Sueno restaurant: Moreton Bay bug tacos set to rival Rick Shores’ famous rolls

The seafood-heavy menu at this new Gold Coast eatery from the team behind Rick Shores delivers a tasty morsel that could soon outshine the Burleigh restaurant’s most famous dish.

Rooftop bar and restaurant Sueno has opened at The Oxley 1823 development in Mermaid Beach. Picture: Mathilde Bouby

As we make our way into Sueno – the new, much-hyped rooftop bar and eatery from the team behind Queensland culinary hotspot Rick Shores – a staff member walks past carrying a mop and bucket.

The Latin American-inspired venue opened around Christmas at Gold Coast “it” development, The Oxley 1823 in Mermaid Beach, and is a sister venue to Norte downstairs by the same operators.

While Norte is dark, moody and sophisticated, taking the food of countries such as Argentina, Peru, Mexico and Brazil and elevating it to approachable luxury; Sueno is its light and bright, casual sibling, specialising in easy bites like ceviche, tortillas and skewers best enjoyed on the umbrella-clad balconies with glimpses of the ocean.

Sueno restaurant is a light and bright counter to its downstairs sister venue Norte. Picture: Mathilde Bouby

But on my visit – about three weeks after its launch – those balconies are off limits thanks to relentless rain, and the multimillion-dollar fit-out inside has sprung a leak, with water dripping from the sunshine-yellow ceiling, barely missing diners seated at high tables. While things are a little soggy, it’s not enough to dampen the spirits of the staff, who remain buoyant and seemingly carefree about the imminent flooding.

It’s perhaps because their job has become easier with two-thirds of the venue closed by the rain, and enough workers to cater to a full house. It means we’re attended to promptly, our waiter eager to walk us through the menu and his favourites from the seafood-heavy line-up running from baby abalone with fermented habaneros to Moreton Bay bug ceviche, mushroom tostadas and five asado options including octopus and chargrilled prawns, each served with tortillas and accompaniments.

We kick things off following his suggestion of the hiramasa kingfish ceviche ($27). Based on the classic Peruvian dish, the thickly diced fish is marinated in leche de tigre or “milk of the tiger” – essentially lime juice, salt and fish stock – with this version also emulsifying avocado to add a luscious creaminess and balance out the acid. Scooped up with corn chips, it’s a great match for our pisco-based “Bucho” from the succinct drinks list of signature cocktails, just over a dozen wines and three beers. For oenophiles, however, Norte’s full list from downstairs is also available in Sueno and is well worth a look.

The kingfish ceviche is a hit on the seafood-heavy menu. Picture: Mathilde Bouby

Next up are Moreton Bay bug tacos ($18 each) cooked supposedly on the spit to develop a charry crust leaving the inside juicy and tender, complemented by pickled onions and a fennel slaw. While Rick Shores has become famous for its use of Moreton Bay bugs in its signature brioche roll, Sueno may just become renowned for this bite-sized snack.

We try the king salmon skewer on a burnt onion puree ($21), but had I known the size of the two asados coming, I would have skipped it.

First up (after a rather long delay) is the barbecue pork carnitas ($49) with a mountain of slow-cooked, Mexican-style pulled pork waiting to be loaded into warm, soft, corn tortillas and topped with jalapeños, pico de gallo and crema from three accompanying bowls. There’s enough of the succulent, crispy-edged meat to easily make eight tacos, but only four palm-sized tortillas available. More tortillas and a warning about the portions would be welcome.

Grilled octopus at Sueno. Picture: Mathilde Bouby

Grilled prawns. Picture: Mathilde Bouby

The buttermilk chicken asado is just as large ($32), with eight pieces of the delicately battered, karaage-like chook ready to fill just a quartet of petite tortillas. Sure, you can simply dip the remaining chicken bites into the brilliantly smoky accompanying chipotle mayo and enjoy sans tortilla, but it seems a shame not to eat them as the taco they were intended to be.

We’re too full to fit in dessert, but our waiter insists that of the two options – a smoked agave panna cotta and a classic caramel flan, the latter is the winner. It’s a reason for a return visit, that and to enjoy the rooftop venue as it is intended – outside amid the sunshine and sea breezes.

2217 Gold Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach

5621 0496

norte.restaurant

Open

Tue-Wed 4.15pm-late; Thu-Sun midday-late

Must try

Moreton Bay bug taco

Verdict

Food: 4 out of 5

Service: 3.5 out of 5

Ambience: 3.5 out of 5

Value: 4 out of 5

Overall: 3.5 out of 5

delicious.com.au/eatout

Originally published as Sueno restaurant: Moreton Bay bug tacos set to rival Rick Shores’ famous rolls