Boathouse Group opens Barrenjoey House at Palm Beach
Barrenjoey House, now run by the Boathouse Group, has been refurbished and reopened with plenty of designer flair and a casual, beachy menu, writes food critic Beverley Hudec.
Manly
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Pip Robb and Andrew Goldsmith don’t subscribe to the trend for minimalism.
She has an interior design background; his is horticulture and landscaping. Together, this northern beaches design duo is the driving force behind a successful hospitality brand.
For a decade, the Boathouse Group has been quietly restyling waterfront cafes in Palm Beach, Balmoral and Manly. Their expanding portfolio also includes refurbishing an iconic central coast pub, a Palm Beach homewares store and a Whale Beach reception venue. There’s even a tiny Whale Beach cafe that doesn’t have the Boathouse tag.
The couple were looking for a beautiful venue where they could open a restaurant where they could have table service and dining in the evening, an experience that didn’t work in Shelly Beach when the Manly venue first opened.
And here it is. Their eighth project is the six-month redesign of iconic Barrenjoey House, where shades of blues, yellows, green and lots of white blend with their trademark fresh flowers, citrus-filled clam shells, potted succulents and clusters of oversized lampshades.
Think Hamptons fused with Noosa and Nordic style.
The heritage-listed venue has been so busy since reopening in the lead up to Christmas that it’s now open seven days a week. Bookings are advisable, although there are tables outside and the long marble bar for walk-ins.
With the design sorted, group executive chef Thom Williamson, Barrenjoey House executive chef Doug Fraser and head chef Petr Buchel have launched a menu that reflects the environment. It’s beachy, casual and simple with plenty of seafood and a few inspired dishes. Take the Murray cod with orange and fennel served with a citrus beurre blanc. It’s a taste of summer and one of the best dishes we’ve had for a long time.
The rare yellow fin tuna spaghetti with rocket, capers and chilli is served warm and doesn't’ quite work. It’s a massive portion and you don’t have to go fishing for the rare tuna — there’s plenty, but it’s overpowered by too much garlic and parmesan.
Two popular entrees are the scallops on corn puree and a retro prawn cocktail. This 1970s dish has 10 prawns lined up on a small nest of shredded lettuce and avocado, which is topped with a classic Marie Rose sauce and a tiny sprinkle of sumac. There’s just about enough for two to share. And at $39, it’s an expensive start.
No Boathouse would be complete without classic fish and chips. Boathouse’s signature flathead and chunky chips is a giant portion of deep fried heaven if you like posh fish and chips at the beach without all the sand.
Barrenjoey House is definitely worth the drive up to Palmie for us mere mortals who don’t have a summer house in the area, even if parking is a nightmare. And that’s such a first world problem. Accommodation will open at the end of February, so problem solved.
Essentials
The Verdict: 3.5/5
The Price: $125 for two without drinks
Barrenjoey House, 1108 Barrenjoey Rd, Palm Beach. Bookings: 9974 4001.
Open: Daily for lunch and dinner
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