‘Give back in some way’: How restaurant owner adapts to changing economy

The Balcony’s owner contemplates what the Townsville diner is looking for, as he introduces the biggest shake-up to the CBD restaurant’s menu in years.

The Balcony has just introduced a new menu. Manager Kirsten Sands with owner Luke Johnston showcase some of their dishes. Picture: Evan Morgan

For the first time in fives years the Balcony Restaurant has dramatically changed its menu, as its owner Luke Johnston contemplates the changing hospitality scene and what diners have come to expect.

He believes the days have gone where diners have expected their plates to be overloaded with quantity and a standard pub feed, and instead are turning to wholesome food they cannot prepare in their homes.

While Mr Johnston wrestles with the cost-of-living, he believes he has found a balance so that the costs have not carelessly been passed onto the diner which risks pricing the family restaurant out of the market.

“I really try and not put the prices up more than what you need to, you only want your share.

“And I think you need to be able to give back in some way as well – fresh feels, fresh looks, fresh flavours, fresh sizes, fresh flavours.

“It doesn’t have to be the biggest schnitzel and chips and gravy in the world at the pub to be appreciated now, and I think that’s where the market has grown slightly.

The Balcony showcases its Calamari Salad. Picture: Evan Morgan

“As people become more worldly, more boutique, more value for money is seen in that's that I think sort of create an experience.”

The secret is in quality ingredients that are handmade within the Balcony kitchen, such as his wild mushroom demi-glaze, rather than in buying the processed foods that might save time.

The restaurant which caters to breakfast, brunch and lunches has a sense of seclusion, even though it overlooks the middle of Townsville’s central business district, and its owners Kelly and Luke are comfortable with that.

The Balcony has just introduced a new menu. One of the reoccurring dishes at the restaurant is the salmon bagel. Picture: Evan Morgan

They bought the restaurant 12 years ago as they sought a balanced and healthy lifestyle that allowed them to manage their business, and be home in time for dinner – which is a luxury in the hospitality scene.

“And of course we’ve tailored the business to suit what we like to do, our high teas, for baby showers, for bridal showers, for grandma’s birthday, they’ve become a huge part of our trade as well,” Mr Johnston said.

The restaurant had in the past been listed for sale, during the tumultuous pandemic years, and the way that Mr Johnston spoke to the Bulletin, it’s likely to be put on the market again soon.

Mr Johnston’s eyes shine passionately as he describes his new menu, which he describes as modern Australian cuisine despite the visible mediterranean influences.

The Balcony has just introduced a new menu which includes the duck omelette. Picture: Evan Morgan

“There were things here when we bought the restaurant, and they’ll be here possibly, if I ever sell the restaurant,” he said.

He had to keep the favourite risotto on the menu.

“I’ll probably get hunted down and staked if I took if off,” he said.

The menu includes duck omelette, salmon bagels, a revamped salt and pepper salad, seafood chowder and boqueronis en vinagre – which were anchovies with tomatoes, lemon and capers.

But even as he talks about the menu and glances around the dining room with fondness, and praises the staff including long-serving manager Kirsten Sands, he also expresses the desire to own a restaurant within his own building while candidly suggesting the Balcony would be ideal for a chef seeking the transition into ownership.

Originally published as ‘Give back in some way’: How restaurant owner adapts to changing economy