Beloved Bavarian restaurant Stuyvesant’s House rises from the ashes
AFTER a devastating fire, Stuyvesant’s House, a bastion of business lunches and North Shore “old money”, has risen from the ashes with its legendary wine collection intact.
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IT WAS almost one year ago to the day that Rudi Dietz took the call telling him that his beloved restaurant Stuyvesant’s House, that bastion of business lunches and North Shore “old money”, had all been decimated by fire. Electrical fault apparently.
This temple of Bavarian food, which had managed to stay unsinged for 54 years prior, suffered losses to the tune of around $500,000, not counting the money paid to staff while they cooled their heels during the rebuild.
But one small mercy is that Dietz’s legendary wine collection, one that would make Dan Murphy himself cry into his claret, managed to escape with few casualties.
That was partly because the underground cellar copped the least damage and primarily because most of the collection (yes, all the Grange and the $15,000 Chateau Pétrus) is stored in an off-site warehouse, the location of which is a guarded secret.
No doubt the news came as a big relief for Dietz’s loyal regulars (which apparently include Channel Nine executives who have flocked here for years, presumably to come up with amazing ideas like Excess Baggage and Here Come The Habibs).
And so with nothing more than a small note on the website reading ‘Yes we’re open’, Stuyvesant’s House rose from the ashes last week, albeit with a little less traditional German decor and a few modern touches.
The staff are all but the same, including Dietz’s brother and head chef Max, who churns out quaint classics like mixed German sausages and veal schnitzel.
However, I was slightly alarmed when I jumped online to peek at the menu. Unfurling before me was a two-page opus that included oddities like brochette of prawns and steak Nero, a half free-range duckling and — wait for it — an Indonesian section with dishes like Oedang Goring (!!)
As Gordon Ramsay always says before calling someone a f…ing asshole, “less is more”. Thankfully, there is a condensed menu which I’m told is temporary but could easily suffice permanently.
A nice collection of German and traditional Australian dishes like rack of lamb and baked snapper as well as simple desserts (crème brûlée, chocolate fondant) come as relief after months of things like carrot air and tangerine granita on menus.
First up was a traditional little appetiser of Dutch veal and chicken butterballs ($3) — little deep-fried balls of mince — which were perfectly fine and went nicely with a black olive tapenade and German mustard.
Then a rich but nice combination of fat scallops with black pudding ($30) atop a syrupy bed of braised leeks and onions.
The snapper fillet ($40) was probably the standout, a big moist fillet smothered in a silky lemon butter sauce. There are, however, a handful of shucked oysters served in the sauce which is a bit out of context.
A simple prawn cocktail served with a wedge of lime and some scattered scallions made a great precursor to the heavier mains.
A sauteed veal medallion ($44), served medium rare and laid out on a bed on lentils and chanterelle mushrooms, was indeed that; heavy.
The creamy brandy sauce was poured with a bit of a heavy hand and might be better served on the side. The chargrilled beef fillet ($44) was better, though, with a few small potatoes and a drizzle of pepper sauce.
The food is solid, but obviously the main attraction is the wine, and whether you’re drinking a glass of 2009 Weingut Huber Malterer, a devastating chardonnay, or a glass of 1993 Penfolds Grange it’s hard to fault. But that’s only if you can get the cash together.
All meals are paid for and visits are unannounced.
STUYVESANT’S HOUSE
Address: 43 Alexander Rd, Crows Nest
Rating: 7.5/10
Phone: 02 94397155
Style Bavarian/Australian
Open Lunch Monday to Friday. Dinner Monday to Saturday
Highlight Tour of the cellar
Lowlight Dietz’s humour can delight or offend. Be warned
Like this, then try these
● Munich Brauhaus, The Rocks
● Una’s, Darlinghurst
● Tommy’s Beer Cafe, Glebe
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