Secret Suburb: Mulgoa is a lovely mix of the past and present
MORE than a gateway to the Blue Mountains, Mulgoa has tempted city dwellers as the perfect getaway for more than a century. Explore the region with Jenifer Jagielski.
MORE than a gateway to the Blue Mountains, Mulgoa has tempted city dwellers as the perfect getaway for more than a century. Explore the region with Jenifer Jagielski.
Bookbinder
There is actually a proper way in which to open a new book and just to make sure it was done correctly, in the early to mid-1900s, bookbinders E.C. Chapman & Co. printed the instructions on a slip of paper that was included with each book:
“Open a few leaves at the back, then a few at the front, and so go on alternatively opening back and front, gently pressing on the section till you reach the centre…”
Technically that concept still stands, though we think nothing of cracking open a paperback and folding back the pages before a long-haul flight or a read on the beach.
But taking a peek into Edward (Ted) Chapman’s bookbinding workshop, its shelves loaded with spools of leather, wooden trays of tiny letters, gold leaf for lettering and presses that date back to when his grandfather started the business in 1890, it’s easy to understand how for book binders, breaking the back of an old book would be like breaking a heart.
The Cottage – James Broadbent
Considering that William Cox, the same man who built the first road across the Blue Mountains in 1814 is also the one that built The Cottage in Mulgoa in 1811, it’s no wonder his family home is still standing.
Granted its needed a little love, actually quite a bit, to bring it back to life, its current owner, noted architect and architectural historian, Dr James Broadbent eagerly took on the task in the 1970, making it now the oldest owner-occupied house in Australia.
Stripping everything back to its bare bones and omitting any modern conveniences, including water and electricity, he has made this a historical reflection of early colonial resilience.
Fernhill – Equestrian excellence
Recognised globally for his excellent quality of wool production – including awards at the 1878 World’s Fair in Paris - Edward Cox (son of William Cox) became known for the careful breeding of his father’s merino sheep herds.
While he had similar success with cattle, Edward made quite the name for the Fernhill estate by using the same principles on race horses, breeding the 1880 Melbourne Cup winner, Grand Flaneur who then sired two more Melbourne Cup winners.
Equestrian excellence continues at Fernhill with former Olympic show jumper Greg McDermott training future Olympic riders, including his son Tom McDermott a medallist at the 2010 Youth Olympics in Seoul.
And the long tradition of horse racing has returned to the estate.
After a meticulous renovation of the original track, Fernhill can once again host races that could someday produce more cup winners but in the meantime, they’re happy to host family friendly picnic day races.
Mulgoa Valley Reception
The golden rule of weddings is never to outshine the bride. That’s usually a mandate directed at bridesmaids but what happens when the local wildlife looks set to take centre stage?
At Mulgoa Valley Receptions, the rolling hills and birdlife around the lake are the backdrop for the romantic ceremony, but come photo time, that’s when the big surprise comes out: a pair of camels that are more than happy to kiss the bride.
Lemac (camel spelled backwards) and Omar were originally brought in to keep the land clear of blackberry bushes and thistle explains Mulgoa Valley Receptions owner, Karren Thomas, adding that their cheeky inquisitiveness quickly became an endearing feature of the venue’s events.
Now, couples can’t wait to incorporate the two gents into the photos of their special day.
Of course, all the frivolity isn’t reserved just for matrimony, the camels and a slew of other farm characters, including two peacocks, also come around for High Tea throughout the week.
St Thomas Anglican Church
When the humble home of the Cox family became too small for prayer services that was a sure sign that Mulgoa had grown and needed a church of its own.
And as the pastures in the valley had brought prosperity to many of the town’s landowners, it’s befitting that with their contributions, the community would gather at this proud chapel.
Built in 1838 on picturesque hilltop land provided by the Cox family, as well as sandstone from their estates, this gothic structure with stained glass windows hasn’t needed much restoration.
That is since its last major construction was undertaken where part of the foyer had to be removed to accommodate the delivery of the Walker organ…. in 1868.
In the nearby cemetery, burial memorials baring the Cox name are reminders of the family’s contribution to western Sydney’s development.
Emmanuel Margolin – Zookeeper
Build it and they will come. Or so mega-millionaire and Sydney eccentric Emmanuel Margolin thought when he added the world’s largest private zoo with over 3000 species to his 42-hectracre estate, Notre Dame, in the 1980s.
The property already boasted a decadent chateau complete with waterfalls, a tropical rainforest and a helipad, as well as 3000 fairy lights he claimed were visible at night from the Westfield (formerly Centrepoint) tower.
Alas, the tourists didn’t come in the droves like he’d expected and the grand production that had been dubbed “the greatest house in the world” on the TV show, Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous had to be sold.
All its contents, like a basket of emu eggs, twin suits of armour and stuffed alligators were auctioned off as well.
Since then, the estate has passed through a number of hands and rumour has it that it’s slated for development.
As for all the animals, most went to other zoos and the RSPCA was able to take some in as well.
Mount Schoenstatt Shrine
After a week of endless noise and incessant chatter it’s tempting to run for the hills to escape the clamour.
Headphones may help but for the seriously rattled, the serenity of a “beautiful place” is ideal.
In a quiet wooded area off the main roads is just such a spot: the Mount Schoenstatt Shrine or as its translated to from German, a “beautiful place”.
This tiny chapel that overlooks a quiet valley with only the sounds of nature is one of 200 identical shrines around the world that belong to the Schoenstatt Sisters, a secular group founded in Schoenstatt, Germany.
While the groups may be religious, the shrine is a serene place of contemplation intended for anyone looking for peace and tranquillity.
If a stroll around the gardens and an hour of reflection won’t settle those nerves, the sisters also rent out the cabins for weekend or week-long retreats – be it a church group or a quilting club – practically guaranteed to bring back your bliss.
Norah McManus – Yadiloh Studios
Long before polaroid, snap chat and selfies, Norah McManus and her father ran Yadiloh Studios - a same day turn-around for photos taken by the families holidaying at the fabulous guest houses in Mulgoa.
Considering this was in the early 1900s, that’s pretty forward thinking, but right on par for a studio that tended to look at things backward as “Yadiloh” is “holiday” spelled back to front.
History
As the base of the Blue Mountains, Mulgoa served as a natural boundary for two indigenous nations – the Gandagara people who were hunters from the mountains and the more coastal Dharug people to which the Mulgoa (meaning “blacks swan”) clan belonged.
European settlement of the area began in earnest in 1810 with land grants given to the four- year old son of William Cox, the man responsible for building the first road over the Blue Mountains and also the first house in Mulgoa, “The Cottage” which still stands today.
The landowners at the time, which included James Norton, the founder of Sydney’s first large firm, built large mansions overlooking the pastures and orchards on their properties.
After the economic depression of the late 1800s and a failed irrigations scheme following the depression of the early 1900s, many were forced to sell their estates, which then became holiday homes that lured guest with the promise of outdoor activities, dances, parlour games and because of the cattle, “cream in abundance”.
In historical librarian Lorraine Stalker’s book, Penrith: Making of a City, she notes that one visitor referred to the area as “so refreshing to city-worn wayfarers”.
As transport options increased post World War II, including the availability of cars, people looked elsewhere for their holiday destinations and once again, many of the houses fell into disrepair.
Some were sold off as private homes, while others, like George Cox’s Winbourne is now occupied by the Christian Brothers as a retreat.
But what will still remains is the natural beauty of Mulgoa with its gentle valley and elegant black swans.
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