Review: Suburbia opens in Manly on Sydney’s northern beaches

Suburbia isn’t quite vegetarian, but it is a new, innovative addition to the Manly dining scene.

Asparagus, crushed peas, chilli dressing with pangrattato. Pictures: Adam Yip.

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MANLY is finally getting a serve of interesting food.

Scottish chef Jason Wright opened Arthur’s over winter and his beautifully crafted, sustainable seafood is anything but boring.

Now it’s Doug Fraser’s turn. The restaurateur has left the steaks searing on the grill at Barbuto in Narrabeen to bring an innovative concept to Manly.

Newly-opened Suburbia is almost vegetarian. Could it encourage the vegie-shy to be more experimental?

Baked eggplant, Korean miso and buffalo mozzarella; asparagus, crushed peas, chilli dressing with pangrattato The office bucket of deep-fried chicken.

With its whitewashed exterior, hand-torn banana leaf wallpaper and blonde wood furniture, the space channels cool California.

And that’s where the inspiration comes from. One red-hot restaurant blew Fraser and wife Kylie away when they were in Santa Monica this year.

That restaurant in question is Gjelina, the produce-to-plate Venice eatery that has a four-and-a-half star Zagat rating.

Fraser’s first clutch of decent-sized options also includes a nod to vegan diners with dishes such as his grilled broccolini, lentils and smoked cashew puree.

Delicate asparagus has been paired with crushed peas, fresh mint, crunchy pangrattato, feta and a chilli dressing. It’s light, simple and packs plenty of flavour and textures.

Kylie and Doug Fraser in Suburbia.

Unlike asparagus, eggplant is not a pretty vegetable but it carries flavour. Big time.

Fraser has sexied it up and is serving it baked as a main course. It comes with Korean miso, a scattering of sesame seeds, buffalo mozzarella and newly formed fan club. It is one vegetarian dish customers are loving, he says.

Sensibly, Suburbia does not push carnivores off-side. Once again a trendy, finger-lickin’ American fave has a soft spot on the menu and customer waistlines.

Suburbia’s meaty option is top quality fried chicken.

Wings, Marylands and thighs are brined, slow-cooked, coated in 30 spices and deep-fried.

Enjoy them by the bucket full, as a takeaway burger or with one of the sides and a sauce.

Watermelon margarita and gin-based Gjelina.

Then there’s a more crazy way of chook heaven. Try one with a Belgian waffle, maple syrup and bacon. It’s an American favourite, Fraser says.

Surbubia is one to watch.

The Verdict: 3.5/5

The Price: $60 without drinks

Details: Suburbia, 49 Sydney Rd, Manly

Open: Wed to Mon, 11.30am-3pm, from 5pm

Web: suburbiamanly.com.au