Eat Street: Haberfield’s delights await the early riser

THE secret to Haberfield is that it’s a morning town. Go before noon or miss out on the fresh bread, pick of the pastries and top-shelf produce.

• See the top five sweets in Haberfield

SAN VALENTINO: PASTICCERIA, FOCACCERIA, PANIFICIO

A Saturday morning trip to the market is usually a good place to pick up the week’s fruit and veg, but for John Colacicco, he came home with a few bakers and a pastry chef.

Pursuing a life-long dream of opening a patisserie with traditional cakes, breads and focaccia, John travelled to his home town of Puglia in southern Italy to find just the right people and the special recipes that would become San Valentino’s signature. But John is not satisfied just serving up the Italian staples or replacing store bought biscuits, he’s set on making sure every treat is truly a pleasure to savour rather that just a tradition to eat; like pannetone, a sweet bread with fruit and domed top, that is typically served around Christmas and New Year.

To prepare a true version of pannetone takes about three days, John says.

119 Ramsay Street

John Colacicco and pastry chef Claudio Ponzio in the kitchen at San Valentino.

Unravel the mysteries of zucchini flowers at Frank’s Fruit Market.

FRANK’S FRUIT MARKET

A MUST in so many Italian dishes is the humble tomato, but at Frank’s Fruit Market, the tough choice is going to be which kind. In summer, Frank Bonfante carries 16 varieties; luckily both he and his wife, Mary, are generous with the knowledge they’ve accrued after 41 years in the fruit and veg business. They’ll make sure you get what you’re after and know how to cook it.

Apart from tomatoes, there is so much more produce that defines the Italian kitchen, such as the zucchini flower. Mary explains how people can be intimidated by it but said they love giving advice on how to experiment with it.

94A Ramsay Street

 

 

Single Rosetta meals contain “next door” ingredients.

SINGLE ROSETTA

WHEN a restaurateur is after the freshest ingredients, nothing beats shopping local but in Haberfield, it’s more like shopping next door. At Single Rosetta, Cameron Elder, a chef with years of experience at hatted restaurants around the world, is no exception. Naturally he’ll only use the best ingredients but insists that the meat and produce he gets from neighbouring businesses is his top choice, noting the heirloom tomatoes from “Frank” (of Frank’s Fruit Market) and meats from “Angelo” (of Zanetti 5 Star Delicatessen).

With a little patio outside, it’s a perfect place to enjoy Cameron’s basil aioli bruschetta, and café co-owner Krystyna Hulewicz’s smooth and artfully presented coffees.

68 Dalhousie Street

 

Killer coffee at Garnish Cafe.

GARNISH FINE FOODS CAFE

YOU can start your day with a cup of coffee or you can really give it a kick with the Killer Coffee at Garnish Cafe. Co-owner Matt Piazzolla began carrying the boutique brand of beans after spotting it at the Aroma Festival in The Rocks and it’s fast become a favourite. Local shop assistant Jane is a fan, referring to this intense yet smooth blend as her morning “Killer Shot”.
58 Dalhousie St

 

Fresh off the grill at Meshwi.

MESHWI: LEBANESE CHARCOAL BBQ

WHEN it comes to a family venture, you’re never too old to need mum’s permission, so when Nick Lakkis approached his brother Michael about opening a restaurant, the first thing Michael asked was, “What did Mum say?”

Nearly a year on, Meshwi (Arabic for barbecue) is going strong and matriarch Nora Lakkis can be found most mornings making the dips and performing overall “quality control”. On Wednesdays, her four sisters join her, forming an assembly line making samboosik (Lebanese samosas) and kibbeh (balls of lamb mince with onions and Nora’s secret spices).
104 Ramsay Street