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Sydney restaurants poach staff as Covid continues to hit hospitality

A national shortage of staff in the hospitality industry has seen some dirty tactics used by bar and restaurant owners desperate for employees.

The Great Resignation: Post-pandemic trend hitting Australia

It is no secret the hospitality industry is fiercely competitive, however in the wake of Covid-19, it is being branded brutal and ruthless thanks to aggressive poaching of staff from venues desperate for employees.

Industry insiders are reporting the current shortage of sommeliers, maitre d’s, chefs and waitstaff has seen a bolshie approach from some major players, who are muscling in on the smaller independent operators to lure and poach staff.

It’s resulted in some of the city’s best known hospitality names being lured by the offer of big pay cheques to jump ship from one well-known venue to another.

Sunday Confidential has also heard of cases where employees from one venue have dined at another venue to scout decent workers, before tapping them on the shoulder and offering to double their wage.

Chef Joel Bickford has departed Aria for Shell House.
Chef Joel Bickford has departed Aria for Shell House.
Chef Enrico Tomelleri has departed Ragazzi and 10 William Street to open Paski.
Chef Enrico Tomelleri has departed Ragazzi and 10 William Street to open Paski.

“It’s always been competitive in the hospitality industry, but the behaviour some of the bigger groups is brazen and direct,” one restaurant owner who did not wish to be named said.

“Everyone is desperate.

“I don’t know whether it is the groups playing dirty, or whether it is recruitment.

“I think recruitment are moving people around and making a fortune.

“It is happening because we just don’t have that influx of sponsored staff, the nuts and bolts of a restaurant or venue.”

Juggernaut Crown Sydney is currently running at only 80 per cent capacity, due to a shortage of all types of staff.

“Crown have a lot of staff because they have the money but they don’t even have staff to clean the rooms and wait at their restaurants so are running at 80 per cent,” another insider said.

“They are in a better position than many to poach staff because they have that huge infrastructure behind them and can afford it.

“It is simple. The people who have money are winning the battle because they can offer more.”

Chef Tal Buchnik relocated within Merivale to Quarter Deck and Queen Chow in Narooma.
Chef Tal Buchnik relocated within Merivale to Quarter Deck and Queen Chow in Narooma.
Andrea Gualdi is rumoured to be moving to Ovolo Hotel Group.
Andrea Gualdi is rumoured to be moving to Ovolo Hotel Group.

It’s not just waitstaff who are in demand.

“Really good maitre d's, chefs and sommeliers are really hard to fill,” another well-known restaurant owner said.

“There is no one able to move interstate or internationally, so we have a very small pool to draw from.

“Neil Perry is working at his Margaret restaurant seven days. They are slammed and don’t have the people to keep going so he is in the kitchen.

“The people who have got the money are winning.

“Everybody is desperate.”

Among the well-known and respected restaurateurs who have lost staff in recent weeks are celebrity chef Matt Moran.

“Matt has had a few of his Aria staff go to Shell House,” another insider said.

“They took the head chef, Joel Bickford and also took the sommelier and the maitre ’.

“It is no reflection on Matt at all, he is known as being one of the best bosses in the industry.

“He goes above and beyond for his staff and went to great lengths to keep them working through the lockdown.”

Among the many hospitality figures on the move have been chef Orazio D’Elia who has departed Matteo to re-open D’Orazio in Bondi while chef Jemma Whiteman departed Pinbone and Billy Kwong to sake bar, Ante.

Sommelier Matt Young departed 10 William St and has moved to sake bar Ante in Newtown.

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Original URL: https://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/news/nsw/sydney-restaurants-poach-staff-as-covid-continues-to-hit-hospitality/news-story/a9378fbba2712ef902f06d40daea420a