee Why

Zeus Street Greek makes a marathon effort with its Hellenic branding and community spirit.

Balgowlah is number 10 — the first opened in Drummoyne June 2014 — in what has fast-become a popular addition to suburban eateries.

Take Give is the community side of the operation. When Zeus opened this spring, it chose to support Bear Cottage with a pita giveaway.

Back to business, and Zeus Street Greek’s food is displayed on flyer-style menus, with dishes named after city states, gods and what could easily be a selection of friends and relations.

Then there’s its food philosophy valuing quality, sustainability and integrity. And what better way to introduce this concept than with three stony-faced philosophers?

Zeus has eight different pita combos on the menu.

The philosophers’ zone of Aristotle, Plato and Sophocles grace the coasters of this funky eatery. Rather than going down the let’s-do-that-signature-blue-and white-Greek-theme-to-death, Balgowlah’s interior is a good-looking mix of industrial inner city.

But what Aristotle and Co would have made of sitting on Balgowlah Rd woofing down the signature pita, Uncle Tzimmy, tzatziki dribbling down their beards, is anyone’s guess.

This carb-loaded wrap is packed with a choice of lamb, chicken or pork, tzatziki, onion, paprika and chips.

It comes highly recommended by the chirpy staff member behind the counter, and promises so much. But it doesn’t quite deliver; sorry Uncle Tzimmy, you’re too bland. Where are those great Mediterranean flavours?

Zeus Greek Street’s funky interior.

We should have stuck to our guns and picked Stavros Stavrou, whoever he is. At Zeus, this fella is filled with haloumi, Aegean slaw, caramelised onion and olive tapenade.

Or even Hermes, the winged messenger of the gods would have had more punch. This chicken pita is hot, a point that’s reiterated in red capitals on the menu. It does have golden pepper salsa, chilli infused tzatziki, the rather-delish Aegean slaw, parsley and fresh chilli.

Zeus does get the gold medal for fast service. Our two other dishes appear with lightning speed and make up for the pita. Both are from the famed souvla.

The Spartan Box is anything but spartan. Succulent skin-on chicken — our choice of protein — is nicely presented with the previously-mentioned crunchy Aegean slaw, those Grecian overtones coming from the crushed walnuts, fresh dill and Greek yoghurt and the side of tomato pilaf.

Chicken Spartan box.

Then there’s the signature nude, or chunks of lamb, served simply with a tiny side of tzatziki and lemon wedge. As the name suggests, this dish prides itself on the quality of the meat alone.

We opt for lamb. It arrives in a little pot with a tag on the top. Lift the lid and there are just cooked pieces of lamb and a single lemon wedge. Nude indeed. The only other accompaniment is a small dish of tzatziki, the gluten-free Greek yoghurt dip flavoured with cucumber, dill and roasted garlic.

Add a village salad (you’ll need a side) mixed with tomatoes and cucumber and topped with feta, shut your eyes, and you could almost be in the Aegean.

Spanakopita, always a favourite, is on the menu.

Essentials

What: Zeus Street Greek

Where: 385 Sydney Rd, Balgowlah

Phone: [phone]

Go for: eight varieties of pita, from $10.50; chicken Spartan box with Aegean slaw, tzatziki and pilaf, $15.50

Bottom line: $50.50 for two

Vibe: Hellenic heritage