Sydney Eat Street: Newtown may be a big foodie place but Enmore is just as good
SOME people may think Enmore is the poor cousin of its fabulous next-door neighbour Newtown. The truth is that Enmore is packed full of hidden delights.
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SOME people may think Enmore is the poor cousin of its fabulous next-door neighbour Newtown. But the truth is Enmore is packed full of hidden delights.
Saga
178 Enmore Rd
MAN cannot live on cake alone, though loyal followers of renowned pastry chef Andrew Bowden (aka Andy Bowdy) and his ginormous layered cakes may disagree.
Still, Andy and his partner Maddison Howes took a walk to the savoury side and opened up a neighbourhood cafe that, alongside the sweets, also offers breakfast and brunch dishes such as mushrooms on toast and New York-style sandwiches.
One thing is certain, whatever you order at the start, save room for the decadent desserts or pick up a mini cake — single serves of Andy’s signature creations including the “Karl”, a chocolate fudge cake with salted caramel, roasted peanuts, chocolate mousse, Snickers, chocolate cookie crumb, chocolate fudge drizzle, peanut crunch and torched meringue. Nice and simple, really.
Osteria Di Russo & Russo
158 Enmore Rd
IT wasn’t luck but hard work that saw Pino Russo find success in his adopted country of Australia.
Originally from Napoli, he started out with an Italian restaurant and a plan for his children to become “doctors, lawyers or accountants” (now the name of a signature cocktail).
His son Marco, however, followed in his father’s footsteps and wrangled Pino into joining him for a new venture, a modern take on old trattorias that would substitute large portions of rustic food for intricate share plates in a cosy setting that included bar dining.
The menu features classic Italian flavours but made with modern cooking techniques and an emphasis on local products such as the grilled market fish with coastal greens and lemon myrtle, and squid ink fregola, as well as dishes with Rangers Valley beef, Meredith goats cheese and desserts made with Emu Plains-based Zokoko chocolates.
Stix & Pita
3/216 Enmore Rd
CO-OWNER Elvis Korsovitis was taught to make pita bread by his grandmother, who said: “Bread is life and just like life you must show the proper respect”. Elvis says the pita, along with everything else on the menu, is “zealously made in house”.
Begin with your choice of meats such as pork belly or slow-cooked lamb or, for a vegetarian, there’s haloumi. Next come fillings, which they’ve named after Greek entities such as the Medusa — a combination of mayo, Greek coleslaw and hand-cut chips.
Cow and the Moon
181 Enmore Rd
WHEN it comes to clever concoctions, the sky’s the limit for award-winning gelato makers Cow And The Moon. They’ve even picked up a Gelato World Title for their affogato flavour, a creation that coffee-lover and co-owner Sam Crowl graciously tested in their “Gelato Lab”.
Their salted caramel has also garnered them national awards. It’s not all single scoops though as the gelato-base cakes like the Golden Sea, with layers of pistachio, pomegranate and black sesame, are also popular.
Queens Hotel
167 Enmore Rd
THIS 80-year-old hotel has had a right royal makeover.
Now a two-level food-centric venue, the jewel is undoubtedly Queen Chow, the ground-level eatery that features the tastes of Hong Kong street kitchens with a focus on Australian fare, including dishes such as the coveted Typhoon Shelter Crab, a deep-fried crab with garlic, chilli and black bean.
Upstairs you’ll find The Smelly Goat, where clever cocktails are served up.
Must try
Vietnamese pork roll
Great Aunty Three, 115 Enmore Rd
BANH Mi gets a fresh take using bread rolls made fresh daily. The standouts are the addition of crispy slices of green apple and generous amounts of pork crackling.
Avo toast
Black Market Roasters, 2/86 Enmore Rd
THE grilled sourdough with slices of avocado topped with dill, lemon, grape tomatoes and crunchy cubes of cucumber is a must — along with their smooth coffee.
Shakshuka
Shenkin Kitchen, 129 Enmore Rd
SERVED in a small black skillet, poached eggs are at the centre of this slow-cooked tomato, garlic and capsicum sauce, along with pita bread for dipping.
Soda ice cream floats
Doughbox Diner, 137 Enmore Rd
WAITRESSES in skater skirts serve up famous American food such as Coney Island hot dogs, their signature Crepe Cones and the A & W Root Beer floats.
Delight beans
Lat Dior African Eatery, 150 Enmore Rd
THIS casual eatery serves up succulent chicken, beef and lamb dishes, as well as many vegetarian options. And the crunchy green beans with celery sauce will delight even the staunchest carnivore.