Secret Suburb: Sydney’s Sans Souci is bathed in a rich history of saltwater, surf and sailing
THE Sydney suburb of Sans Souci, on the south-western side of Botany Bay, boasts yacht clubs, sailing clubs, beautiful beaches and swimming pools bathed in a rich history.
THE Sydney suburb of Sans Souci, on the south-western side of Botany Bay, boasts yacht clubs, sailing clubs, beautiful beaches and swimming pools bathed in a rich history.
Wrapped by a picturesque shoreline, it’s no surprise saltwater runs through the veins of Sans Soucians, many of whom are born and bred — and have never left.
With the commotion of the city behind you, and the calm waters of Botany Bay at your feet, you can see how this relatively small area got its name. Sans Souci is French for “without a care.” Technically, it got its name from the summer palace of Frederick the Great, King of Prussia, which is fine, but not quite sure his royalness would quite have appreciated the baths and fishing in the 1850s. By 1890, a steam tram was built between Kogarah and Sans Souci enabling more people to enjoy the area. Baths were opened in 1897 (and remained so until the mid 1960s); sailing became more popular, followed by virtually any water activity imaginable. As the town has evolved into a welcoming outdoor destination, it seems the more casual translation of Sans Souci is a bit more appropriate: “No worries.”
Baths — Sans Souci at Harris Street
Squint and you can almost see the modest bathers of the early 1900s with their swim caps and pantaloons, towels spread out on the sands in front of sky blue bathing pavilion. What is now a borderline ramshackle place, situated between an Olympic pool and water police was once packed with recreational and competitive swimmers, or others just looking for a reprieve from the summer heat. “At the height of its use, it wasn’t uncommon to have 500-600 people in the water,” explains Garry Darby, author of Baths and Boatsheds: the waterfront community at Sans Souci 1895 — 1965. “Back then, swimming was a really big community activity. The swimming leagues were family organisations.”
In addition to its social scene, the pavilion speaks to the era. Built in 1933 by Depression affected “relief workers”, the structure was a prime example of Art Moderne, an International style that focused on functionality, featured horizontal lines — and most of all, it was relatively cheap and easy to build. But take a peak inside the now abandoned building you’ll see even more amazing artefacts from a bygone time — a tube of Milo, a rusted Kelvinator and a rotary phone. Ancient!
Senior Social Monday at Dolls Point
Saturdays and Sundays, the Sans Souci and Dolls Point walking paths are busy with exactly what you’d expect: joggers, parents with prams and recreational riders. But after the weekend warriors head back to the office, the senior social scene lays claim to the turf. Five to a bench, and with belly laughs that come about only with a good prank, you’d half expect these groups to get pulled up for wagging class. You’d definitely want to be one of the popular kids around here.
Kiss the Barista — stop in for a coffee
This little hub of activity is an adorable community affair. You may just pop in for a coffee but it’s the design and decor that say you’re welcome to stay as long as you’d like. And people do. There’s the duo at a side table, absorbed in a game of chess, the two-seater lounges overlooking Georges River and true to its name, a huge red lipstick kiss on the wall. When I say huge, I mean giant. It’s over-the-top, but move in a bit closer and you’ll see that it is surrounded by small polaroid pictures of customers, friends and family with big grins — kind of like they’d just been kissed.
Painted Heart — look down to find the hidden message
Urban legend or just random, it seems there are plenty of theories about the origins of the faded red-painted heart along the footpath outside Georges River 16ft Sailing Club. Some say it’s a tidal marker, others call it innocent graffiti and then there are the more detailed stories like how these hearts are distance markers for a seniors strolling path, or the sad tale of a fundraising 5km run for a disadvantaged young boy. Each kilometre was marked by a red heart, represented each of his five years of age. Truth is, explains club chairman James Newell-Courtney, it was to commemorate the World Cherub Championships — sort of like high-end dinghies with flash sails — held there in 1998. Appropriately enough, their class symbol is a big red heart, maybe because chubby little angels with wings were a bit hard to paint.
Botany Bay Yacht Club — Friday happy hour
“Rock up on a Friday evening, introduce yourself and you’re certain to get a ride on a boat with anyone headed out for a twilight cruise,” explains Colin Cole, former Commodore of the Botany Bay Yacht Club. That “come one, come all” attitude isn’t just talk; it’s evident from the rugged shipwrights around the yard pausing to give a welcoming nod. This is the type of place that should set the standard for any club — particularly a volunteer club. Technically, it’s a yacht club, but you don’t really need to own a boat to join. You don’t even have to know how to sail, but if you are keen to give it a go, you can start off by crewing on any of the sail boats headed out for an evening cruise. There is racing of course during the warmer months, but guessing that’s just another excuse to have a sausage sizzle and a sail.
Botany Bay Stand Up Paddle Club
These guys essentially started stand-up paddle boarding in Sydney. Admit it. Standing up on a surfboard and pushing it along with a stick in flat water, looks pretty easy, but after 17 unsuccessful attempts of just trying to get on this devious contraption, you’ll definitely think otherwise. And that slow moving part? With all the effort you just exerted, the slightest forward motion is going to feel like victory. But you get that mastered, you’ll start to feel the need for speed. That’s where downwinding comes in. “We drive a bus to the top of Georges River and let a good wind and fast current help push you along back to base camp, explain John Slender of Botany Bay Stand-up Paddle Club. Follow that with a beer with your new buddies and it looks like you’ve just found yourself a new sport.
Kite Surfing — follow the breeze
Kite surfing. A sport that looks like it was dreamt up by an adventurous 12 year-old kid who used pillowcases as parachutes. Like any invention, there are always inspirations; in this case, it’s equal parts kite flying, surfing, snow boarding, and gymnastics. “You see people who go out for the first time, come back to shore with a grin like they’d just reinvented the wheel,” says Shannon McPherson of KiteSport Lessons. He explains that the lift that allows you to do the airborne tricks — what is known as Freestyling — is like what you’d get from being pulled behind a speedboat. “With the wind, you could be out there every day, but after a six hour stint, you need to rest, “says Shannon, “and that’s what work is for.”
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