Chef Fast Ed Halmagyi reveals how salted caramel opened up a panoply of flavours

SALTED caramel was the hit flavour of 2010 and, six years on, it shows no sign of its influence abating -it’s not just something delicious, it’s a key lesson in how to make flavour more effective, says Fast Ed.

Celebrity chef Ed Halmagyi reveals the history behind the dishes he shares.

SALTED caramel was the hit flavour of 2010 and, six years on, it shows no sign of its influence abating.

That the appeal of this sweet-savoury combination goes across age groups, ethnicities and food preferences tells us much about why it is so loved. Unlike so many flavours whose popularity is the product of personal preference or temporary fascination, the dash of salt to complex sweet dishes relies on its ability to affect our sense of seasoning.

Most of the world’s tastes are in fact aromas, detected by the epithelium, a small finger-sized patch in the rear of the nose. As you inhale, the scent passes over and is interpreted by the fine receptors.

On the tongue, however, you have tastebuds, little bumps with a range of capacities. They can detect sweet, salty, bitter, sour, umami (savouriness), piquancy, pepperiness, chilli, fat, temperature and texture. Any one of those qualities can attach itself to the principal flavour detected in the nose.

As such we can identify lemons in the nose, then the tongue tells us that they are sour. The nose says strawberries, the tongue says sweet. The nose says beer, the tongue says bitter.

Really understanding flavour means using the interplay between these two organs.

Salted caramel works because the burnt sugar is aromatic and rich, with a distinctly sweet mouth-feel. Adding a pinch of salt triggers a second adjectival response in the mouth, doubling the perceived idea of its taste.

Of course, that effect can work in other sweet foods too. Salted chocolate, salted lemon curd, salted jams.

All these are effective uses of the same culinary principle.

Salted caramel was not just something delicious, it was a key lesson in how to make flavour more effective.

Salted caramel popcorn is just the ticket for cosying up to watch a movie at home.

Salted Caramel Popcorn

INGREDIENTS: SERVES 4

½ cup popcorn kernels

2 tsp vegetable oil

125g unsalted butter

1½ cups brown sugar

½ cup glucose syrup

½ tsp cream of tartar

2 tsp natural vanilla extract

2 tsp fine salt

2 tsp salt flakes

METHOD

■ Preheat oven to 130C. Pour the oil into a large lidded saucepan set over a high heat, then add the popcorn kernels and cook for 6-8 minutes, shaking often, until the popping sound subsides. Remove the lid and set aside.

■ Line an oven sheet with aluminium foil, and grease well with spray oil. Scatter the popcorn on top, discarding any kernels that failed to open.

■ Combine the butter, sugar, glucose and cream of tartar in a large saucepan and set over a high heat. Cook for 15 minutes, until the syrup reaches 25C on a sugar thermometer.

■ Remove from the heat, mix in the vanilla and fine salt, then pour over the popcorn.

■ Bake for 15-20 minutes, until the caramel has melted all over the popcorn, then sprinkle with salt flakes and set aside to cool completely before chopping into wedges and serving.

Fast Ed’s hazelnut chocolate spread