So it makes sense for Taste to launch our inaugural Cafe Awards — selecting the 50 Best Cafes around the city and its surrounds. From Penrith to Palmy, from The Shire to Newtown, hot cafes are now as common as the corner shops some of them once were.

The Taste team of testers — including editor Grant Jones, executive editor Kerry Parnell and chief food critic Elizabeth Meryment — diligently travelled the length and breadth of Sydney, joined by Colin Fassnidge and delicious. magazine editor-in-chief Kerrie McCallum, who whittled down the long list into 50 finalists, regional winners and overall champion.

UPDATE! The People’s Choice Award!

TWINS Alex and Matt Williams were disappointed when their Hunters Hill cafe, Dachshund Coffee, didn’t appear in Taste’s 50 Best Cafes guide last week.

But they shouldn’t have worried — their cafe, which they co-own with Rob Stein, has won our People’s Choice award for Sydney’s favourite cafe.

The Gladesville Rd venue polled exceptionally well in our online vote, outranking other hot contenders from Coogee to St Leonards.

Hot on Dachshund’s heels were: Cavalier Speciality Coffee, St Lenoards, Carmel’s, Wareemba, Crema 55, Sydney, The Courtyard Cafe, Coogee, and Lava Espresso Cafe, Sydney.

Alex said he was thrilled to take out the popular vote for the 18-month-old cafe that offers specialist coffee brews and a slim but trend-forward menu.

“Over the past three to four years, people have become more familiar with the type of product that we do and have an understanding of what we’re about,” he said.

He said the Hunters Hill area had experienced a culinary revival over the past few years, with a bonanza of new restaurants and cafes opening.

Apart from house blends and in-house roasting, food is becoming an increasingly important part of the cafe offering — which was evident in our overall winner, Cornersmith in Marrickville, which makes its own jams, chutneys and pickles. Congratulations to the team there.

EAST WINNER: Ruby’s Diner, Waverley

There’s a paleo edge to many of the dishes at this quite brilliant diner-style cafe marooned on a suburban stretch of Bronte Rd. Go for health-packed soul foods like a superfoods muffin, taken, naturally, with a glass of kombucha (poured on tap). Or for something more substantial, there’s coconut quinoa bircher, “rainbow salad eggs” or grass-fed beef bone broth with poached egg. Don’t be deterred if you’re not buying into the caveman eating scene, because mainstream tastes are also catered for, as long as you don’t mind prices elevated slightly by the organic, sustainable produce.

At lunch, the menu extends to a beef burger or roasted lemon-garlic chicken sandwich and there’s a whole counter stuffed with sinfully buttery croissants, pastries and even, sometimes, cronuts. Owner Ed Devlin keeps a sharp eye on staff who seem rather too young to know what to do with the record player used as a prop behind the coffee counter. EM

1/173-179 Bronte Rd, Waverley, rubysdiner.com.au

Little Jean, Double Bay

Weekends at this glitzy newcomer can get crazy, but don’t be put off if there’s a gaggle of botoxed matrons hanging around the door attempting to look anxious as they demand a table. Chef Chris Stockdale (ex-Golden Sheaf) does a great line in interesting breakfast dishes - go for “gypsy eggs” of baked eggs with tomato, chorizo and labne, or sweet corn, zucchini and cauliflower fritters with avo and chipotle relish.

But the real stars here are the pastries, baked onsite daily and lined up tantalisingly at the counter. Gorgeous little quiches are pitch perfect, while fruit-topped danishes compete with flaky scrolls and twists for pastry supremacy. EM

Shop K1/1 Kiaora Rd, Double Bay, 9328 0201, littlejean.com.au

Bills, Bondi

Bill Granger (pictured) is the consummate cafe king and his newish Bondi outfit is the best in his Sydney chain. In this comfortable, airy space in the new Hall St development, there’s plenty of room for the masses who converge on Bondi at weekends, lured by the promise of Granger’s famed ricotta pancakes with banana and honeycomb butter followed, perhaps, by a splash in the surf.

This Bills has also caught up with the times, supplementing 20-year favourite dishes (corn fritters, anyone?) with newer offerings (Korean fried chicken, quinoa and beetroot salad, wagyu burgers). Best of all, the sunny, cheerful approach that has made Bills so popular is delivered in spades here. EM

79 Hall St, Bondi Beach, 8412 0700, bills.com.au

Craig’s Cheese Shop, Bondi Junction

Don’t be confused by the name - Craig’s has evolved beyond its cheese shop origins into a cafe and deli beloved of Bondi Junction locals. And although the location is drab and the seating minimal - the tiny shopfront has but a few stools and looks onto a petrol station - the muffins alone make a visit essential.

Run by Adrian Dauney (ex-Bistro Moncur) and Craig Kleinig, all the cooking is done in the large visible rear kitchen, producing delicacies such as french toast with rhubarb, Angus beef pies, goat’s cheese tart and ham and provolone croissants.

The coffee is excellent, but if you go for only one thing, make it the muffins - for they offer a flavour explosion in combinations as tempting as apple, vanilla, raspberry and mascarpone. KP

59 Birrell St, Bondi Junction, 9387 3323, craigscheeseshop.com.au

The Cook and Baker, Bondi Junction

Although it’s more of a patisserie than a traditional cafe, The Cook and Baker sneaks into this guide on account of the excellence of its fare. Run by Kiwis Cherie Bevan and Tass Tauroa, the baking is done in an open kitchen out the back, with the front counter groaning under the weight of lamingtons, scrolls and tarts.

Bevan and Tauroa specialise in remaking classics, giving them a rustic, if contemporary edge, and bucket-loads of flavour, so expect hyper-realised versions of old faithfuls (the Bro Nut, a doughnut filled with chocolate and salted caramel, is worth the trip alone). Savouries (think sausage rolls and frittatas) are also spot on. A large table on the street outside provides a spot to sit and eat, and we love the delicious twist that The Cook and Baker is situated directly opposite a health food cafe. So you may savour that Nutella brioche just a little bit more. KP

238 Oxford St, Bondi Junction, 9388 0119, thecookandbaker.com.au

Three Blue Ducks, Bronte

There has been so much attention heaped this year on the Ducks’ new Byron Bay outlet, The Farm, that it’s easy to forget the original Bronte venue keeps on quietly delivering some of Sydney’s best cafe food. In this unassuming - some may unkindly say dingy space - diners breakfast on winning combinations like smoked salmon with poached eggs, labne, kale and chilli, and pot roasted chickpeas with tomato, smashed eggs, capers, onions and goat’s cheese.

At lunch, the menu ups its game, with properly cheffy dishes including sea mullet with confit cherry tomatoes, mussels and fish broth, or a beef curry with papaya chutney, yoghurt and lentils. There’s a thoughtfulness, earthiness and precision to the cuisine of celebrity chef owners Darren Robertson and Mark LaBrooy that elevates their food above the mere suburban into something almost sublime. EM

141 Macpherson St, Bronte, 9389 0010, threeblueducks.com

Edition Coffee Roasters, Darlinghurst

It’s not just the excellence of the coffee that has fans of this newish, beautifully minimalist cafe excited, it’s the compelling originality of the Nordic-Japanese fusion menu that also delights. From a list that includes oden, a Japanese stew, vildsvin, Swedish wild boar meatballs with onion broth, and fiskoppa, Nordic fish soup, the standout is a creation called “mushroom pond’, a Japanese-style umami-rich dish comprising portobello, enoki and oyster mushrooms floating in a rich, dark consomme, along with chewy udon noodles and a velvety, rather European mushroom cream. It’s fusion that actually works.

Like the food, the coffee options are thoughtful and extensive - there’s batch brew, espresso, aeropress, pour over and elixir cold brew - all done expertly. With its 20 seats and stark white fitout, this is a cafe that has it all - great coffee, a cool vibe and a menu that will set trends, rather than merely copying them. RG

265 Liverpool St, Darlinghurst, editioncoffeeroasters.com

Lox, Stock and Barrel, Bondi

This urban cool deli-diner in the back streets of Bondi is like a New York deli, only with Bondi hipsters in it. And, of course, large numbers of the local Jewish community who turn out in force to feast on beautifully realised and freshly interpreted versions of European, American and Middle Eastern favourites.

Try a freshly made bagel in poppyseed, plain, onion, wholemeal and sesame, and schmear it with butter, cream cheese, ricotta, feta, vegemite, labne or hummus for a satisfying and simple breakfast - or add chicken liver, smoked lox or corned wagyu for a richer experience.

Those not au fait with Jewish cuisine may stick to the more fashionable elements of the menu: an ancient grain granola, say, or a cauliflower salad of avocado, chickpeas, corn, radish and fennel. KP

140 Glenayr Ave, Bondi Beach, 9300 0368, loxstockandbarrel.com.au

Fratelli Paradiso, Potts Point

The people-watching at this broody Italian cafe is almost as enjoyable as the act of choosing a delicate treat from the glassed pastry cabinet that takes pride of place in the smaller of the venue’s two compact rooms.

Try (not too hard) to resist the custard-filled bomboloni - Italian-style doughnuts - and lovely little florentine biscuits, perfect for nibbling with creamy Italian coffees, while rubbing shoulders with off-duty CEOs, chefs and celebrities barely recognisable on Saturday mornings without their makeup on.

The breakfasts are light and thoughtful - perfect for the anti-carb crowd - and include jersey-milk “risotto” with strawberry and pistachio, or a delicate egg-white omelette with roasted mushrooms. Those who eat meat, carbs and egg yolks may prefer the heavier “uovo fritto”, a recent menu addition featuring fried egg, corned beef, pickle, provolone and milk bread. Perfecto. EM

12-16 Challis Ave, Potts Point, 9357 1744, fratelliparadiso.com

Yellow, Potts Point

The creative giants behind Yellow - Nick Hildebrandt and chef Brent Savage - are the same pair who have delivered some of Sydney’s best restaurants (The Bentley, Monopole, and at night, a different hue of Yellow) so perhaps it’s not surprising that this cafe is a favourite of the informed Sydney culinary crowd.

Don’t come expecting eggs Benedict (hooray!), because Savage and Hildebrandt would never deliver anything so prosaic.

Instead, eggs come in one of four ways - baked, with cauliflower, silverbeet and parmesan; poached, with pumpkin consomme and mushrooms; scrambled, with toast, baby tomatoes and housemade bacon; or fried, with pickled mussels and zucchini.

The list is otherwise concise - muffins, breads and muesli mostly - so plump for one of the egg dishes, the pick of which is the baked variety, or poached if you don’t mind a challenge. EM

57 Macleay St, Potts Point, 9332 2344; yellowsydney.com.au

WINNER WEST: High St Depot, Penrith

This relative newcomer on Penrith’s main drag is courtesy of chef Tim Bryan, who worked at Chiswick and helped launched Redfern’s Three Williams.

And his pedigree shows in a succinct but highly successful menu that covers cafe favourites, with tweaks to elevate them above the average. Instead of an avocado smash, the smoked salmon bruschetta sits on top of a pea and avo smear, granola is topped with green tea-poached pears and you’ll get a burnt butter hollandaise rather than the regular variety on your eggs Benny.

Great coffee comes courtesy of Single Origin Roasters. In short, this is the sort of place that wouldn’t look out of place in Surry Hills and the Penny locals are loving it. RG

Shop 1, 488 High St, Penrith, 4704 8244, facebook.com/pages/High-St-Depot

Mado Cafe, Auburn

There’s a plethora of exotic cafes - Turkish, Lebanese, even Afghan - in this part of Sydney but a consistent favourite is this Turkish venue particularly renowned for its authentic sweets. Sit in a heavily carved wooden chair and sip stiff Turkish coffee and cay (Turkish tea) and order savoury dishes if you must - there’s inegol kofte (minced lamb patties), a variety of shish kebabs and Middle Eastern dips (hummus, jajic, beetroot) - or do yourself a favour and head straight to the wondrous sweet counter with its tooth-defying kadayif (pistachio pastry) and kazandibi (burnt custard).

Best of all is the authentic mastic ice-cream, a sticky, stringy version of ice-cream, the flavours and textures of which are otherwordly. EM

63 Auburn Rd, Auburn; 9643 5299

The Factoria, Wetherell Park

This is not the place to visit if you don’t have a sweet tooth, because the menu lists only three savoury options - either vegetarian or salami panini, and a ham-and-cheese croissant. That’s fine by us, though, for there’s much to mine in the dessert cabinets that overflow with cannoli, bomboloni, tarts, cakes and pastries, not to mention gelato, which has its very own counter. Nice.

Set in an industrial complex just off The Horsley Drive, this dessert haven is by the guys who run the Grano Italian restaurant next door, so expect mostly Italian treats with your Will & Co coffee. If the sugar rush is too much, visit the coolroom and take home a selection of Italian cheeses and salami for later. RG

1003-1009 Canley Vale Rd, Wetherill Park, 9756 6044, facebook.com/thefactoria1

Bourke St Bakery, Parramatta

If you’ve ever waited impatiently in the never-ending line at Bourke St Bakery Surry Hills for a lamb and harissa sausage roll you’ll be pleased to know the chain has now opened in a spot where you’re practically guaranteed a seat. And as well as sausage rolls, BSB’s other favourites are all represented at this newish Parramatta branch (that will be on the move next year). Go for a spinach, mushroom and goat’s cheese quiche, or a deluxe beef brisket and red wine pie.

Then there’s the custard-filled tarts and scrolls, and of course Single Origin’s Reservoir blend coffee. The Westie Breakfast Plate, with a cold boiled egg, ricotta, avocado, tomato and toast is a Parra addition. While you have to travel to Parramatta to enjoy all that extra space, it’s only 20 minutes by express train from Central, which is still a helluva lot quicker than waiting in line at Surry Hills. Beware, they are relocating close by in December. RG

Shop 17/162-172 Church St, Parramatta, 9893 9075, bourkestreetabakery.com.au

Henri Marc, Penrith

You can’t miss this cafe - first, it’s the only place in Penrith where people are queuing to get in, and second, it stands out a mile - as though Doctor Who lifted a hipster cafe from inner-city Surry Hills and plonked it down in High St, Penrith. Owned by young chef couple Sophia and Aaron Bernecki, the interior is all industrial cool with quirky detailing, and the locals love it. Coffee is Reuben Hills and the honest food comes in huge portions.

Big breakfast hits include buttermilk pancakes and chorizo and poached eggs while lunch options change regularly. Try, perhaps, meatball and mashed potatoes on brioche bread with pickled jalapeno and parmesan or a quirky roast beetroot sandwich with pickled carrot, almond dukkah, cottage cheese and fried kale. KP

Shop 2, 438 High St, Penrith, henrimarc.com.au

The Emporium

Cousins John and Sam Ayoub have built a mini empire from their Coffee Emporium business. So big, in fact, that they have been able to create this impressive venue that doubles as an office of sorts, in addition to being a cafe by day and 150-seater restaurant by night. The downstairs space is dominated by a roaster at the rear and the rustic raw brick fitout seems to suit the west’s coffee-keen crowd.

Apart from the house blend coffee, expect mod breakfasts of banana bread with whipped lemon ricotta, quinoa granola, or more substantial offerings like smoked bacon and egg rolls or baked eggs, spicy chorizo and cannellini beans with manchego. GJ

51 Philip St, Parramatta, 9687 1955, theemporiumparramatta.com.au

Circa, Parramatta

There has been a bit of a merry-go-round happening in Parramatta’s cafe scene with the council-owned site on Church St mall set for redevelopment. And so the hole-in-the-wall tenant that was Circa - one of Parramatta’s first cool, inner-city style cafes - has closed. A sibling Circa, in a garage attached to a double-storey terrace over the rail line, however, is still trading.

It’s the same crowd here, all coming in for house-roasted coffee, breakfasts of fig and raisin sourdough with ricotta, or the newbie bubble and squeak with buttered white cabbage, carrots and peas with béarnaise sauce. Back across the other side of the railway line, the same crew also run Smith Fine Tea & Specialty Coffee, a tiny venue tucked into Batman Lane. Sensibly, it doesn’t wander too far from the successful Circa formula of good teas, drip filter and espresso coffees, plus simple, straightforward Med-inspired food. GJ

21 Wentworth St, Parramatta, circaespresso.com.au; 3/70 Macquarie St, Parramatta

Devon, Surry Hills and Waterloo

The bubblegum Asian pop soundtrack that beats away not quite in the background at this quirky inner-city venue sets the tone for the unusual yet upbeat eating experience. All-day breakfasts range from “eggs blini”, a sweetened buckwheat blini with cured king salmon, two beautifully runny poached eggs, broccolini and sauce Mikado (not unlike a hollandaise) to an “ogre burger” of crumbed ox tongue, horseradish cream, kohlrabi and fennel salad on a brioche bun. But save room for sweets that include the OTT “Little Lost Bread”: brioche doused in triple chocolate, caramelised banana AND salted caramel soft serve, or Devon’s legendary affogato - with salted caramel ice-cream covered with chocolate and coffee. A sister venue - Devon on Danks - is lighter, airier and somehow more grown up. EM

76 Devonshire St, Surry Hills, 9211 8777 and 2 Danks St, Waterloo, 9698 7795 devoncafe.com.au

CBD AND INNER CITY WINNER: Reuben Hills, Surry Hills

Not just your regular Joe cafe, Reuben Hills states its difference from the outset: “The menu was inspired by our coffee-buying trips to Central and South America,” a note on the menu reads. “We hope you enjoy it.” And enjoy it we do, with the menu at once adventurous – atole porridge with fried banana, raisin syrup, cocoa and banana milo crumb – and exotic – an “Albondigas bowl” featuring Mexican meatballs with fried egg, jalapeno, labne, escabeche, tortilla and seeds. Coffee is taken incredibly seriously here, with a daily espresso special offered with tasting notes; or go for the cultishly popular salted caramel milkshake that’s a meal in itself. EM

61 Albion St, Surry Hills, 9211 5556, reubenhills.com.au

Boon Cafe, Haymarket

Boon cafe offers Thai food for the mash-up generation, with “sarni by day and Isaan by night” the pledge. Translated, this means what you get is sandwiches with a Thai twist for lunch, and northern Thai dishes for dinner. We’re calling that winning. So order a Single Origin Roaster coffee and have it with a spicy sausage and nam prik num salad offered between slices of toasted Brickfields bread for a true cross cultural experience. For breakfast try the industrially sweet condensed milk and sugar toast, or a hangover-curing chicken congee with optional “thousand year egg”. At lunch there are sandwiches, burgers and rice bowls; at dinner, salads, grills, rice dishes and noodles reign, or drop into the Jarern Thai grocery shop in which the cafe exists for your take-home needs. GJ

1/425 Pitt St, Haymarket, 9281 2114, booncafe.com

Four Ate Five, Surry Hills

Some places just attract queues, and then people join to the queue to see what everyone else is queueing for. In the case of this Surry Hills stalwart, there’s substance behind the fuss. If you want to avoid the lines, get up at dawn or consider a weekday visit. Since it opened in 2010, the cafe has undergone a refit, but most of the staff remain, as does the best of the menu - and it still brings in the queues. A newer addition is a take on an Israeli breakfast, which pairs eggs with hummus, radish, chilli paste, chopped salad and pickles. Just as reliable are the old favourites - try the baked eggs or French toast, or at lunchtime the roast beef sandwich or wagyu burger. VH

485 Crown St, Surry Hills, 9698 6485, fouratefive.com

The Cross Eatery, Sydney

Don’t linger too long if you want to grab a seat and eat at this hot new CBD cafe that fills a bright, cavernous tiled space in the foyer of a refurbed building. The busy breakfast service starts with the basics, including Brickfields sourdough with Vegemite and moves on to more modern stuff, including chia and kefir cups and pearl barley porridge. Late-morning coffee orders quickly make way for lunch queues. Choose from fab soft ciabatta or crusty sesame rolls filled with salami, radicchio and manchego cheese, and top up with the most luxe roasted cauliflower salad you’ve ever had. GJ

155 Clarence St, Sydney, 9279 4280

Paramount Coffee Project, Surry Hills

This former Paramount Pictures office conversion has retained the quaint Art Deco tile facade and turned the old foyer into a space of glass, exposed brick and timbers. Choose to sit inside and watch coffee artistry at work, be it cold drip, filter or espresso using nearby Reuben Hills coffee, or on sunny days, take a seat on the footpath outside. If you can’t decide on what to drink, try “business and pleasure”, a rich shot of hot espresso matched with a cold glass of iced almond latte with cinnamon on top. It’s both rejuvenating and refreshing. Food comes in the dude form: a French Philly cheese sub matched with a side of patatas bravas is a sweet, salty, savoury, chilli hit. GJ

80 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills, 9211 1122, paramountcoffeeproject.com.au

Dr Faustus, Surry Hills

Nestled in the furthest reach of Surry Hills, this former chemist’s shop has retained original interior features, but serves cafe cuisine rather than medicinal remedies. The wood panelling, cabinets and drawers of the old chemist have been maintained for an apothecary feel, but you don’t need to sell your soul for a an excellent cup of joe and more substantial sustenance. The coffee, food and drinks are from a concise, well considered menu; check out the cereal milk - milk that’s made friends with sugary cereal just long enough to have the flavour - and the taco salad that’s delivered in a preserve jar. If you’re on the go, there’s a walk-up window for your caffeinated needs too. VH

380 Cleveland St, Surry Hills, drfaustus.com.au

Youeni Foodstore, Castle Hill

With a minimalist industrial interior and laid back staff at the counter, this cafe stands out in its suburban setting. Serving up wholesome food with an all-day menu that includes items such as a “life-extending bowl” (a mixture of legumes and vegetables), a burrito wrapped in a savoy cabbage leaf plus raw cacao smoothies, it’s obvious ex-Marque chef Chris Starke is keen on giving his food a healthy foundation.

If you don’t feel like going vegan, the menu gives the option of tricking up your choice by adding lamb, chicken, smoked salmon, egg or feta, but the overall result are dishes that are still light and wholesome. It’s not all abstemious virtue either, so while you won’t find any cronuts on the premises, there are homemade cakes to sate a sweet tooth. VH

2/250-254 Old Northern Rd, Castle Hill, 9680 8885, youenifoodstore.com

Coffee Brothers, Mona Vale

The chilled vibe of this Northern Beaches favourite belies its position in the heart of Mona Vale’s industrial hub. Here, beachgoers with sand still stuck to their feet hunker down on milk crates next to tradies and local business types to chat over cups of organic coffee made from beans hand-picked in the volcanic soil of Vanuatu’s Tanna island.

The small menu is as hearty as the tables made from repurposed industrial reels. A “warming superfood” porridge with mixed berry compote and poached pear is earthy and healthful, while a rustic BLAT offers crisp bacon and lightly garlicky aioli. Don’t miss the “French kiss”, walnut and raisin sourdough with ricotta, poached blueberries, candied walnuts and honey. CR

1/54-56 Darley St, Mona Vale, 8411 2190, coffeebros.com.au

The Boathouse, Shelly Beach

You could not find a lovelier location for a cafe than inside this 1930s former teahouse nestled delightfully close to Shelly Beach. In this huge restored space, diners sit and watch the sun sparkle on the waves, while their kids play happily on the sands. The menu is occasionally a touch too crowd-pleasing with its inevitable avo-and-tomato-on-charred-toast palette, but there are more exciting dishes too.

Try, say, smoked salmon with beetroot, poached eggs, pate and potato. And while the crowds in summer may prove chaotic, you can’t blame people for wanting a seat at the best spot in town. EM

1 Marine Pde, Manly, 9934 9977, theboathousesb.com.au

NORTH WINNER: Smalltown, Avalon

Tucked away from the main hubbub of Avalon village, Smalltown is like a delightful secret you wish you had discovered years ago. Staff seem genuinely pleased to meet you and there is a serene sit-and-stay-as-long-as-you like vibe that the busier cafes closer to the beach can’t offer.

The all-day menu has all the usual breakfast staples, but you might find yourself mixing white fish tacos with bannana smoothies or a bircher muesli with “jasmine and coconut”, a construction of poached pear, grains soaked in coconut milk, watermelon consomme and flower petals. It has to be the prettiest breakfast on the peninsula.

Then there’s the Big Boy’s Bacon and Egg roll with a hefty two eggs, bacon, smoky barbecue sauce, swiss cheese and house-made aioli on a milk bun. Yes, please. The Single Origin Roasters coffee is terrific. CR

1/21-23 Old Barrenjoey Rd, Avalon Beach, 9443 2286, facebook.com/smalltown

The Incinerator, Willoughby

You know a place is relaxed when you can forgo sitting at a table and merely plonk yourself on the ground. Scattered among The Incinerator’s outdoor tables and chairs are picnic rugs, so you can have all the fun of a picnic while letting the staff do all the hard work for you.

Inside this former garbage incinerator, designed by Walter Burley Griffin no less, it’s all industrial chic, or sit outdoors in the shady canopy of Bicentennial Reserve while you sip Grounds Roasters coffee or a Tim Tam shake.

The menu is short, solidly executed and covers cafe favourites like a poached chicken, avocado and bacon sarnie, or pulled lamb burger with cucumber and tzatziki on a squishy bun. This is a winning neighbourhood cafe that capitalises on its location with a menu you know you can rely on. RG

2 Small St, Willoughby, 8188 2220, theincinerator.com.au

Showbox Coffee Brewers, Manly

The weekend crowds lining up at Showbox show that Manly is not just about beach eating. The small, industrial chic space offers Mecca’s Dark Horse blend for espresso, as well as Reuben Hills filter coffee and a rotating roster of smaller roasters. After your caffeine fix, try the drinking vinegars imported from Portland.

These fermented drinks - choose from pomegranate, honey, ginger and chinese celery flavours - are fizzy, sweet and tart. Food-wise, there’s spaghetti bolognese on sourdough topped with a fried egg, or kumera and scrambled egg hash with pulled pork, guacamole and salsa. It may not be beachy, but it’s a winner. RG

19 Whistler St, Manly, 9976 5000, showboxcoffee.com.au

Maslow’s, Naremburn

It might be “sleepy old Naremburn” but this northern suburb has a gem of a cafe in Maslow’s. A few doors down from NSW Treasurer Gladys Berejiklian’s office is the cafe, relocated after a stint as a pop-up in a garage space in Pymble. The Japanese-inspired menu of Jack New is pleasingly concise - there’s a certain confidence in a menu that spans burgers, asparagus tart, dashi omelette, nigiri and onsen egg salad.

It also also offers coffee from Drop Coffee and Seven Seeds. So yes, it might be a sleepy old suburban strip, but Maslow’s has given it sparkle. VH

286 Willoughby Rd, Naremburn, 8937 4518, maslows.com.au

The Roots Espresso, North Sydney

While this northern outpost of the CBD is awash with cafes, there are few standout joints for the captive lunch crowd of office workers. The Roots Espresso has taken filled this gap in the market and marked its territory with a cool mixture of healthy eats and dude food. The buzzy atmosphere is testament to its popularity, so much so that the place has recently taken over the space next door, too.

If you’re in the mood to indulge, try the Yeezus (son of Mary) burger; a nod to the Newtown institution, religion and Kanye West all in one meaty dish, served with barbecue fries. Caffeine is also taken seriously, rotating between beans from Seven Seeds, Reuben Hills, Dukes, and Single Origin - pair a coffee with a house-baked muffin for a killer morning tea. VH

Shop 7, 2 Elizabeth Plaza, North Sydney, 0478 708 307, therootsespresso.com.au

OVERALL WINNER: Cornersmith, Marrickville

There are Sydney cafes and then there’s Cornersmith - the inner-west institution that’s everything good about Sydney food, and then some. Owners Alex Elliott-Howery and James Grant have an ethos of using seasonal, local, ethical and sustainable produce - much of it mined from the backyards of willing neighbours - without compromising on the innovation or excellence of their food. From a menu written on a blackboard above the wooden counter, opt for dishes you won’t find in your average chain cafe.

Try soft-poached Archerfield Farm eggs with sourdough and beautifully spiced pumpkin chutney, and pair it with smoky chickpeas and ham from pasture-raised pigs for a satisfyingly approachable yet refreshingly different breakfast.

The lunchtime ploughman’s plate comprising ham, Maffra cheddar, pink lady apple, Cornersmith pickles and mustards, sourdough and Pepe Saya butter is the stuff of legend, while nice touches include a sublime apple and rose shake. Perhaps best of all is that you can take Cornersmith home with you, with the pressed-tin walls lined with jars of produce made at the nearby Cornersmith picklery.

Sure, the cafe can get busy, with every inch of this small wedge of ex-corner store crammed to capacity at weekends (and, frankly, during most weekdays) but staff remain unfailingly friendly even under pressure. The recent publication of Cornersmith’s first cookbook (Cornersmith, Murdoch Books, $50) cements the venue’s place as top apple on Sydney’s cafe tree. EM

314 Illawarra Rd, Marrickville, 8065 0844, cornersmith.com.au

West Juliett, Marrickville

Home-made pastries and baked goods, soda made on site, eggs sourced from a single farm. Sounds just like the old-fashioned corner store this popular café used to be. Perhaps this very retro charm explains why, even on weekdays, this light, airy space is chockers.

Not that the food is dated. Rather, there’s a cool urban edge to dishes that include salted caramel French toast with vanilla bean bosc pear and ricotta, and poached eggs, avocado, feta and dukkah on toast.

That the produce is carefully selected, the cakes and yoghurts handmade on-site and the superb White Horse coffee is seasonally sourced also does much to explain why the inner-westie crowd is deeply enamored of West Juliett, even if it is closed on Sundays. FG

30 Llewellyn St, Marrickville, 9519 0101, facebook.com/westjuliettcafe

Brewtown, Newtown

It’s not only about the coffee at this warehouse-style space in a laneway off King St. But with the beans roasted on-site, and connoisseur blends such as Ethiopian yukro limu on offer, coffee is certainly a big part of the Brewtown experience.

Sip an excellent flat white as you take your pick from a breakfast menu that ranges from an oh-so-sweet vegan bircher muesli to the savoury “dhalicious”: baked polenta, spiced lentils, spinach, truss tomatoes and poached eggs. If you have room, try a slab of homemade pumpkin bread.

If not, grab a house-baked brewnut or cruffin on your way out, or maybe one of the 250g packs of coffee. Lunch options start at toasted baguettes and work up to a sesame-encrusted yellow-fin tuna salad. FG

6-8 O’Connell St, Newtown, 9519 2920, brewtownnewtown.com

Excelsior Jones, Ashfield

It’s easy to see why Excelsior Jones is so popular. Tucked away in a quiet part of the inner-west better known for solid Federation houses than eateries, this kid-friendly café brings in locals delighted to have somewhere so relaxed and charming within walking distance, as well as diners from further afield drawn to a menu that stands out from the crowd.

Co-owners James Naylor and Anthony Svilicich (ex-Le Monde, Surry Hills) do, at lunch, house-smoked salmon and potato hash with poached egg that’s true comfort food, while vegetarians shouldn’t miss an unusual construct of broad beans, peas and edamame with Danish feta and poached eggs on sourdough. FG

139a Queen St, Ashfield, 9799 3240, excelsiorjones.com

Fleetwood Macchiato, Erskineville

It’s all in the name at this cool little inner-west cafe. Firstly, everyone knows that the the macchiato is the beverage of choice for the serious coffee drinker; the “stain” of milk takes care of the bean’s bitterness and delivers an efficient caffeine hit, with nothing else required. Secondly, there could never be a better name for a cafe.

Even though the speakers pump out Motown classics rather than Rumours-era Fleetwood Mac, you can’t help but feel you’re in good hands. And that’s an experience borne out by the food, juices and very good Sample coffee. The innovative, international all-day menu means the anarchic epicurean can tuck into a braised pork sandwich or smashed egg breakfast roll early in the day or pickled salad with ham, morcilla and chorizo, or black beans and poached eggs at lunch. VH

43 Erskineville Rd, Erskineville, 9557 9291, fleetwoodmacchiato.tumblr.com

Illi Hill, Marrickville

If you can manage to navigate the vicissitudes of the seating policy here (wait to be seated, even if there’s no queue or risk wait-staff wrath), there are some tasty rewards on offer. Set in the site of a former neighbourhood store and deli, Illi Hill is a standout in suburb where there’s increasing competition for top-cafe status.

The excellent coffee comes from Little Marionette, and if you’re a first timer, go right ahead and scan the menu - sure, you might consider the scrambled green eggs or avocado smash, but it’s the ricotta and buttermilk hotcakes that will call your name. With dark chocolate praline and saffron poached pear, the dish is more of dessert than breakfast, but it’s worth giving in to its sweet temptation. VH

72 Illawarra Rd, Marrickville, 0408 609 879

Brickfields, Chippendale

Not so long ago, Chippendale had very little to offer in the way of places to eat. But the wonders of urban renewal has seen this ’hood now positively bursting with palatable food options. Early to the party was Brickfields, a small cafe and bakery that has some of the best pastries and breads in town, and where competition for a seat at the counter inside is hot.

If it’s dining-in you’re after, wait for a pavement bench table and select from a menu that changes regularly.

Or if time pressures defeat you, the take-away options are just as rewarding, with sandwiches, cakes and quiches elevated beyond the simple to queue-worthy delights. Staples include must-try Persian love cake whose humble appearance belies its sweet perfection. VH

206 Cleveland St, Chippendale, 9698 7880, brickfields.com.au

Ham, Cronulla

First things first - Ham is not a cafe dedicated strictly to the magnificence that is pig, but venue that takes its name from the initials of owners Harry and Mario (Kapoulas). Get it? Yes we do, as do the hordes of locals who crowd this tiny but appealing Greek deli-cum-cafe all day, every day. What do they come for?

Well, there’s the stuff every good Greek lad would serve if his yiayia were to visit - spanakopita, ricotta and spinach in filo, pastitisio, yemista (baked capsicum stuffed with lamb and rice) and, of course, baklava made by Harry and Mario’s mum. Then there are paninis sold by the bucketload, while milky iced frappes are godsends on hot Cronulla days. A weekly showcase coffee is complemented by cold brew, cold drip and mochamaster filter coffee options. RG

3/17 Gerrale St, Cronulla, 8521 7219, hamharryandmario.com

SOUTH WINNER: Kepos Street Kitchen, Redfern

This bright little cottage cafe may look unassuming, but chef Michael Rantissi’s fresh Middle Eastern cookery has afforded him an extraordinary cult following. And why not, when brunch includes crisp discs of falafel with green tahini, a heavenly cauliflower salad with mint, parsley, walnut, pistachio and cranberry, or Moroccan pine nut cigars with goat’s cheese, soft-boiled egg and a Vegemite tahini dipping sauce. The mocktails - loaded with fruit and herbs - are a speciality, and if there’s no room spare in the tiny dining space (there usually isn’t), move up the road to the newly opened Kepos & Co to try your luck there. RG

96 Kepos St, Redfern, 9319 3919, keposstreetkitchen.com.au

Black Star Pastry, Rosebery and Newtown

Over two locations - a newer Rosebery venture and the original Newtown store - pastry chef Christopher The has developed a recipe for cafe success through quirky details. Think designer crockery, house-brewed iced tea and DIY toast stations.

But it’s his dizzying array of cakes and pastries that have cemented his reputation as one of Sydney’s best patissiers. Sweet-tooths are spoilt for choice with options like brioche bread-and-butter pud, alcoholic almond croissants, a vegan chocolate popcorn cake and orange cake with myrtle fig, not to mention his signature watermelon cake. Then there are the savoury options - The’s immaculate lamb shank and red wine pie is legendary. KP

85-113 Dunning Ave, Rosebery; 227 Australia St, Newtown, 9557 8656, blackstarpastry.com.au

Mecca, Alexandria

Once off the deeply unlovely thoroughfare on which this venue is located, step inside this cafe and find a temple of zen so calming you may never leave. The flagship of the Sydney-wide Mecca chain, this former warehouse has been transformed into an emporium – out back, huge bean roasters hum and whir, while out front, coffee lovers sit at well-spaced tables and look upon sculptural bunches of flowers illuminated by the natural light that pours through the lovely arched windows.

Food wise, a trend-conscious menu meanders from neat little rolls of pasture-raised ham, fried egg, green tomato and plum jam to a deeply health-conscious salad of lentils, roasted leeks, coriander, leaves and tahini. Mecca is a small pocket of light in a grey world. EM

26 Bourke Rd, Alexandria, 9698 8448, meccacoffee.com.au

The Copper Mill, Alexandria

Inner-west grunge meets industrial cool at this pumping, box-like café. Go for natty rolls and breakfasts that include a “Peruvian roll” stuffed with sliced pork belly, a fried egg, roasted sweet potato, salsa and mayo – all for the princely sum of $10 – or comfort brunch fare like spiced chickpea “baked beans” with oregano, poached egg and sourdough. Take your choice of coffee from either Reuben Hills or Golden Cobra blends, or try the coconut hot chocolate that’s a speciality. EM

338-356 Mitchell Rd, Alexandria, 9517 3214, thecoppermill.com.au

Single O, Botany

Sydney’s most delicious coffee can be found at this obscurely located café and roastworks in the back streets of deeply industrial Botany. Sit on the sunny little balcony and order a latte just for the pleasure of receiving it in a hand-pottered cup that will make your coffee taste even better, and while you’re there sup on delightful salads such as chicken with quinoa, carrot and ricotta, or roasted veg with orange and couscous.

The hungry should try rolls that include a cracking interpretation of a pulled pork bun with apple, cabbage and pickles. And there’s nothing wrong with banana bread if it is served with espresso butter. Indeed, it’s just the thing for an early-morning heart starter. EM

28b Cranbrook St, Botany, 9316 9699, singleoriginroasters.com.au

Three Williams, Redfern

In the age of Instagram, every cafe has a thing and at Three Williams that thing is the narnie, a sandwich made with squishy, charred naan bread instead of the usual sourdough, crammed with fillings such as beef brisket, slaw, gherkins and chipotle mayo, or lamb and cumin-spiced eggplant, rocket and sriracha mayo.

Happily, the narnie photographs as well as it eats. But look beyond the narnies, because the interesting all-day breakfast list includes smoked salmon on steamed brioche with cream cheese, fennel and currant salad and garlic bruschetta with smoked tomato, cavolo nero and chilli-marinated ricotta. Single Origin supplies the coffee, the peanut caramel shake is worth the calories and there’s even a play area for kids tucked away at the back so you can eat, or Instagram, in peace. RG

613a Elizabeth St, Redfern, 9698 1111, threewilliamscafe.com

Tartine, Mascot

The humble jaffle, once the domain of impoverished students and those allergic to cooking, stars at this buzzy venue. The creation Anthony Telford, former head chef at Balmoral’s Public Dining Room, Tartine is all about creative uses of bread (the eponymous tartine being French for toast with bread and jam). So there’s toast, jaffles and open sandwiches, mostly, all of which proves you don’t need much more than great (Brasserie) bread and excellent (Grinders) coffee to make a place hum.

From the jaffle section of the menu choose fillings like shredded beef, crispy onion, gruyere, chives or chicken, mayonnaise, fennel pollen and rocket. Or, those with a nostalgic bent might prefer soldiers with coddled egg. For sweet tooths? French toast jaffle stuffed with strawberries, bien sur. RG

2/635 Gardeners Rd, Mascot, 9700 9847, tartineaustralia.com

The Juice Box, Matraville

Is the Juice Box’s $8.50 beef burger Sydney’s best value hamburger? That’s the question that presents itself as you order at this immensely unassuming sidewalk cafe that’s as old-school as they come. But if beef is not your thing, try instead one of the easy-to-eat salad rolls and sandwiches that won’t set you back more than a couple of bucks.

Then again, what really brings the locals to the Box is the excellent Karmee coffee, the best in the area, and the fresh juices and smoothies made while you wait. You might even run into some celebrity faces while you’re idling at your umbrella-shaded outdoor table. EM

1/1215 Anzac Pde, Malabar, 9661 5115, facebook.com/juice-box-cafe

Bread and Circus Wholefoods Canteen, Alexandria

If you’re a history buff, you’ll already know that it was the Romans who declared baked goods and entertainment as a means of keeping the population happy, and hey, when it comes to this cafe in Alexandria, it works for us too. It’s a cornucopia in an industrial setting, with produce and preserves pleasingly presented on every available surface.

There’s also a distinctly retro feel about the place, with its slightly hippie interpretation of wholefoods and pink crockery (in fact there’s pink everywhere); a vibe enhanced by Elton John, Supertramp and Pink Floyd that’s pumping through the speakers. Much thought has been given to the coffee too, with smaller cups offering just the right balance of Marvell Street Coffee and milk, while the menu’s ’70s flair has been given a contemporary twist; try “breakfast with Gwyneth” - a quinoa, kale and eggs combo - or indulge with flourless pancakes, served with to-die-for caramelised bananas and fresh ricotta. VH

21 Fountain St, Alexandria, 0418 214 425, breadandcircus.com.au

The Grounds of Alexandria, Alexandria

There’s certainly nothing else like this mega-venue housed magnificently in a former Alexandria pie factory, and its popularity has not abated since it opened three years ago. In fact, such are the incessant crowds that you may need to employ tactical measures akin to an SAS exercise to ensure you a) get a car spot and, b) a table.

Eight am on a weekday may be your only chance of success in that regard, so plan ahead. If you get there, the effort is worth it, for this huge industrial space, split into various eating spots and gardens, with an onsite petting zoo and florist to boot, is truly lovely.

Cafe fare includes the signature avocado on toast, fattoush, burgers and a great reuben sandwich, or a large selection of luscious cakes and pastries, all displayed in several glass cabinets. It’s industrial-strength nice, even if the energy required to actually get inside is almost defeating. KP

Building 7a, 2 Huntley St, Alexandria, 9699 2225, thegrounds.com.au

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