Swells over five metres and damaging winds forecast for Northern NSW coastline

BOM meteorologist warned swimmers, rock fishers and surfers that the heavy swells will still mean dangerous conditions on Sunday and into next week.

BOM advised that the combination of the damaging surf and abnormally high tides on the Friday and Saturday evening peak tides will be the time of greatest risk of coastal erosion and flooding of low lying areas.

Update 5pm: Damaging surf, with significant wave height in excess of five metres has been forecast for the weekend in coastal areas from the Byron coast and south along NSW shores, according to the latest warning from the Bureau of Meteorology (BOM).

The unusually high swells may lead to localised damage and coastal erosion from Friday evening and into Saturday before gradually easing on Sunday.

“South and southeast facing surf zones are at highest risk of being exposed to this surf condition,” the warning said.

“Although the wave height may ease below the warning threshold for damaging surf by the latter part of Sunday, beach conditions may still remain hazardous for coastal activities due to the continuation of the powerful long period south to south-easterly swell until early new week.”

Original story: Rockfishers, surfers and swimmers beware of damaging surf and abnormally high tides that will affect from the Byron coastline all the way into the NSW south coast this weekend.

BOM meteorologist Helen Kirkup said a deep low pressure system is forecast to intensify over the Tasman Sea on Friday night and Saturday, generating vigorous southerly winds over the coastal waters and very heavy surf along the New South Wales coast.

This will coincide with abnormally high tides along the coast during this evening and Saturday evening. These conditions should gradually ease on Sunday as the low weakens and moves away further east.

“We are going to see a big heavy southerly swell moving up the coast, and this will arrive closer to Ballina and Byron on Friday night,” she said

“Places that are exposed to southerly swells will see four-metre swells as average wave heights.

“Since it’s expected to also be quite windy, we are looking in some areas at four to five Metre swells.

‘This will continue on Saturday and on Sunday it will be come a bit more south easterly. The heavy swells will still mean dangerous beach conditions, and into early next week.

“Beach conditions in these areas could be really dangerous and people should stay well away from the surf and exposed areas,” the BOM expert said.

Sporadic showers are possible in coastal areas at night, with strong winds at 20 to 30 knots offshore (40km/h) with gusty winds and low temperatures.

Abnormally high tides which may cause sea water flooding of low lying areas are also possible along the New South Wales coast.

The combination of the damaging surf and abnormally high tides on the Friday and Saturday evening peak tides will be the time of greatest risk of coastal erosion and flooding of low lying areas.

Locations which may be affected include Ballina, Yamba, Coffs Harbour, Port Macquarie, Old Bar, Newcastle, Sydney, and Wollongong.

The State Emergency Service advised residents:

• Don't drive, ride or walk through flood water.
• Stay vigilant and monitor conditions. Note that the landscape may have changed following bushfires.
• For emergency help in floods and storms, ring your local SES Unit on 132 500.

For details visit the Bureau‘s website at www.bom.gov.au or call 1300 659 210.