Sydney Eat Street: 10 places to try in Summer Hill
IT IS the friendly faces and diverse menus of this inner-west suburb’s cafes and boutique bars that really makes it shine.
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THE friendly faces and diverse menus in Summer Hill make the cafes and boutique bars in this inner west suburb really shine.
Take a tour of the area’s best eateries right here with The Sunday Telegraph’s Eat Street.
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GLACÉ ICE CREAM AND SORBET
HAPPENSTANCE and constant evolution are behind Glacé Ice Cream’s transformation from a home hobby to worldwide recognition, explains Marilyn Lean, Glacé’s managing director, beginning with the random gift of an ice-cream churner in the early 80s, which she “immediately shoved in the cupboard”.
On a whim, she pulled it out, “followed the instructions in the box” and made raspberry ice-cream for a dinner party.
Inspired, she took formal classes, learning the French way to make ice cream – a custard base with eggs, milk and sugar – and eventually opening a shop in 1984. As fate would have it, Vic Cherikoff, an early advocate for Australian native foods, walked in with a paper bag filled with Australian wattle seed, asking, “Could you make this into an ice cream?”
Since then, she’s been formulating bespoke flavours for some of Sydney’s top chefs. She’s even made citrus sorbet for one of Prince Charles and Lady Diana’s formal dinners in Sydney.
While her rich and creamy ice cream makes appearances on some of the best restaurants in town, she also makes wedding cakes, and ice cream petit fours, which can be ordered online for pick-up or purchased on-site, at her Summer Hill factory.
- 39 Smith St
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ONE PENNY RED
A FORMER post office, this sleek and spacious restaurant with its modern Australian cuisine has made its mark as an inner-west dining destination.
Much of it is owed to its all around creativity, starting with the name One Penny Red, an early Australian stamp.
Even the logo features the red “cancellation” stripes, notes co-owner Nina Alidenes. This originality is particularly evident in the kitchen, with impressive dishes from respected chef/co-owner RJ Lines.
While the menu is designed to be shared, you may find yourself hoarding the delicious grass-fed beef tartare prepared with finger limes and Jerusalem artichoke.
Save space for the whole rainbow trout, an absolute vision with the bright greens of broad beans and zucchini flowers. Your long lunch just might linger over into dinner.
- 2 Moonbie St
THE RIO MILK BAR
MERGING nostalgia with a modern menu is a tall order so when co-owners Tess Robens and Mick Rigney looked to turn The Rio Milk Bar into a small bar, they made it personal.
Rather than a straight reno, they designed a place that would capture the essence of the former owner George Poulos, who had been serving locals for over 63 years, including Tess, who recalled coming in for milkshakes as a child.
The milkshakes are still there but they’ve been spiced up with a bit of Rum, amaretto, maple and Summer Hill’s own, Glacé ice cream. Channelling George’s Greek heritage, they developed a Mediterranean influenced grazing menu including bites such as spanakopita, baked prawns and fetta and a refreshing watermelon, fetta and mint salad, perfect when paired with the Watermelon Boss cocktail.
It’s all perfectly set in a spot with rugged, white-washed walls blended with ocean hues with a queue of cheeky turquoise fish that lead to the upstairs bar, lounging areas and courtyard.
- 126 Smith St
ENVY DELI CAFÉ
A PEEK in the door and you’ll be tempted by two shelves lined with cakes, then take a look around the corner and admire the majestic jacaranda tree that shades the back courtyard.
Surprisingly tranquil, given its street corner location, it’s an ideal spot for a leisurely weekend breakfast or a generous slice of carrot cake and a good book.
On any given day, there are more than 10 different varieties of house-made baked goods.
Co-owner Peter Oag notes they still use his mother’s original recipes.
Sweets aren’t the only treats here as the breakfast bowl with poached pear and good cup of coffee make for a great start. After that, you can finally get that slice of orange cake that’s been calling your name.
- 109 Smith St
THE TEMPERANCE SOCIETY
THIS two-level bar with its rear courtyard and a sort of Victorian-meets-industrial-chic decor shows what a bit of ingenuity, remnant materials and 70 like-minded volunteers will do to get a drink.
For Alex Fenshaw, it’s all about keeping it local – giving the community a place to grab a casual drink after work as well as supporting Greater Sydney suppliers.
“Local products in Australia are treated as if they’re exotic,” says Alex, noting that the majority of beers on tap, including Young Henry’s and Batch are made within 5km of the bar while the cheeses, meats, and vegetables on the charcuterie plate are also mainly from NSW.
It also goes for the cocktails where every one includes at least one local ingredient such as Rosebery’s favourite child Archie Rose gin or something even closer, lemon myrtle from his neighbour’s garden.
- 122 Smith St
MUST TRY
WEDNESDAY MUSSELS MADNESS
SHARING a kitchen with its sister restaurants, One Penny Red, means this upstairs parlour bar with an airy outdoor patio plus an indoor space with forest green walls and leather bench seating, can offer a more varied menu than mere finger foods such as the seasonal Wednesday Mussel Madness.
Cooked in “Crazy Water”, a seasoned broth, these Spring Bay mussels are the perfect accompaniment to the bar’s signature Smoked Old Fashion or crisp whit wine.
- Vernon’s Bar, 2A Moonbie St
CHEESE ROOM
AFTER an extensive renovation, this grocery store has been elevated to provide a more European food-hall look and feel.
Particularly impressive is their cheese selection with more than 100 varieties, around 40 of which are kept in the refrigerated cheese room. Inside you’ll find massive wheels of Parmesan, Sutton Grange’s Holy Goat organic cheese as well as Ruffled Feathers & Co patés.
- Romeo’s SUPA IGA, 5/11 Hardie Ave
AVOCADO ON TOAST
HUMBLE dishes get impressive makeovers in this sun-drenched cafe.
Try the seared-salmon, which has been smoked in freshly plucked lemon myrtle or sourdough toast with greens and two regal spirals of fresh avocado.
- Goodbye Horses, 116 Smith St
HOUSE-CURED SALMON
WITH dishes that are as pretty as they are tasty, you’ll surely take pause, and probably a picture before gobbling it up.
Along with a great cup of Little Marionette coffee, Chef Rajan Lamsal’s delicious and colourful dishes, such as the vibrant orange house-cured salmon with the rich green hues of asparagus and kale, are perfecting for starting your day off on a bright note.
- Goblin Cafe, 6 Sloane St
SPAGHETTI & MEATBALLS
NO NEED to head to Nonna’s when you can get your share of comfort food at this elegant yet casual restaurant.
Grab a seat outside and watch world go by as you indulge in classic spaghetti and meatballs. Save room for dessert. Nonna would insist on trying the tiramisu.
- Andiamo Trattoria, 29-31 Lackey St