Good Food Guide: Melting Pot
In the new edition of The Advertiser Food Guide, our team reviews more than 150 restaurants, with many appearing for the first time. Here are some of our favourites, with categories to suit all tastes and budgets.
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In the new edition of The Advertiser Food Guide, our team reviews more than 150 restaurants, with many appearing for the first time. Here are some of our favourites, with categories to suit all tastes and budgets.
Addis Ababa Cafe
The delicious aromas of African food make a great first impression at this suburban gem. Once inside, the dining room feels cosy and inviting with twinkling fairy lights strewn across bamboo-covered walls and colourful wall art. The real clincher here is the traditional Ethiopian food with spicy stews generous in portion and flavour. Smiling host and owner Zed Wondimu encourages guests to wash their hands in preparation for dining, Ethiopian style, without cutlery. Who needs a knife and fork when you have rolled-up injera, a soft, spongy, slightly sour bread ideal for mopping up the various meat and vegetable dishes. It’s hard to go past ‘Tibs’ with its cubes of lean beef and lamb ribs seasoned with onion, capsicum, kibe (clarified butter) and sprinkled with mitmita spice. For a more spicy fix, try the Doro Wett chicken in a stew of onions, berbere and kibe with hard boiled eggs and a homemade cheese.
462 Port Road, West Hindmarsh
8241 5185
- Open D 5pm-late Thu-Tue
- Bill $14-21
- Chef Yenensh Gbere Owner Zed and Melanie Wondimu and Yenensh Gbere
- Wine BYO only Corkage $5/bottle
Cinnamon Club
Take a detour from Norwood’s main drag and discover this terrific Indian newcomer run by enthusiastic chef/host Harsh Kumar. The cosy dining space has a casual vibe with a brightly coloured mural along one wall and a takeaway section at the front. A small kitchen reveals a busy brigade of chefs cooking up an aromatic storm. The extensive menu is a virtual tour of Indian regions and covers street foods, uttapam pancakes, thali platters, tandoori and vegetarian dishes, as well as good-value banquets. Don’t leave without trying the dosa, fermented pancakes made from rice batter and lentils, stuffed with paneer cheese and served with tomato and coconut chutneys. The curries show a deft spice touch and have bright, fresh flavours. Be sure to explore the tandoor breads, particularly the roomali roti or “handkerchief bread”. Chocolate samosas for dessert will rock your world.
2/1 MARGARET ST, NORWOOD
8431 3311
- OPEN D 7pm-late Mon-Sun
- BILL E $8-$18 M $19-$32 D $8-$14
- OWNERS/CHEFS Chef/Owner Harsh Kumar
- WINE Corkage $15/bottle By the glass 22 @ $8.50-$10 Bottles $25-$110
From Orient
Only a couple of city blocks from the clatter of Chinatown, the serenity and style of From Orient couldn’t be more of a contrast. Settle in at one of the white-clothed tables, each illuminated by a single, moody beam. The refined approach continues in the cooking, that starts with the Szechuan markers of chilli and pepper, then spreads across other Chinese regions and further afield. Plating is contemporary; flavours always in control – even the signature Shui Zhu fish, poached in oil loaded with chillies and pepper, provides a well-mannered buzz that belies its ferocious appearance. Scallops on the shell are elevated by a black bean sauce, while steamed chicken with sesame and cold noodles is as much about texture as flavour. Finish with the caramel crepes that offer more excitement than a coconut parfait sandwich. The wine list goes above and beyond expectations.
125-127 PIRIE ST, CITY
8232 4020
- OPEN L 11.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri D 5.30pm-10.30pm Mon-Sun
- BILL E $4.80-$14.80 M $15-$68 D $8-$14
- OWNERS/CHEFS Chef: Li Peng | Owners: Jenny Lu, Ian Veng
- WINE Corkage $15/bottle By the glass 25 @ $6-$13 Bottles $25-$140
Giwa
There’s a chill in the air on the night we visit this Hyde Park gem but the welcome is warm and an attentive waiter wastes no time offering us a seat in the warmest corner and even a blanket. The first dishes take almost an hour (a problem with kitchen equipment, we’re told) but when the Korean fried chicken and Kimchi Mandoo (dumplings) do arrive all is forgiven. The food is fabulous. Fresh, honest Korean dishes burst with flavour and are free of pretension. Ssam – leafy greens wrapped around rice and a choice of meat, tofu and vegetables – is a delightfully messy experience. Bbol Jjim goes down as our dish of the chilly season; slowly braised beef cheek in sweet soy sauce is served in a hot stone bowl piled with garlic potatoes, enoki mushrooms, dates, pecans and pine nuts. Cold, what cold? Next time we’ll opt for the degustation menu – there’s more magic to be had within these walls.
113-115 KING WILLIAM RD, HYDE PARK
8373 3114
- OPEN L 11.30am-2pm Wed-Fri D 6pm-10pm Mon-Sun
- BILL E $3-$16.90 M $16.90-$32.90 D $3.50-$16
- OWNERS/CHEFS Chef/Owner: Lleyton Yoon
- WINE Corkage $15/bottle By the glass 23 @ $8-$13 Bottles $36-$56
Golden Boy
Positioning itself as a Thai culinary destination and also a late night haunt to get a spicy bite, the Golden Boy menu is bursting with fresh flavours and dynamic pairings. The uninitiated can opt for the Tuk Tuk menu whereby the kitchen showcases its best – designed for sharing – for $48 a head (or $58 with dessert). But those willing to do the ordering would do well to look out for the kingfish sashimi, an exercise in culinary restraint and zippy fresh flavours. Pork belly paired with a barramundi salad is inspired while the appropriately named crying tiger wagyu beef packs plenty of punch. The staff are attentive and accommodating, at the ready with excellent wine recommendations and willing to tweak orders – even the Tuk Tuk– to allow for food allergies. Desserts, if you have room, also pay homage to the Thai flavours featuring banana fritters, pandan leaves, fresh fruits and coconut.
309 NORTH TCE, CITY
8227 0799
- OPEN L noon-3pm Fri D 6pm-11pm Tue-Sat
- BILL E $12-$14 M $14-$28 D $12
- OWNERS/CHEFS Chef: Miles Davies | Owners: James Hillier, Sondra Deering
- WINE Corkage $15/bottle By the glass 18 @ $10-$19 Bottles $45-$100
Ichitaro
Taut ropes are stretched into an eye-catching pattern up the walls and across the ceiling, tables are blonde timber and chairs and banquettes upholstered in black. The stylish décor sets the scene for more of the same on the plates. Right on trend is the sharing menu, with plenty of local ingredients. Fish, including SA snapper and kingfish, dominate, but there are plenty of alternatives, such as the deeply flavoured, meltingly tender Angus beef tenderloin with a zingy salad, and slices of perfectly pink duck breast with yuzu reduction, delicious yuzu pepper, and crunchy veg. The crispy fried flounder is pretty and so moreish, swept through light soy refreshed with spring onions and ginger, as is the kingfish carpaccio (special) doused in three tangy sauces. Desserts are limited to two refreshers, a simple yuzu sorbet, or the cocktail glass flourish of green tea ice cream with a sweet red bean cap.
3/160 KING WILLIAM RD, HYDE PARK
8272 8921
- OPEN L noon - 2.30pm Thu-Sat D 6pm-11pm Mon-Sat
- BILL E $5-$19 (incl sushi) M $25-$34 D $12-$15
- OWNERS/CHEFS Chef: Nobuki Hayashi | Owner: Kyoichi Ueno
- WINE Corkage $17/bottle By the glass 9 @ $12-$14 Bottles $35-$250
Kaffana
Kaffana owners Peter and Nick Vujic love their mum’s cooking so much that they have her helping in the kitchen. One taste of her cabbage rolls and you’ll know why. Two of the finger-length rolls, filled with a mix of beef and pork mince, are served in a little cast iron pot. The dish is homely and deeply satisfying, typical of the style of eating at this Serbian restaurant that blends long-held tradition with a more contemporary setting and service style in Peel St. Grilled quail can’t be faulted, the skin dark and glossy, breast and leg meat both succulent. The mixed grill includes a skewer of tender pork scotch, cevapcici and a pattie of beef and pork mince that shows you don’t need all the adornments to have a good-tasting burger. Choose from a short wine list or live on the wild side with a range of 15 slivovitz (plum brandy) bottles.
23 PEEL ST, CITY
8231 7682
- OPEN L noon-3pm Tue-Thu, noon-4pm Fri D 6pm-late Tue-Thu 4pm-late Fri-Sun
- BILL E $7-$11 M $24-$36 D $7
- OWNERS/CHEFS Chef: Nick Vujic | Owners: Peter and Nick Vujic
- WINE No BYO By the glass 10 @ $8.50-$10 Bottles $45-$160
Little NNQ
This next-gen offshoot of suburban favourite Nghi Ngan Quan is run by a mum-and-daughter combo who have played with the family formula a little in the switch to a city address. While the menu is shorter and toned back, there is no compromise where it counts. The house-made sauces and relishes are still dynamite, from the chilli sauce with cracking ha noi spring rolls to a pungent concoction of fermented fish. The quality doesn’t falter in the larger dishes. A salad of duck meat and shredded banana blossom is turbocharged by the freshness of rau ram leaves and another stellar dressing. Grilled king prawns with chilli, lemongrass and the smokiness of their lightly charred shells are so very good. At lunch, there is an additional menu of $11-$13 salads and soups, including five-spice duck legs and mushrooms in a dark, meaty broth that would be ravishing if it was a little less sweet.
125 GOUGER ST, CITY
8211 8558
- OPEN L/D 11.30am-10pm Wed-Mon
- BILL E $4-$16 M $10-$25 D $5-$9
- OWNERS/CHEFS Chef: Huong Ngo | Owners: Jennifer Luong, Huong Ngo
- WINE Corkage $12/bottle By the glass 17 @ $6.50-$13 Bottles $29-$125
Parwana
The much-loved Parwana burst onto the scene in 2009 bringing authentic Afghan food to the suburbs and it has become a fixture on any list of Adelaide’s best and most interesting restaurants. Everything is cooked with love and care at this modest but charming eatery run by the Ayubi family. The concise menu centres on traditional dishes which are aromatic, intensely-flavoured, colourful and affordable. The eggplant, simmered in a tomato sauce and topped with garlic yoghurt and fresh mint, has legendary status. Kabul-style aged long grain rice is jazzed up with caramelised carrots, sultanas, slivered almonds and pistachio while spicy, tender grilled lamb is a winner teamed with crispy salad, moreish chutney and Afghan naan flatbread. Don’t forget to take cash as it doesn’t accept credit cards. The family has now opened a baby brother diner called Kutchi Deli Parwana serving Afghan street food in Vardon Ave in the city’s East End.
124B HENLEY BEACH RD, TORRENSVILLE
8443 9001
- OPEN D 6pm-10pm Tue-Sun
- BILL E $9-$12 M $14-$25 D $8-$12
- OWNERS/CHEFS Chef: Farida Ayubi | Owner: Sayed Ashna
- WINE Corkage $10/bottle
Ruby Red Flamingo
This 140-year-old former Baptist church manse has been born again as the brightest, bubbliest Italian restaurant in town. The eclectic décor, with lots of vintage and retro influences, creates a relaxed, homely but hip look. A good soundtrack, edgy wall art and an energetic, well-informed staff add to the vibe. The ever-changing menus are scribbled on the wall. Sharing is the best idea and the dishes are available in two sizes which makes it easy for everyone to have a taste. Papardelle pasta comes with a deliciously rustic rabbit ragu and old-school pork and fennel sausages are perfect with juicy, sweet tomatoes, capsicum and eggplant. Two glorious molten chocolate tortino puddings for dessert are an oozy, fitting finale. The wine list is short and sweet with lots of Italian beauties. Don’t forget the no-bookings policy for groups under 10 people. An upstairs bar can help ease the pain of waiting for a table.
142 TYNTE ST, NORTH ADELAIDE
8267 5769
- OPEN L noon-2.30pm Wed-Fri D 5.30pm-9.30pm Wed-Sun
- BILL E $10-$15 M $20-$29.50 D $9
- OWNERS/CHEFS Chef: Enzo Verdino | Owners: Enzo Verdino, Vic Ventura, Lauro Siliquini
- WINE Corkage $12/bottle By the glass 13 @ $7-$13 Bottles $27-$82
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