Explore the seaside suburb of Coogee with its rich history and beach lifestyle
THIRD-generation Coogee resident Del Buchanan said it beautifully: “The holiday starts when you can smell the sea air.’’ Jenifer Jagielski takes you on a tour of one of our most iconic beach areas — Coogee.
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THIRD-generation Coogee resident Del Buchanan said it beautifully: “The holiday starts when you can smell the sea air.’’
Jenifer Jagielski takes you on a tour of one of our most iconic beach areas — Coogee.
Wirth’s Circus - Elephants on parade
When Philip Wirth built a rather large house, - six bedrooms with an ensuite in everyone - on a rather large piece of land on a hilltop in Coogee in 1917, his family knew he had every intention of bringing his work home with him.
Considering it was their own business, that’s not unreasonable, except of course, if your business is owning and running Wirth’s Circus, the largest circus in Australia, which in that case means keeping your trained animals, including elephants in the back yard.
While it was a veritable zoo behind those walls, children would often wait outside, listening for the moment in which the elephants were paraded down to the beach for a refreshing swim.
That zoo-land has since been subdivided, but the house remains along with the panoramic ocean view that brought the circus to this spot in the first place.
Mackenzie Mode – Coogee local and clothing designer
For fashion designer Emily MacKenzie, nothing is ever black and white. Literally.
There is nothing in her store or clothing line; Mackenize Mode that is even close to shades of grey either. This is a woman who loves the bold and the beautiful.
“The colour palate of Coogee inspires me,” explains Emily, “like the many shades of blue in the water or the bright green lawns.”
Emily and her mother make the vibrant fabric designs – whether it is from one of their own paintings, a photograph, or a digital image.
One of her favourite is an image taken of the green grass and white picket fence of her friend’s house.
The bright floral shades from their garden are also quite apparent.
While Mackenzie Mode has been a winner for racing fashionistas, a fan base that she readily admits was a large of her success, she’s keen to develop a more casual clothing line but in the meantime, she has started a line of swimsuits, which needless to say, was inspired by the Coogee Beach.
Shark Arm Case
It’s a story so farfetched that even a D-list filmmaker would have written it off as hogwash, but one fateful afternoon in 1935, in front of a small crowd at the Coogee Aquarium And Baths, the latest addition, a 3.5 metre tiger shark, spat out a human arm.
Seems that before the shark was caught and brought back for the public’s viewing pleasure, it had swallowed a smaller shark that had in turn swallowed the arm.
And if that isn’t preposterous enough, turns out there was a recognisable tattoo of two boxers on the arm, which led to the identification of Jim Smith, a bookmaker, boxer, and small-time criminal.
Upon learning that the lone appendage had been, well, forcibly removed rather than the result of a tragic accident, a murder investigation was conducted.
Then, like any predictable, albeit absurd crime fiction, there invariably is a link to organised crime and gangland retribution, except in this case, Horatio Caine wasn’t around with a witty one-liner.
Xtend Barres – Pilates meets dance studio
A toning workout followed by a swim at the beach and a glass of fresh juice may sound like a healthy holiday in Thailand but for local lass Chloe Dallimore and business partner Kirsty Cuttings, they’ve made it their business.
With backgrounds in dance, the pair built on their experience and now run a studio (Xtend Barre) which offers classes they describe as “pilates and dance amplified” in a natural environment – natural lighting, natural bamboo floors and natural fibres.
“I wanted a place that I would go to for a workout. Somewhere near the water and but also familiar,” Chloe says.
“I wanted our place to be a destination.”
The two insist that no ballet experience is required, and as the classes are on a casual basis there’s no need to practice a complicated (well, for some of us) routine.
And with the beach a mere block away, as Chloe would say after moving to Coogee more than 18 years ago: “Why would you leave?”
Coogee Bay Dress crochet pattern
When people come to Coogee, local will tell you that it stays with you and for some, emerges in art. Maybe a photograph of kids and sand castles, a song about young couples strolling the beach or, if say, you were 20 and this was your stomping ground, you’d probably find a way to capture that.
For Jenny King, a renowned crochet designer, those years are best expressed in a crochet pattern she created, aptly named, “Coogee Bay Dress”
“It is the sort of dress that would make a statement at the Coogee Bay Hotel by a gorgeous young creature I thought. Crochet dresses and the beach work well,” explains Jenny,” and since it was for an American publication that wanted a resort style name I gave it a truly Australian one and what better than Coogee Bay.”
Coogee Pier
When you learn that the secret ingredient of the decadent dessert in that adorable cafe just happens to be honey from their beehives out back, you wisely give up on recreating it at home and just enjoy the home.
Pity the builders of Coogee’s pier didn’t take heed that advice.
Built in1928, the ambitious project was to emulate the boardwalks of England’s coastal towns but with a bit more flare.
It stretched 180m out into the water, boasted a 1400-seat theatre, restaurants, shops, arcades and swimming nets; a truly magnificent destination that helped enhance Coogee’s position as a resort town.
While imitation is flattering, it’s not always feasible and unlike the calmer waters of Brighton, Coogee’s thrashing surf was unrelenting and the pier was demolished in 1934.
Wylie’s Baths
Procuring an Oompa Loompa for Veruca Salt was child’s play compared to what Henry Wylie did for his daughter, Wilhelmina (Mina), a gifted competitive swimmer.
While Mr. Salt was hunting down little blue men, Mr Wylie, a champion swimmer himself, was busy constructing a place where Mina and Fanny Durack, her friend and training partner could formally train.
It sounds decadent enough now, but considering that in 1907, a mixed-gender pool was virtually unheard of, this was a really bold move.
Mina and Fanny would go on to become Australia’s first female Olympic swimming representative, picking up their fair share of medals along the way.
But for those that don’t necessarily have Olympic aspirations, this would become a relatively peaceful tidal pool ideal for a regular swim, a bit of yoga and for those who still haven’t been able to shake the work week, a professional massage with that stunning ocean view.
Wedding Cake Island
For such a small, it sure makes a big impression.
Formally named Gingerbread Island, it’s now commonly known as Wedding Cake Island because of the white water splash from the rough surf breaking against the rocks - though there are other stories that say it’s because of the white seagull droppings.
Surfers stake claim to it on Anzac Day, ferrying beer, and such out via their boards while surf lifesaving cubs hold annual swimming competitions that cover the 800 meters out to island. Even Aussie band even Midnight Oil, whose band member Peter Garrett was once a Coogee boy, have a song named after it, “Wedding Cake Island.”
Besides having a social impact, it’s an integral part of the beach’s landscape.
The rocks act as a buffer breaking the surf before it reaches the beach and thrashes the sand.
And like any weary traveller in need of food and rest, whale migrations used take a bit of reprieve nearby for its calmer waters and plenty of kelp.
Little island, lasting impression.
History
Cresting the hills, looking at the glorious sea view, you’d think Coogee would have taken it’s name from something akin to magnificent, so you’ll probably be a bit disappointed to know that it’s actually more like “koojah”, an Aboriginal word for “smelly place” because of the drying seaweed.
First recognised in 1838, Coogee is the oldest seaside village, which by the late 1800s would become a quiet destination for people looking to escape the city.
Like many places in Sydney, the tramline, which arrived in 1883, followed by the electric tram in 1902, brought visitors, and residents alike. Coogee’s position as a resort town wavered a bit during the depression but with the gorgeous sands, blue waters and village atmosphere, Coogee remains a local favourite.
Fast Fact
McIver’s Baths, formerly constructed in 1886, is the last remaining women and children only baths in Australia.
Follow Jenifer Jagielski on Twitter @moxnixchick
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