Eat Street Camden: Charge in for great food, great bars and heroic tales of the Light Horseman
JUST a short drive south of Sydney, Camden has an eclectic array of eateries, bars and food outlets. Tour the vibrant suburb with The Sunday Telegraph’s Eat Street.
JUST a short drive south of Sydney, Camden has an eclectic array of eateries, bars and food outlets.
Tour the vibrant suburb with Eat Street:
upstairs@fred’s
If ever there were a place for tales to be told, upstairs@fred’s would surely be it and judging by the red velvet sofas, lemon yellow lounges and unusual objet d’art those tales would be fascinating. This quirky and eclectic style fits witty and effervescent co-owner Steve Wisbey OAM, perfectly, as he too has had a variety of occupations throughout his career, including radio host and philanthropist.
Steve essentially grew up in the kitchen, as his grandfather and father were chefs, however they discouraged him from pursuing a career in the hospitality industry as it required long hours away from family. Yet, he admits that despite it all, owning a restaurant has always been on his bucket list. It also aligns with a saying his great grandfather and the bar’s namesake, Light Horseman Frederick Cave Wisbey said to him, “You have to make something out of nothing son” and that he did. Along with co-owners Mandy Avinou, Katie Palmer they brought upstairs@fred’s to life doing everything from demolition to decor all on their own to make it a place they wanted to escape to. Where they could sit on the 2nd floor veranda, sip fine wines, fun bubbles and craft beers while indulging in delicious share plates of pan seared scallops BBQ ribs and space permitting, Chef Viveiros’ Portuguese custard tarts.
Meanwhile, if you ask nicely Steve might make an appearance in his Light Horseman’s uniform and regale you with stories of a young Fred Wisbey’s adventures in Cairo. — 100 Argyle St
Burger Frank
Ask Michael and Brittney Sebalj, owners of Burger Frank, what’s in their food and they promise to be completely honest with you. So much so that they’ve put it in writing and incorporated it into their business name — Frank is a synonym for honest. “Customers want to known exactly what they’re eating and exactly where the ingredient have come from,” says Michael.
He tries to source everything locally including lettuce from the weekend farmer’s market and a blend of meat that he and a butcher from the Southern Highlands worked together to develop. Even the bacon they use is farm fresh. “If we run out, we have to wait till the farmer can bring more” say Michael. “We won’t go to the grocery store to restock”
Admittedly, it’s hard work and long hours, but the whole family gets involved, in making the delicious burgers, chips and milkshakes, including Brittney’s year old grandmother who is in back hand-cutting the potatoes for what will become addictive cheese, pesto and salt fries. Truth.
— 7/180-186 Argyle St
Epicure Store Camden
This small, specialty food and cheese boutique could be considered quaint but for the vast amount of knowledge that owners Debbie and Renee Sillato have about each product. Standing amid displays that rival the precision of David Jones’ Food Hall, Renee animatedly talks about the various products including the dark chocolate from Mudgee and the chutneys from Camden. But it’s the cheeses that brings out the story teller in her, like the process required to make Epoisse, a soft cheese that gets its burgundy coloured rind from being repeatedly washed over four weeks with red wine. This process dates back to the 17th century when monks were looking for practical uses for their surplus wines.
Renee’s knowledge of cheese isn’t limited to their legend and lore, rather Epicure’s forte is its enviable selection. With a sly smile, one local even noted, about the coveted Saint Agur Blue “you need to be on a short list to get it.” — The Camden Cottage, 39 Johns St
The Italian Food Project
Everything at this restaurant, from its open courtyard seating to the huge pizza oven and long communal tables is what you’d envision for a family venue. Except this isn’t necessarily a family venue, it’s more of an Italian restaurant that just happens to be all about he family.
From the onset, owners Alison and Joe Defrancesco’s families were involved, helping with both design and, of course, the work. The menu however was Joe’s doing and for him, it was about “respecting the produce” which to him means keeping things simple rather than over-complicating and reinventing things. His food embraces the Italian traditions of how sauces, wines, olive oil and salamis were all made at home and shared among the extended family. He even works with his gardener to plant season herbs in alignment with the lunar cycles.
Like any family, Joe and Alison know the importance of engaging the kids, so not only do they have the occasional kids cooking class, they’ve also starting giving every child a ball of dough when they arrive. They can play with or, if they like, ask for some sauce and cheese then take it up to the oven to be baked, explains Alison noting that simple things like that are just part of their approach
“The name The Italian Food Project came about as we consider this whole thing a project, because it’s constantly changing”, says Alison. “It’s constantly evolving as there is always room for improvements.” — 40 Elizabeth St
Village Lane Café and Wine Bar
When putting together one of the most exclusive wine lists in the Macarthur region, Village Lane Café and Wine Bar owner, John Tooby went global. Throughout his travels, not only did he manage to source some fine wines, be he also picked up a few souvenirs along the way like the grand French Chandelier that now hangs from the high ceiling in the bar, the American Oak that became a table top in the cafe and the recycled antique wooden wine barrels that now adorn the front counter.
For a number of years, the Village Lane Café has been a popular breakfast and lunch spot — not just for the courtyard location but also the impressive brunch menu overseen by executive chef James Nieuwendijk. However, now that the immense wine list is being introduced, he has the opportunity to present his true cooking passion, tapas and has already included mouth-watering dishes include pork belly sliders, slow cooked ribs, and to be truly international, large Canadian scallops. 8/180-186 Argyle St
Deli D’lish
Despite what some may say, sometimes, you can actually buy a dream.
For Christian and Meryl Lamacchia, their dream came about when a favourite lunch and coffee spot, Deli D’lish went up for sale.
“Christian and I loved the Deli and attended it regularly so when we discovered it was up for sale we took the leap of faith to create a new life for our family and we have never looked back,” Meryl said.
Since then, they have built on the Deli D’lish’s outstanding reputation, particularly with their always-in-demand sandwiches.
The hand carved leg ham might have something to do with their popularity, but then of course it could also be all the handmade pastries and sweets.
Guess you’ll have to find out for yourself.
The Capital Arcade, 15/85 Argyle St
Trattoria La Vigna
Gianni emigrated from Italy to Australia 20 years ago, but for the past seven years, he’s been spending his days in Tuscany.
Using aged timber beams, glazed tiles and rough stone, Gianni and his wife Silvana have turned a once neglected winery into a rustic Italian estate, where six varieties are produced and of course, some of which is used in specialty dishes.
The signature dishes of handmade gnocchi and slow-baked goat followed by a moist Tiramisu may epitomise the dining experience, particularly when seated by the brick fireplace in the colder months, but it’s events like the traditional Tomato Sauce Making day and Opera nights, that truly introduce people to Italian hospitality and if Gianni and Silvana have a say to a little bit of Italy itself.
3 Argyle St
Split Diner
You know you’re onto a good thing when you have royalty proclaiming that it’s “the best burger I’ve had in 20 years”.
While it may not have been said by the heir to the throne, it did come from the queen of horseracing royalty, Gai Waterhouse.
Split Diner owner, Nathan Hawkins says it’s the brioche buns that are part of the winning formula that lures people into this 50s themed American Diner, complete with pin-up girl artwork and vintage motorcycles.
However, there is also the bubblegum ice cream that brings in the after-school crowd while the real adventurous that go for the “Mac-n-Roe” — Macaroni and Cheese fries.
102 Argyle St
IN CAMDEN, YOU MUST TRY
R Coffee Co — Country Valley Yoghurt
If the true test of a cafe’s quality is measured by the number of caffeine-craving cyclists gathered outside on a Saturday morning, then R Coffee Co has developed cult status. It may also have something to do with cafe owner Ryan Tierney’s use of unrefined products including dairy from local Picton farm, Country Valley, whose yoghurt he offers with a paleo granola mix, berries and brightly coloured edible flowers from Mittagong. — Suite 7/100; 4/90-100 Argyle St
Amigo French Bakery — Vietnamese Prawn Rice Paper Rolls
For a light lunch of Vietnamese rice paper rolls forget the local takeaway as the best ones in town are made by the baker. At Amigo French Bakery, shop’s owner, Sai, makes the rolls with the traditional Vietnamese way with prawns, which he serves with either a spicy or mild dipping sauce. — Shop 10 Camden Arcade, 166 Argyle St
Haruki Japanese Fusions Restaurant — Huon Salmon with Wasabi and Soy Vinaigrette
Don’t be fooled by the unassuming facade, as behind the doors, chef SunGyu Jacob Lee, formerly of The Star’s Sokyo offers inventive Japanese dishes with international influences, such as the use of Mexican cinnamon powder on seared tuna. There’s also the traditional Japanese but if you are indeed feeling a bit adventurous, just ask chef’s Jacob for his personal favourites and your tastebuds will thank you. — Shop 20, 20 Murray St
Squeeze and Grind — Vego Bento
What opened as a juice joint five years ago has morphed into one of the coolest cafes around and owner Dean Letic has developed a selection that is sure to satisfy even the pickiest people at your table. Open for breakfast, lunch and a few nights a week for tapas, the menu is broken into two categories — “Healthy” and “Hungry”. Though don’t pass judgment on the lighter options as dishes like the Vego Bento, a breakfast version of a Bento Box with a fried egg, haloumi, avocado and toast could easily jump sides. — 2/3 180-186 Argyle St
Epicure Store Camden, Specialty Cheese & Food Ploughman’s lunch.
After you’ve perused the impressive range of gourmet candies and condiments — many of which are locally sourced — head outside to one of the rustic tables on the cottage’s veranda and order yourself something from the expectedly unique menu that features items from the shop. If you’re having a tough time choosing, try the Ploughman’s lunch with includes quite generous portions of their featured cheeses. Bring along a sauvignon blanc and you’re set for a delightful afternoon. — The Camden Cottage, 39 Johns St
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