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Angove’s organic wines paying off with Wild Olive Shiraz

Angove has long invested in the organic management of its McLaren Vale vineyards and the improvement in quality is evident in its affordable Wild Olive shiraz – one of four wines John Fordham recommends this week.

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A family brand with a rich and elegant organic shiraz, a cabernet sauvignon born from the foothills of Mount Canobolas in NSW, a beautiful riesling from the Clare Valley’s Skilly Ridge and a world-class chardonnay that scooped the pool at the 2018 Perth Royal Wine Show. Here are the best four wines to try this week:

2017 Angove Wild Olive Shiraz – $19

This famous family brand has long invested in the organic management of its McLaren Vale vineyards and winemaker Tony Ingle is the first to acknowledge the improvement it has brought to the label’s quality and its spike in popularity. This is an absolute bargain, oozing rich, elegant concentrated flavours.

2017 Angove Wild Olive Shiraz
2017 Angove Wild Olive Shiraz

2016 Angullong Cabernet Sauvignon – $22

As the vines on this Orange vineyard at the foothills of Mount Canobolas have gradually matured, so has the variety’s growing stature in this booming cool-climate region. A most enjoyable wine of excellent structure and balance, it shows winemaker Ben Crossing’s deft hand at delivering flavours that invite immediate drinking.

2016 Angullong Cabernet Sauvignon
2016 Angullong Cabernet Sauvignon

2018 Tim Adams Skilly Ridge Riesling – $30

So passionate is he at trumpeting riesling’s credentials, this top-notch Clare Valley vigneron never misses an opportunity to bolster his vineyard holdings. Five years ago, he purchased the prime Skilly Ridge vineyard, being so impressed with its potential. This beaut wine shows his judgment was again absolutely spot on.

2018 Tim Adams Skilly Ridge Riesling
2018 Tim Adams Skilly Ridge Riesling

2018 Swings & Roundabouts Backyard Stories Chardonnay – $50

If you’re drawn to world-class chardonnay, this is the wine for you. From Margaret River, this multi-award winner scooped the pool at the 2018 Perth Royal Wine Show, including major gong for best chardonnay. Considering the hot field involved, that’s a great result for highly-acclaimed winemaker Brian Fletcher.

2018 Swings & Roundabouts Backyard Stories Chardonnay
2018 Swings & Roundabouts Backyard Stories Chardonnay

FROM THE OCTOBER 27 CELLAR:

2016 Heartland Spice Trader Shiraz Cabernet – $17

The winemaker behind this super bargain red featuring the nation’s foundation blend, Ben Glaetzer, is a member of South Australia wine aristocracy. The deep knowledge he’s collected from his clan regarding the Langhorne Creek region is mirrored in this excellent expression of fruit flavours highlighted by a generous spicy finish.

2016 Heartland Spice Trader Shiraz Cabernet
2016 Heartland Spice Trader Shiraz Cabernet

2019 Crafters Union x Ginger & Smart Sauvignon Blanc – $20

The glamorous look of this eye-catching Marlborough release comes from leading Aussie fashion label Ginger & Smart, with the contents right up there with what’d you expect from the region’s plethora of acclaimed sauvignon blancs. Its mind-blowing tropical aromas perfectly complement its wealth of lively passionfruit/gooseberry flavours.

2019 Crafters Union x Ginger & Smart Sauvignon Blanc
2019 Crafters Union x Ginger & Smart Sauvignon Blanc
Ginger and Smart designers Alexandra and Genevieve Smart. Picture: Lisa Maree Williams
Ginger and Smart designers Alexandra and Genevieve Smart. Picture: Lisa Maree Williams

2017 West Cape Howe Tempranillo – $22

Longstanding owner-winemaker Gavin Berry has consistently won favour with his easy-drinking reds from WA’s Frankland River region and the addition of this emerging grape of Spanish origin to the line-up has been a masterstroke. Well rounded savoury flavours and its impressive length invite early drinking pleasure.

2017 West Cape Howe Tempranillo
2017 West Cape Howe Tempranillo

2017 Tarrawarra Estate Chardonnay – $28

For long one of the Yarra Valley’s signature chardonnays, the style continues to be tweaked by winemaker Clare Halloran to ensure its continued rousing mouthfeel, freshness and subtle marriage of oak. Very much a fruit-driven explosion of chardonnay’s finest attributes, all moulded with great balance and care.

2017 Tarrawarra Estate Chardonnay.
2017 Tarrawarra Estate Chardonnay.

FROM THE OCTOBER 20 CELLAR:

2018 Castle Rock Skywalk Riesling — $20

WA’s Great Southern, especially in its Porongurup sub-region, is making great headways with riesling, and with gun winemaker Rob Diletti calling the shots the variety’s future looks even brighter. Inviting intense, rich flavours drift across the palate spectrum, paving the way for a long and truly satisfying finish.

Castle Rock Skywalk Riesling
Castle Rock Skywalk Riesling

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2017 McWilliams McW 660 Reserve Tumbarumba Chardonnay — $25

Tumbarumba has been providing fruit for some of Australia’s greatest chardonnays for more than three decades, its cool climate and high altitude delivering an exceptional enhancement to the variety’s awesome reputation. This is a delicious example revealing the perfect balance between its citrus nuances and subtle oak.

McWilliams McW Tumbarumba Chardonnay
McWilliams McW Tumbarumba Chardonnay

2016 Skillogalee The Cabernets — $34

A heavily weighted cabernet sauvignon blend, with smidgens of cabernet franc and malbec filling in the gaps, has produced striking Clare Valley flavours brought to a peak by winemaker Dave Palmer. In the medium-bodied mould, its rich, generous flavours beckon immediate drinking while its staying power can be absolutely assured.

Skillogalee The Cabernets
Skillogalee The Cabernets

2016 Nautilus Southern Valleys pinot noir — $44

Excellent structure and balance are this wine’s standout features with the flavour composition of beautifully crafted Marlborough pinot noir reaching the very highest points of satisfaction. The absorbing amalgam of cherry, blackberry and spicy flavours define the region’s status as a revered pinot noir domain.

Nautilus Southern Valleys Pinot Noir
Nautilus Southern Valleys Pinot Noir

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John Fordham with his grandson Freddy
John Fordham with his grandson Freddy

John Fordham is a long-time wine columnist for The Sunday Telegraph. Contact him here: john@thefordhamcompany.com.au

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Original URL: https://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/lifestyle/food/sydney-taste/john-fordhams-four-best-wines-of-the-week/news-story/2126db13d5f9337a8136a023887305d8