Bureau of Meteorology forecasts massive swells off NSW coastline

Massive waves are barrelling in on the east coast today as wild weather brings in a gigantic swell.

Massive waves are barrelling in on the east coast today as wild weather brings in a gigantic swell.

A low-pressure system is rolling in on Sydney from the south and is expected to hang around until later tomorrow.

“A low-pressure system is coming over the Tasman Sea. It’s still a fair way off the NSW coast, but it’s driving strong southerly winds which have whipped up quite a few large waves,” Bureau of Meteorology senior forecaster Jake Phillips said.

“We’re seeing winds blowing on the coastal areas at about 40 to 50 kmh, and gusts of about 70 to 80 kmh in Kurnell.”

Sunrise at Bondi Beach before the huge swells rolled in. Picture: NCA NewsWire/Joel Carrett

Surfers out at Bronte Beach as the huge swells rolled in. Picture: NCA Newswire /Gaye Gerard

Waves as high as five metres are expected to roll in off Sydney.

“The one off the Sydney coast is a few kilometres away but is already recording about five metres, so that pretty significant,” Mr Philips said.

“The winds are coming from the south, so any bits of coast that are exposed to the south are best. Bondi Beach might be a good one, as it’s a bit more south than any others. Up in the north, Dee Why (could also be good).

“At Port Kembla, the waves are between three and four metres at the moment. They’ll continue through today and gradually go out later tomorrow. In the northern coast of NSW, we’ll still see some good waves around tomorrow, but the southerly winds will ease off by the evening.”

A severe weather warning is in place on the coast between Jervis Bay and Port Macquarie.

Some light rain is developing in the state’s Far West and will be moving across NSW later tomorrow into Friday.

It is expected to drop 5mms in most parts of the state, while the Southwest Slopes near Wagga Wagga, Tumut and the Snowy Mountains will receive around 50mms over the course of the next few days.

Temperatures are expected to drop to 6C in the CBD. Picture: Toby Zerna

Buildings remain closed in the city as Sydney enters its 4th week of lockdown due to the current Covid-19 outbreak. Picture: Toby Zerna

“A lot of the areas around the western slopes are fairly wet because they’ve had regular rain the last few weeks. Any rain that falls will most likely run off than absorb into the ground,” Mr Philips said.

“Tomorrow morning is going to be very cold, widespread frost across the inland in places up near the tablelands and around Bathurst, Orange and Armidale could get up to minus 4 or 5C.

“Sydney will remain around 6C, which is quite cool for the city. In the western suburbs it’ll be not too far off 0C. It’s a cold start, but we’re looking at temperatures between the mid to high teens for most places. In eastern parts of NSW there will be a fair bit of sunshine tomorrow.”

Showers are expected to clear after Friday morning to head into a warmer weekend with temperatures between 15 and 18C.

Sunshine is forecast to stick around into next week with temperatures reaching the 20C.