Neighbourhood shops: Bathurst St, Greystanes

From the regulars at the deli to the beloved Thai restaurant and hairdresser, business at a western Sydney shopping village goes gangbusters. Enjoy the second instalment in Corner Store Heroes.

If you want to witness how special corner shops are, the group that gathers religiously outside the JNM Deli at Bathurst St, Greystanes, is testament to their popularity.

“We’ve got a group of pensioners, that ever since we had sold coffee, they’ll be there every single day at 10 o’clock on the dot,’’ JNM owner Joe Molluso said.

“They’re not related, they’re just friends and they’ve been coming every single day for eight years, even during Covid.

“There’s always a minimum of six but it can go to 10 or 12 a day.

“They’re the star attraction.’’

Any trader will tell you that a coffee machine is a sound business investment, but for Molluso, it’s often a way to treat his loyal regulars and he often shouts his regulars complimentary coffee.

“Where I am now, they’re not really like customers, they’re more like friends and family,’’ he said.

JNM Deli owner Joe Molluso (standing) looks after his customers, who love lingering for a coffee. Picture: John Appleyard

“We actually have a lot of people come from the north and south coast because there’s a lot of products they can’t get there. They used to live here and they come down here once a month and buy in bulk.’’

Greystanes was once a Maltese stronghold, and the shelves at JNM are still well stocked with Kinnie soft drink, pastizzi and treacle rings but with a growing Middle Eastern clientele, you can also find Lebanese bread and top notch garlic sauce alongside your traditional deli staples.

Molluso, who runs the business with his wife Nicky, daughters Josephine and “brilliant cook” Georgina, sister Katrina Stevens, sister-in-law Maria Lagana and Vicki Buttigieg, bought the business when it was at Greystanes Shopping Centre 16 years ago.

When the centre was renovated, the deli shifted to nearby Bathurst St eight years ago just after the June long weekend.

A mechanic by trade at Guildford Toyota, Molluso learned that running a deli involved more than a couple of products.

“Before I bought the shop I thought there was one salami, one ham and that’s it,’’ he said.

He orders six types of olive oil, sells the shop’s signature chicken schnitzels and arancini, and whips up sandwiches with crusty bread.

Josephine Molluso and her dad Joe make a smashing sandwich. Picture: John Appleyard

Customers munch on their breadrolls and meander to Bathurst Street Park for Saturday sport and tradies enjoy the non-pretentious tucker on offer.

“I love my tradies because they just want to eat,’’ Molluso said.

“As long as it tastes good, they’ll buy it and they’ll eat it.’’

With few stand-alone delicatessens around, he believes shoppers prefer buying from the specialty shop instead of a supermarket.

“I think these days we should always support small business,’’ he said.

“I can’t remember the last time I was in a supermarket. Being from an Italian background we were brought up with good food.’’

His business soared during Covid lockdowns so much exhausted staff had to cut back hours.

Nicky Molluso, Josephine Molluso, Joe Molluso, Vicki Buttigieg and Katrina Stevens. Picture: John Appleyard

With pubs and clubs closed, the aptly named Bathirst Liquor, run by Emmanuel Fatseas and his brother-in-law Spiro Cassimatis, also did well during lockdown.

The pair, who opened the business over 25 years ago, remains the longest serving employees at the Bathurst St shops.

“The shopping centre used to have a pharmacy, we had a butcher next to us once upon a time and we had a TAB,’’ Fatseas said.

“When Pemulwuy opened it was a tough time but then Pemulwuy filled up and there’s a lot of people in the area. As Pemulwuy became more established with a lot more people, we started getting a lot of people here as well.’’

Fatseas has loved serving familiar faces over the decades.

“Greystanes is a good, family-oriented area,’’ he said.

“You’re dealing with predominantly local people.

“When we first came here there was a lot of young families and then the kids grew up and became our customers.’’

Joel Crocker at Bathirst Liquor. Picture: John Appleyard

Thai Pattra’s brother and sister Pat and Manop Sriwongrach have also witnessed the generational change since opening their pint-sized but popular restaurant 14 years ago.

“We get the regular customers, they’re like your own family,’’ Pat said.

“Even as a baby they came, now they say ‘I want to go see Pat for my birthday’ so I see more generations want to have Thai food. Probably when I started there were more middle aged or older people.’’

Massaman beef curry and the pad cashew nut stir fry are the biggest drawcards and can be ordered to take away or enjoy at the 25-seat restaurant.

“The same customers order the same thing for 14 years and probably more young kids eat here because their mum and dad came here,’’ Pat said.

Bathurst St shops is home to six small businesses. Picture: John Appleyard

When Stavan Patel took over Goodfellas Pizzeria 11 years ago, he added his own stamp to the menu and included butter chicken, samosa and chicken peri peri pizzas alongside the traditional Italian variety such as the top-selling supreme pizza.

Fortunately the community welcomed him to the shopping village.

“When I bought that business I had a good response,’’ he said.

“It makes a huge difference when you take over from an existing business. If you don’t have the right customer base they won’t let you make the right progress.

“I love the community, I love the people living there.’’

At Final Finish Hair Design, locals keep their tresses in good shape thanks to owner Christine Kapp, who says her clients have kept her trading for almost 25 years.

“I love it, it’s just a good area and great people and a great little shopping centre.’’

For old fashioned fare of hamburgers and fish and chips, the set of shops is also home to the Bathurst St Take-Away while you can grab another endangered item like a newspaper and magazine, or maybe a Powerball ticket or undertake a money transfer, at the newsagency.

Outside the shop, you’ll find the Amazon Hub lockers where parcels can be collected.

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