Sydney’s best chefs reveal city’s most underrated restaurants
There’s the saying; ‘You want a good restaurant recommendation, ask a local. You want a great one? Ask a chef’. So that’s what Amy Harris did to find Sydney’s most underrated restaurants. HOW MANY HAVE YOU BEEN TO?
Chances are the people who work in food and wine steer clear of the obvious hot spots in favour of hidden gems that, for whatever reason, fly well under the foodie radar.
According to Merivale’s Jordan Toft — who oversees the award-winning Bert’s and Coogee Pavillion — a great industry favourite must be combination of ‘classic but also progressive’, ‘cool but also unpretentious’, ‘busy but not the current ‘it’ spot’ and, of course, good value.
“They’re those places that, come Monday when most hospo people might go out for lunch, immediately pop into your mind,” Toft says.
Here are the Sydney restaurants that tick every box, according to 17 of the best chefs and sommeliers in the city.
Neil Perry (Culinary and Brands director, The Rockpool Group)
CHACO BAR, SURRY HILLS.
“Chaco Bar in Crown Street has the best ramen in town during the day and then the best yakitori at night. I also love Danjee Korean BBQ in Albion Street it’s awesome.”
Hamish Ingham (Executive chef and owner, Banksii Vermouth Bar & Bistro)
MOXHE RESTAURANT
“David Coumont is an underrated chef — his food is totally amazing and I don’t believe Moxhe gets enough credit for its high quality and supreme cooking. David’s passion is so inspiring — he visits the fish and veg markets daily to select the freshest produce for Moxhe’s seafood-based menu. His partner and Moxhe’s co-owner Hellen makes working the floor look like child’s play — she’s also curated a great wine list.”
Jordan Toft (Head chef at Bert’s, The Newport Arms and Coogee Pavillion)
FRATELLI PARADISO, POTTS POINT
“This is a place that strikes the balance so perfectly. The menu is progressive but still classic, the wine list is new and interesting yet still has some timeless drops on it and the location is really nice.
“It’s in Challis Avenue in Potts Point and you can sit and stare at these gorgeous old terrace houses and it has that lovely European feel about it.
“There have been so many times where we’re trying to think of a place to have lunch on a Monday and more often than not we say; “The Frat’ or Frat Paz’. It’s an institution.”
Joel Bickford (Aria head chef)
ARTHUR, SURRY HILLS
“While still very new, Arthur has been a real quiet achiever in its first few months but is delivering some of Sydney’s tastiest and most approachable food. It has a great future for sure.
“I also have to mention Fratelli Paradiso which never fails with its clean authentic Italian cuisine. The Apollo (Potts Point) is also another staple Sydney gem.
SUNDAY TELEGRAPH EAT STREET
HIDDEN FOODIE TREASURES ON HARRIS ST, PYRMONT
TOP DINING SPOTS IN CROWN ST, SURRY HILLS
EXPERIENCE CULTURAL FOODIE DELIGHTS IN LAKEMBA
Colin Fassnidge (MKR judge)
SPICE I AM. SURRY HILLS
“Hot and spicy, full of flavour, well priced Thai food for Thai people and lovers of Thai food.
“The place is small with an average fit out but that’s part of it’s charm!”
Barry McDonald (Owner, Cafe Giorgio, Kings Cross. Founder of Fratelli Fresh)
BIBO WINE BAR, DOUBLE BAY
“(Head chef) Jose Silva is such an amazing chef and the menu at this place is fantastic. There’s always amazing dishes and I love what Jose does with different flavours. The wine list too is outstanding and the place has a lovely ambience.”
Louella Mathews, (Sommelier at Bibo Wine Bar Double Bay)
THE WINE LIBRARY, PADDINGTON
“I feel like people have forgotten how awesome this venue is. I have fond memories of living and studying in Orange and being excited to go to the big smoke so I could try crazy wonderful wines at the Wine Library. Recent new ownership has given it a fresh approach with new renovations taking place also. Food is innovative and in true wine bar style — snack focused and some more substantial offerings. Making it very easy for one drink to turn into an enjoyable memorable dinner. Honourable mention also to Annata in Willoughby.“
Maurice Terzini (owner Icebergs Dining and Bar, The Dolphin Hotel, Da Orazio + Porchetta)
THE BOATHOUSE AT BAYSWATER
“Two decades of commitment to local seafood and yet stays under the radar. But it consistently provides a great experience. Just hard to get to!
“Two other gigs that are totally underrated; Momufuku bar menu. I was just there a few weeks ago and it was incredible but no one really talks about it. And of course Icebergs bar.
“I’m biased but you can have a nice experience at a third of the price and sit on the Pacific Ocean.”
Troy Spencer (Executive chef at NOLA Smokehouse and Bar. Barangaroo)
FAHEEM FAST FOOD, ENMORE
“This place has been around for forever and serve probably the most legitimate Pakistani food you’ll get in Sydney. Their curries are brilliant and I never go past their stuffed Naan.”
Ed Sargent, (Executive chef at 4 Pines Brewing Company)
THE DODGY INDIAN, DEE WHY
“If you decide to include the word “dodgy” in the name of your restaurant you are either insane or very confident of your cooking skills. Thankfully “The Dodgy Indian” in Dee Why falls into the latter category. As a Londoner almost the only thing I miss about the mother country is Indian food.
“This restaurant wouldn’t be out of place on any East end London street. The cooking is assured, delicious and a departure from the clichéd array of dishes that pass for authentic Indian cuisine in Australia.”
Arman Uz (Head chef, Babylon. Opening in May on Westfield Sydney Level 7 rooftop)
JAAKS AT THE KYLE BAY, KYLE BAY
“This place always delivers when it comes to good food and service. I dine with my family often and their Mediterranean menu is great for sharing with large groups. My favourite dishes include haloumi with honey, tarama on squid ink crackers, butterflied and grilled Snowy Mountain River trout and slow cooked lamb shoulder with tzatziki. And there’s free parking — bliss!”
Clayton Wells (Head chef Automata and A1 Canteen)
EMMA’S SNACK BAR, ENMORE
“One of the best Lebanese meals in Sydney. Lots of traditional dishes but then they have some fun with a few too. Always delicious and great for a quick meal with a mate or a long night with a big group. Plus, it’s BYO so you can have a lot of fun with that too.”
Darryl Martin (Barzaari, Chippendale)
CASONI, DARLINGHURST
“Casoni seems to tick all the boxes in such an honest and delicious way. One of Sydney’s few remaining passionate, scrupulous and authentic chefs is found here plugging away with bucket loads of energy, experience & genuine hospitality.
“Also have to mention Fich in Petersham.
“This place is a household Sunday night favourite. The freshest seafood, always varied and always prepared with such pride and professionalism.”
Jacqui Challinor (Head chef, Nomad).
ASH ST CELLAR, SURRY HILLS
“This place has always been one of my favourites and has gone through the hands of some very talented chefs over the years. I don’t get there often enough but when I do, it never fails to impress. (Head chef) Jake Ahrens cooks the way that I like to eat — his food is no fuss, simple and delicious. The guy can cook! Honourable mention to Anason (Barangaroo) which serves the best taramasalata in Sydney!”
Jesse McTavish (Head chef, North Bondi Fish).
CHACO BAR, SURRY HILLS
It’s had a bit of hype in the past but when that settled they just kept on doing what they do and so consistently. I still get so excited every time I think of their yakitori.
“Also Chiosco by Ormeggio (Mosman). A good mate recommended Chiosco to me and I was blown away that you can get the same view as Ormeggio, with a super approachable menu curated by the legend Alessandro Pavoni.”
Giovanni Paradiso (Owner, Fratelli Paradiso)
DA ORAZIO + PORCHETTA, BONDI
“I love a venue which engages you, in way where all the senses are engaged, visually it’s good to look at, the room, the people, the energy. The sounds, the music, smell of wood burning oven and is quite tactile as in the surfaces feel good under touch. The food is tasty for when you come off the beach … beer and porchetta focaccia — PERFECT.”
Tim Perlstone, (Head sommelier at The Wine Library)
OSTERIA RIVA, BONDI
“This is one of those little paces that has been around for a long time and is so consistent. It’s very authentic Italian, they have a great wine list and it’s BYO as well which is always good.
“Also have to mention Mantecato in Balmain where all my Italian friends go and rave about it. They do the best risotto in the city.”
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