Food review: The Unicorn in Paddington offers classic Aussie pub grub, which is big on taste
THE latest addition to Paddington eateries adds much more than just good tucker. The Unicorn brings with it a whole heap of diversity and a cool factor that Oxford St has been craving, Emma Freedman writes.
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THE UNICORN - 9 out of 10
106 Oxford St, Paddington
Instagram: @Unicorn_hotel
Style: Aussie pub. No frills.
Open: Monday to Saturday 11am-3am, Sunday 11am-12am
Highlight: My burger, the pool table and the vibes.
Lowlight: Mixed Grill (I’m not a diehard carnivore)
Like this, then try these
● Mary’s Newtown
● The Paddington Inn, Paddington
PADDINGTON is full of fantastic pubs. You know the ones — with wall-to-wall sport, Trivia on a Tuesday, or Toss the Boss on a Sunday, and with an epic lamb shank in the menu.
But this latest addition adds much more than just good tucker and considered interiors. It brings with it a whole heap of diversity and a cool factor that Oxford St has been craving.
Welcome to the hood, the new and improved Unicorn.
The Unicorn fills the void left by the old Unicorn and Fringe Bar, that shut in 2015.
A brilliant space of two levels and a courtyard that left uninhabited would have been a crime.
With its shiny new reno and mini injection of grunge to an area that is typically pretty and preppy, it’s my new local.
I love that it brings in the tattooed, bearded dudes who probably call Newtown home, the suits stopping off for a cold one on their way to Woollahra, along with the beach bums and their flat brims seeking fuel after a big day in the surf. The crowd is like a mixed bag of nuts.
When building The Unicorn, figuratively and literally, the team, led by Jake Smyth and Kenny Graham of Mary’s fame, along with Oscar McMahon (Young Henrys) and Elvis Abrahanowicz (Porteno), have really thought about things.
But in the most simplistic and enticing way possible.
All of these lads are fans of the traditional Aussie pub from bygone eras, and were keen to create their own version in the east.
Every piece of the decor and furniture has been sourced locally, from the Blue Mountains to Singleton to Gunnedah, not only to support local business but to also create an authentic atmosphere.
You walk in and there’s no mistaking that this is an Aussie pub. A good looking, well maintained one at that. As is typical of this crack team, don’t expect flounce or fancy.
It’s quality and a great feel that make me feel welcome every time I walk in.
The tunes are rock skewed. I squealed with delight when I heard the Delta Riggs play loud and proud one night, while patrons threw darts and played heated rounds of pool.
Downstairs you’ll even find an area with various instruments. Who knows what surprise performances may be made legendary here in the future?
Beverages are a pub’s bread and butter, and the Unicorn has some of the best.
A meticulously created all-Australian wine list features plonk from the highly rated Ochota Barrels and Shobbrook.
The cocktail list is headlined with your faves, from a classic Negroni (that has a real kick) to the drink of summer, a refreshing, bitey Aperol Spritz. And beer for days. It’s cold. Icy cold, as Aussies have loved since the start of time. The bar staff are top value too.
But the food is where The Unicorn shines.
For me, I love a burger, and the Mary’s edition is a classic.
The boys will hate me for saying how much I love it, but it is a genuine highlight on the menu.
As is fancy steak with a multitude of sides, and the chicken schnitzel. And the crinkle cut chips. Yum.
You know what you’re getting from a group like this. Delicious, mouth watering, classic Aussie pub grub.
Simple on presentation, big on taste and Mmmmmm! factor.
Sit in the light and bright courtyard on a warm day with a pint, or hustle on in on a Friday night for a counter meal, big chat with the bar staff and a drink, or many.
The Unicorn really does welcome one and all.
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