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Clair Ryder: distilling tradition and innovation

Clair Ryder, a proud Wiradjuri woman, leads On Country Craft Distillery, blending traditional knowledge with innovative distilling. Her business empowers First Nations communities, promotes ethical practices, and challenges stereotypes in the alcohol industry.

On Country Craft Distillery owner Clair Ryder. Picture: Shae Beplate.
On Country Craft Distillery owner Clair Ryder. Picture: Shae Beplate.

Clair Ryder’s journey from social work to distilling is a story of passion, determination, and cultural advocacy.

As a proud Wiradjuri woman, Clair has always been driven by a desire to empower her community and make a meaningful impact.

Her transition from social work to opening On Country Craft Distillery was sparked by a chance encounter with the pervasive issue of cultural appropriation in the alcohol industry.

“I was searching for a bottle of gin as a gift for my mother, when my eye was drawn to what appeared to be the perfect bottle,” Clair told NQ Weekend.

The label featured First Nations iconography, but the company behind it was non-Indigenous, offering no support to the communities whose culture they profited from.

“Swept down the rabbit hole of research, I found myself studying the spirit industry in my spare time. I discovered that not only was the appropriation of Indigenous imagery and cultural symbols alarmingly common, a lot of harm was being done through improper sourcing of bushtucker leading to environmental and cultural harm.

On Country Craft Distillery owner Clair Ryder. Picture: Shae Beplate.
On Country Craft Distillery owner Clair Ryder. Picture: Shae Beplate.

“Sacred plants were being taken without consent, generations of traditional bush tucker knowledge were diminished to mere marketing buzzwords for appropriation, traditional land management strategies to support the diverse ecosystem were cast aside in a rush to harvest the next trending botanical, cumulatively leading to cultural desecration.”

This revelation ignited a fire within Clair, leading her to delve into the spirit industry and uncover widespread appropriation of Indigenous imagery.

Determined to make a difference, Clair sought the guidance of her elders and earned their blessing to establish a distillery on Bindal country.

“If change can’t be made from the outside, you need to create change from within,” she said. “And that meant stepping aside from a stable career that I loved, and entering the strange and chaotic world of small business and distilling.”

Clair embarked on a journey to learn the art of distilling at the University of Adelaide.

The process of setting up a distillery was very complex, and Clair could see it would be costly.

“Unfortunately, I was repeatedly knocked back when I applied for funding and support,” Clair said. “I was told that it was too risky for an organisation to be seen supporting anything that tied First Nations people with alcohol.

“A government agency explained that it was a bad media day in the making, and so they could not be associated.

“The negative stigma surrounding First Nations people and alcohol has proven to be an ongoing barrier, preventing Indigenous Australians from having a seat at the table for many key discussions.”

This barrier didn’t deter Clair.

“Instead I dug into my limited savings, informed my long-suffering and incredibly patient parents that my plans to buy my own home had changed and I’d be living with them for the foreseeable future, and I chose to forge forward, building my own seat at the table.”

Some of the gin varieties produced by On Country Craft Distillery in Townsville. Picture: Supplied.
Some of the gin varieties produced by On Country Craft Distillery in Townsville. Picture: Supplied.

On Country Craft Distillery was born out of a vision to model ethical practices and promote cultural consultation.

Clair is committed to ensuring that all ingredients are ethically sourced, with the blessing of traditional landowners.

“I am fortunate to partner with Bushfood Farms Australia, an ethical company that shares my values and supports a broad range of communities to join the supply chain, helping to give our people a voice,” she says.

The distillery’s commitment to sustainability extends beyond ingredient sourcing.

“The production process utilises environmentally friendly options where possible, including solar power and closed water cooling systems, so that we can tread gently on the land,” Clair explains.

A portion of the distillery’s profits is dedicated to environmental conservation and women’s empowerment projects, with elder consultation guiding key decisions.

Clair’s collaboration with Traditional Owners is at the heart of her distilling process. “Collaborating with Traditional owners – custodians of the land and knowledge – is a privilege that I will never take for granted,” she said.

This collaboration ensures that the distillery remains true to its mission of giving people a voice and respecting the rich traditions and knowledge of First Nations communities.

As the only distillery 100 per cent owned and managed by First Nations women, On Country Craft Distillery challenges stereotypes and reclaims cultural narratives.

“By having On Country Craft Distillery 100 per cent owned and managed by First Nations women I am helping to ensure that the power remains with the traditional custodians of the botanical knowledge, and that they will always have a say,” Clair said.

She is determined to change perceptions about First Nations people and alcohol, highlighting the rich cultural insights and sustainable practices that Indigenous communities can offer.

Since its inception, On Country Craft Distillery has achieved remarkable success.

Clair’s gins have won accolades at the Ekka, including the prestigious Best Fruit Gin award. However, her most fulfilling achievement is witnessing the positive impact of the distillery’s community projects.

Aunty Lyn with a silk scarf that is sold as part of the business
Aunty Lyn with a silk scarf that is sold as part of the business

“A hefty portion of our profits have been put towards funding activities for Aunty Lyn’s Women’s group, supporting underprivileged women in our community,” she said.

Clair’s passion for her work is evident in every bottle of gin produced. Each flavour features unique First Nations artwork, telling a different story.

This artistic expression has extended to a range of silk scarves, allowing Clair to share more of her culture’s stories with the world.

“We decided that we wanted to share more of our art, and so we began to manufacture silk scarves,” she said.

At On Country Craft Distillery, each gin flavour produced is adorned with a distinctive piece of First Nations artwork, with every dot painting narrating a unique story.

The appreciation and interest in these artworks inspired the distillery to expand its artistic offerings.

“We decided that we wanted to share more of our art, and so we began to manufacture silk scarves,” Clair said.

The scarves, crafted from gorgeously soft mulberry silk, serve as an ideal medium for showcasing the vibrant colours and intricate designs of First Nations art, making them perfect for gifting and easy to ship.

This venture into textile art has opened new avenues for collaboration with businesses seeking to develop bespoke uniforms.

“We love yarning with companies, and working with them to craft bespoke artworks that reflect the businesses’ goals and journey, along with their relationship with the community,” Clair said.

These consultations are not just about creating unique designs; they are opportunities to explore concepts of reconciliation and collaboration, fostering growth and healing.

“Cultural consultation is something we value and promote in all aspects, as it is a cornerstone to meaningful social change.”

The scarves have become a symbol of On Country Craft Distillery’s commitment to cultural preservation and community engagement.

Their versatility and lightweight nature make them ideal for gifting and sharing stories.

“The colours print so vibrantly on the natural, organic material.”

This new venture has opened up exciting opportunities for collaboration with businesses, furthering the distillery’s mission to promote cultural understanding and unity.

“I would love to see the business expand and create job opportunities for more First Nations women.”

Originally published as Clair Ryder: distilling tradition and innovation

Original URL: https://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/news/townsville/clair-ryder-distilling-tradition-and-innovation/news-story/b98c850b3aebc9e66507c609947f87ba